Ok Folks, I've read everything here but I also tackeld my timing, all over again, before some of these messages came through.

I SEVERELY struggled to find on YouTube or any literature describing precisely how to adjust timing with vacuum advance. Everyone starts by saying removing the vacuum hose, but afterwards it gets vague.  Found one response in a forum where only 1 person described each step clearly and why.

So I rechecked TDC and it's nearly spot on, removed vacuum, found 0 advance (the car stalled). Started then with 10deg idle, refer to 2500rpm and gave it 34deg.

After installing vacuum, it's now in maybe the 50's. Is that normally!!!????  Seems high

Its functional at idle if you connect it to manifold vacuum.  There's always vacuum at the manifold vacuum outlet on the carb, or if its connected to a carb spacer or the manifold.  If the port is below the throttle blades; its got vacuum all the time.  In which case, yes, your reading would be considered normal. 

The other option is to connect it to timed or ported manifold vacuum, which is above the throttle blades.  There is only vacuum there once the blades open.  There's all kinds of theories about which is best.  Some say timed vacuum is only for emissions, etc.  In my experience its just another tuning tool.  Switch it around and see which way the engine likes it.  Mine is actually connected to the timed port.  It idles and runs better like that.

As far as tuning the vacuum advance, get the mehcanical advance curve sorted first.  I would dial the vacuum advance all the way back (least advance possible).  Once you're happy with the mechanical advance curve start adding vacuum advance in like 1/4 to 1/2 turn increments until the engine pings going up a steep hill in high gear.  Then back it off 1/2 turn and you're done. 

I think you need to limit your total mechanical advance to 36 - 38 degrees total.  You can do that by reducing initial timing or by using a bushing to limit mechanical advance.

As to whether your mechanical advance is coming in too soon... To answer that we would need to know at what RPM your mechanical advance is all in.

You have too much advance.  With aftermarket heads and reasonable compression you should never need ore than 36 degrees total timing.  You are changing too many variables at once.  Change either springs, or bushings.  When changing both you don't know what it was that had what affect.  Timing lead is a measure of inefficiency.  Stock, low compression engines will need a lot of spark lead.  Aftermarket heads and more compression need less.  I would start by returning to the bushing you started with.  Check total advance and at what RPM.  If its more than 36 you need to either reduce base timing or change bushings to reduce mechanical advance.  Then test drive and check for pings.  If it pings I would back off base timing in 2 degree increments until it stops.  If you get to less than 32 and it still pings try a stiffer set of advance springs.  At that point I would say its all in too soon.  It may take some adjusting, but you need to understand what each change does so you can continually improve the situation.

As in carb tuning, you wouldn't change jets, step up springs, and accelerator pump setting all at the same time.  You make one change, see how it responds and then go further, or backwards if it got worse. 

Also, is this kind of pitting or deteriaration of the rotor and cap normal, or is it a sign of something else electrically wrong?

Ok Perfect TKO thats how I did it after finding that one forum post on a different site....I all checks out perfectly...

NEWEST OBSERVATIONS which could use the expertise of you guys.....

St around 6000RPM, the car "falls on its -oh no I used a word I shouldn't have-" and what I mean by that is, pulls strong and great like always (to be entirely honest the power band feeling does feel less on the whole compared to prior ignition/carb settings) but at around 6000RPM it physically and literally drops off....you can feel a drastic drop in power...

This Never happened at all, prior to :  Reducing TOTAL VAC ADV with the new bushing set (i have a limit of 21deg right now) and my Spring Config is Lightest Silver and Blue!. 

prior to these changes the car literally never felt like it wanted to Stop Pulling!  all gears regardless or RPM she was a STRONG Force through and through, observed by many drivers....

given these details, would anyone know what the likely cause of this is from the changes made :
1)total vacadvance with the bushing is too low?
2)VAC Adv Spring Config?

the car has never been starved of fuel regardless of Jet Sizes or bowel setting (which havent changed). 

many thanks,
Jeff
 

MSD 8478 Distrib  6AL Box 

My Vac Adv is hooked up to the Carb Port, not the manifold....

I guess with this logic on Vacuum, the Limmiter Bushing is the culprit!?

incorrect tko.....Im am using the 21DEG Bushing in the MSD distrib.  which means it only allows an additional 21Deg max....I can swap out the bushing and the increments vary from 18deg right to 32 I believe....

my Limitter was not changed during any of this, therefor I know its not the culprit...but it is set to 7000....
the power drop off is not the same as when I used to hit my Limiter....I would describe the limiter was more of a Sputter, it would stay at and around the limited RPM, this drop is like a drastic power drop once said RPM is reached; the hood drops and all