| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
Engine been running GREAT for months now (since Nov 2017) , when carb was rebuilt
Very nice , no over hearing nothing odd . Smooth..
Out for a drive one day before bash, floor it , and the engine wants to all of a sudden fall flat. I somehow get it to 50 mph, turn off the engine, and check #1 plug, no lean condition
Since then, no idle, it’s backfiring , and overheating .
Trying to start it would go boom out of carb. Advanced it , and it would have exhaust gases come out of carb
Went to bash without car, came home .. checked all hoses for vacuum hoses were fine . No leaks .
Took out all plugs and distributor .
Distributor roll pins are all good , no slip in gear
Compression test ::155 avg all cylinders
Restabbed at “0”
Tried to start and here is the video. No change
Watch till the end
Stumped!
Offline
PM sent
Offline
Have you checked to see if timing chain didn't jump, pull number one plug go to top dead center compression stroke and see that rotor in dist. lines up to number one cylinder.
Offline
I restabbed the distributor couple days ago in hopes to resolve this , so I don’t think I can check that cause it’ll be false .
How would you check tdc ..? When I restabbed it, all plugs were out, I cranked and felt for the puff of compression , the timing marks were under the Pinter , so manually moved the engine to “0” at crank and put down the dist pointing at #1
If timing chain jumped , means can timjng was off .. wouldn’t the compression suffer?
Offline
so if you were on compression stroke and your pointer was on zero and dist was set back to number one I guess chain didn't jump, did you check to see if plug wires are in correct order always look for simple things first.
Offline
now I do not know where the valves were at .. AT 0 , or where the piston was at.. I know that I felt puff, I backed the engine manually to 0 and put distributor in ..
Offline
Gaba wrote:
now I do not know where the valves were at .. AT 0 , or where the piston was at.. I know that I felt puff, I backed the engine manually to 0 and put distributor in ..
hi , you can remove the valve cover and chech the nr 1 piston valve , rockers and pushrod in which position are , when you are manually cranking .
when the exaust valve is coming up , you are close to tdc and look at mark on damper
Offline
Also look inside dist. for crack between post or rotor for crack, if you were getting compression on number one cylinder that would be what your looking for to line up pointer to 0
Offline
Old gas tank - - - - clogged fuel filter?
Offline
no cracks
Offline
Rudi wrote:
Old gas tank - - - - clogged fuel filter?
gas tank 5 years old .. and fuel filter checked clean.. I have fuel flow , dont know the pressure but I have fuel flow
Last edited by Gaba (9/25/2018 1:15 PM)
Offline
Really sounds like a timing issue. I'm with Alessandro on pulling the valve cover. Is it a flat tappet cam? Maybe it went flat on you. What heads/rockers?
Offline
TKOPerformance wrote:
Really sounds like a timing issue. I'm with Alessandro on pulling the valve cover. Is it a flat tappet cam? Maybe it went flat on you. What heads/rockers?
what heads.. ? 302 heads LOL ... no idea what kind. what rocker again sir.. sadly No idea.. STOCK kind is all I know.
the cam specs I have written somewhere from when I got it measured. but thats it.
Offline
Absolutely should pull a valve cover then. What I'm getting. at is what's holding. the rockers down? I've seen pedestal mount rockers break the pedestal bolt. I've seen pressed in studs pull out. I've yet to see a screw in stud fail, but anything's possible. A bent pushrod is also a possibility.
It sounds like the distributor is good, the timing. chain is good, yet there's still a timing issue. That pretty much. leaves something in the valvetrain being amiss. I think I'd be tempted to check TDC with. a piston stop just to be sure the chain was good and/or that the balancer and pointer were correctly matched.
Offline
TKOPerformance wrote:
Absolutely should pull a valve cover then. What I'm getting. at is what's holding. the rockers down? I've seen pedestal mount rockers break the pedestal bolt. I've seen pressed in studs pull out. I've yet to see a screw in stud fail, but anything's possible. A bent pushrod is also a possibility.
It sounds like the distributor is good, the timing. chain is good, yet there's still a timing issue. That pretty much. leaves something in the valvetrain being amiss. I think I'd be tempted to check TDC with. a piston stop just to be sure the chain was good and/or that the balancer and pointer were correctly matched.
Wouldn’t a mechanical timing change cost compression? Just asking not questioning your knowledge
Could you lead me to a piston stop that works on my motor ? (‘69 302)
Also the balancer has a key that aligns it on the crank and only goes on one way.
Bent pushrod could have happened (has happened before) I’ll pull the covers , but usually with that came tons of noise .. I’ll post what I find next
Do tell if I would loose compression if my mechanical valve timing is off my any chance..?
Offline
One thing I know is, it will kick back through the carb when the one exhaust valve begin to not open completely for what every reason. It gets worst trying to feed it more gas.
Offline
I also suggested prior to the post to pull passenger valve cover to see if timing events are happening at the right time.
Maybe after EVERYONE ELSE suggested the same thing, you can try that !!!
Offline
I haven’t touched the car at all since we talked Steve !!! Lol why you gotta be like that!!
I just posted so everyone could go through it with me :D
Offline
Gaba wrote:
I haven’t touched the car at all since we talked Steve !!! Lol why you gotta be like that!!
![]()
I just posted so everyone could go through it with me :D
Hi gaba ,
if you havent touch the car and before was running there are few things involved Gas ( holley float level , or too much or too low gas sending pressure , something clogged or some else)
Or ( very probably ) something went wrong on distributor insertion .
I have turn 180 degrees many times before understand the exact point .
I made wet the spark plug many times trying to run and this wont help you in this moment.
You need to be sure to start with piston nr 1 tdc , and the easyest solution is to see from heads which position is exaust valve .
when you will be sure about it , put your eyes on spark plug.
Offline
1.) A mechanical timing. change wouldn't necessarily cause a loss of compression. If the. compression is being built at the wrong time based on when the mixture is supposed to be lit you're still going to have issues. For example, if its trying to light when the piston is say 40 degrees away from TDC.
2.) I built my own piston stop from an old spark plug and a bolt.
3.) The balancer only goes on one way, but with no details known about the engine the question is whether or not the balancer and/or timing pointer are correct for each. other. Ford used three different locations to read timing. on the small block (2, 10, and 11 o'clock). The pointer and balancer must be matched or you are not really reading. TDC. With low compression these engines will run remarkably well, even with the. timing 40-60 degrees off. I've seen plenty of 5.0s fitted with early timing. covers and guys having no end of issues because they're trying. to read an 11 o'clock balancer with a 2 o'clock pointer.
Offline
Do you have another ignition coil that you could try?
I would start by simple...
What ignition system do you have ?
Could be capacitor also.
Offline
checked coil its good .. hot spark!!
msd ignition system
will be getting the valve cover off soon to see wassup
Offline
well opened up the valve covers yesterday "hoping" to find a bent push rod or a rocker off the valve stem ( happened before twice) , or anything obvious.. that was a negative . i should be happy but I am not LOL cause this is a gremlin.. LOL
Now that the valve covers are off .. I will figure out true TDC on the piston first, mark it, then see if at TDC both valves are closed and not opening prematrely or too late..
Also I somehow will check if all the valves are moving up and down and none is barely moving (should I crank the motor with the starter for that..? or hand? cranking with a starter may make a bit of an oily mess .... right?
Offline
The shiny nut and different colored rocker was replaced by me couple years ago, when the rocker slipped off and bent the pushrod causing a loud banging inside the valve covers and backfires
Was “hoping” for that even though there wasn’t a loud noise from the motor lol
Anyway.. checked the other side too. It’s just the same looks perfect
Last edited by Gaba (9/27/2018 9:11 AM)
Offline
If you have an old valve cover ... chop the top out of it and use it to control the oil splash.
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |