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I would like some suggestions on monte carlo bars. Who, in your opinion, has the best quality original appearing one. I have seen some with the top holes punched for carriage bolts, that is not important in my case. I know that Scott Drake makes a reproduction but I have heard different comments as to the quality of some of their stuff. I am looking to purchase an original straight black bar that is robust enough that Shelby himself would have used it in production. Thank you in advance.-Brad
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Should have added that it is for a 66 FB.
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No direct experience with their Monte Carlo bars, but everything I've ever bought that was Dynacorn has been of exceptional quality.
Scott Drake, sadly, is very hit or miss today. Years ago it was a name only associated with the highest quality. Today it seems just another company desirous of profit over quality. Some of their stuff is just fine, other stuff not so much. Its become a buyer beware situation unfortunately.
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I always try to buy local, so I use Mustangs Plus. I've always had good results. Getting the right part is more important than getting the cheapest part, and I can see them face to face if need be.
Last edited by lowercasesteve (8/21/2018 12:14 PM)
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There's a lot to be said for that. Most of my suspension came from Mustangs Plus over 20+ years ago. The fact that they're still in business says a lot about them as a company. No complaints on any part I bought from them either, even 20+ years later.
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This is the adjustable one I bought through CJ. I really liked the look and it fit very well. My upper shock towers had drifted inward after 50+ years. I jacked the car up in the middle and let the suspension hang for about 4 days to let the metal sag back out. Then installed the adjustable. Once that was done I did another front end alignment.
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Definitely need to use carriage bolts rather than fender bolts or you will have dents in the bottom of the hood, two per side!
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BradH wrote:
I am looking to purchase an original straight black bar
There really isn't any "magic" involved with the Monte Carlo....other than it works wonders for how these old Mustangs handle/steer. It is basically a piece of pipe that spreads/stiffens the shock towers to mak'em work like they should.
More than likely.....they are ALL made by the same 9 year old in rural China!
I like Mustangs Unlimited because I have been to their store in person a couple of times. They are all pretty much the same... selling the same stuff.
This is a basic/standard item they all carry. Get what's cheapest and closest to you.
6sally6
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A buck fiddy-five for a Monte Carlo bar from CJ's? Ouch! I don't have near half of what CJ's gets for it in mine. I bought a cheap one years ago from NPD, but the holes didn't line up. So I built my own using BB's time and money theory.
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NPD has one for $21.25...that almost qualifies as a typo. Must be a pre-tariff item. The polished stainless straight bar is $96.75.
I know they list varying quality export braces. Some say they have thicker steel “like the originals” which means the thinner ones are junk. I don’t see any thicker or thinner versions of Monte Carlo bars though.
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Muzz 66 wrote:
NPD has one for $21.25...that almost qualifies as a typo. Must be a pre-tariff item. The polished stainless straight bar is $96.75.
I know they list varying quality export braces. Some say they have thicker steel “like the originals” which means the thinner ones are junk. I don’t see any thicker or thinner versions of Monte Carlo bars though.
If the thickness difference is in the tubing wall thickness they'd likely never know. Not saying for sure that's the difference, but that's what I'd suspect.
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RPM,
I really like your home-built bar.
I've never installed one because I've always feared it would get in my way while trying to work on the engine, but the pins for quick removal on your bar make that a non-issue.
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I made my own, see page 4"Pictures and History " page. I used instructions from JamesW's page. Adjustable rods, him joints and some scrap 1/4" aluminum plate. Less than $100 for all.
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Michael H. wrote:
RPM,
I really like your home-built bar.
I've never installed one because I've always feared it would get in my way while trying to work on the engine, but the pins for quick removal on your bar make that a non-issue.
Thanks Michael. The pins make removal a snap, and I wouldn't do it any other way. I lowered the motor for the shaker to fit the hood, (which only caused about a hundred other things to be changed) which allowed mine to go over the distributor cap. One simple bend in the middle could be made to allow the bar to go around the air filter or distributor. I dislike the big U bend bars, and spent a lot of time getting mine to fit.
If if if, you have a straight bar, I don't think a thin wall tube will matter, as in straight compression it won't distort much until other parts fail.
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Michael H. wrote:
RPM,
I really like your home-built bar.
I've never installed one because I've always feared it would get in my way while trying to work on the engine, but the pins for quick removal on your bar make that a non-issue.
Only time it got in the way I was changing valve springs, It was only on one cylinder. I find it useful to brace myself while working under the hood. I don't know what I would do if it weren't there, I automatically reach for it
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Grabber Blu wrote:
Michael H. wrote:
RPM,
I really like your home-built bar.
I've never installed one because I've always feared it would get in my way while trying to work on the engine, but the pins for quick removal on your bar make that a non-issue.Only time it got in the way I was changing valve springs, It was only on one cylinder. I find it useful to brace myself while working under the hood. I don't know what I would do if it weren't there, I automatically reach for it
Absolutely G Blu. It makes a heck of a lean on.
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^^^^ X-3^^^^
Doesn't "really" get in my way. And its a straight one.
6sal6
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I bought a straight bar from CJ. It was such a piece of sh*t. The brackets on both sides were welded on different and wrong angles. I think the only way it would have fit is if my car was in a major wreck and never repaired. Bought one from Tony Branda, no issues
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Tom,
Just out of curiosity which brand straight bar did you buy from CJ pony parts that was crap. I went ahead and ordered a Dynacorn one to try. I'm hoping you're not going to tell me that it was one of theirs. I checked out the CJ catalog and it appears that they have several available. -Brad
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Lucky you going to Monte Carlo : Please let us know how it all goes when you?re back. Enjoy the show
xx
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What is the purpose for the Monte Carlo bar?
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What is the purpose for the Monte Carlo bar?
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It helps to stabilize the tops of the shock towers under hard cornering by trying them together. Coupled with the export brace it triangulates the shock towers, making them more rigid, reducing chassis flex, and making handling more precise and predictable. Coupled with subframe connectors it will also mean that you won't need as stiff a spring to get the same, or even better handling. The stiffer the chassis the more the spring can just do its job, which is keeping the tire in contact with the pavement. When the chassis flexes the springs must be stiffer to in effect force the tire into the pavement as the chassis tries to move away from it.
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I have a curved bar I like the look but with a 351w in a 65 things are tight, I do like the idea of a removable bar. sound like another project to add to the list
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After installing a one piece export brace, the monte carlo bar isnt really needed unless your doing some serious racing but they do look kool! . I have a 67 390 car, and a 68 289 with ac. Had them for over 45 yrs now. In the big block car the bar interferes with valve cover removal, and in the 289 the straight bar is right over the distributor, i know they have a curved bar butvthe straight bar looks better to me. There have been many tests and comparisons over the years, if your just driving normal driving, the one piece export brace is all you realky need.
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