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I picked up some hipo manifolds to put on the 5.0 for the 66 coupe. The mani's came with some bolt keepers. Are those keepers for the show cars, or are they worth the effort to install? The engine is in the car, and not on a stand. I figured I would just torque them properly, and recheck torque after a few warm up & cool down cycles and go from there.
Would a guy use anti sieze on the header bolts? Stock 5.0 cast heads....
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TimC wrote:
I picked up some hipo manifolds to put on the 5.0 for the 66 coupe. The mani's came with some bolt keepers. Are those keepers for the show cars, or are they worth the effort to install? The engine is in the car, and not on a stand. I figured I would just torque them properly, and recheck torque after a few warm up & cool down cycles and go from there.
Would a guy use anti sieze on the header bolts? Stock 5.0 cast heads....
Use the bolt keepers after a retorque...Anti seize is fine...great for sparkplugs too...jj
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Those keepers work great, but so do lockwashers, and the washers do not require destructive techniques to remove if you ever want to remove or just retighten the bolts.
Anti-seize is alwawys a good idea on bolts holding exhaust components, but is not required.
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I used bolts and lock washers torqued to factory spec. No leaks or other issues at 16k.
Before you bolt them on may I recommend a bead blast job followd with a coat of POR-15 exhaust paint. Mine still looks great...best high temp stuff I ever used.
BB
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Thanks, all
BB.... They have been blasted, and ceramic coated. I need to have some down pipes custom made to connect the mani's to my stainless magnaflow exhaust kit, and I plan to use the POR 15 exhaust paint on those pieces, after the O2 bungs are welded in, unless the exhaust shop can make me a deal on stainless pipes.
I did the POR 15 treatment on the engine. It looks great, but it hasnt been fired up yet.....
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O2 bungs? You must be another one of us "computer boyz".
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Bullet Bob wrote:
O2 bungs? You must be another one of us "computer boyz".
Yep! If it's good enuf for NASCAR.....and.... the only thing I have always failed at is carb's. Too many small parts, amd adjustments, or something. I found an 86 Mustang GT a few years back and stripped it of anything of value. It had met a deer at a high rate of speed. I couldnt drive it, but it ran well with a garden hose in the lower water pump inlet. Best $300 I have spent, so far, on this journey.... Oh yeah, got $80 back from the crusher, too. I'm keeping the SD setup, and modified the harness myself. All's well at this point, but I'm sure I'll be asking a lotta questions once I connect a battery.
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TimC wrote:
Bullet Bob wrote:
O2 bungs? You must be another one of us "computer boyz".
Yep! If it's good enuf for NASCAR.....and.... the only thing I have always failed at is carb's. Too many small parts, amd adjustments, or something. I found an 86 Mustang GT a few years back and stripped it of anything of value. It had met a deer at a high rate of speed. I couldnt drive it, but it ran well with a garden hose in the lower water pump inlet. Best $300 I have spent, so far, on this journey.... Oh yeah, got $80 back from the crusher, too. I'm keeping the SD setup, and modified the harness myself. All's well at this point, but I'm sure I'll be asking a lotta questions once I connect a battery.
Run the self-test before you attempt to fire it up...that'll tell you a lot. Mine had me scratching my head as it reported a problem with the fuel pump circuit. Then it hit me that...duh...I had deliberately left the FP disconnected.
I do hope you found a clean way to install the MIL(check engine lite). I've heard of many guys that do not install it butt (TS&T) to me that's like leaving out the Oil or Temp gauge.
I'm sure you know that you can dump codes without having a reader. Takes a bit of practice but you can read the MIL flashes to get the codes. See the RJM website for the instructions on how to do this or holler and I can email them.
Best of luck, Tim. I'll bet you are very happy with the outcome.
BB
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