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This picture of RPM’s battery in the trunk
Reminded me of what we saw at the recent Bash: the red Shelby clone had a battery relocated to the trunk, no battery box like RPM’s. The voltage regulator on the Shelby clone was malfunctioning and grossly overcharging the battery. The battery was so hot you couldn’t put your hand on it. So hot that the battery electrolyte boiled. The crowd standing in front of the car could smell the sulfuric acid being vented by the battery in the trunk. That car is going to have some serious corrosion problems from those acid vapors. The way our first generation Mustangs are built, the trunk is not really separated from the passenger compartment (unless you have done some serious modifications to the trunk partition and fastbacks don’t really have a trunk partition). That is why you can smell gas vapors if the rubber sleeve connecting the gas cap and gas tank is cracked and leaking.
For those of you that feel the need to install a battery in the trunk there is a best method to do so: install a sealed bettery box with a vent line to outside the body of the car. The battery box shown in the picture above looks good, but it does not look to be the sealed type. If you are concerned about overheating the battery, then install two vents, an intake and an exhaust perhaps with a small fan and a temp switch if you want more complexity.
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I have an AGM Optima battery, and from what I've read they don't emit vapors. But... I've been wrong before. And you are correct, it's not a sealed box.
Last edited by rpm (10/11/2018 10:28 PM)
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We have an AGM in our airplane. It doesn't emit very much vapors. Although the technology is different it is easier to think of it as an over grown flashlight battery. It won't leak unless it it way over charged. It will get hot and turn into a big ball. Ignore it and it will explode and emit acid all over the place. The advantage for an airplane is that it doesn't leak and can be stored in an open container. The other is it is very light at about half the weight and size compared to other batteries of it's same capacity. There are other benefits to it except that it needs a special battery charger if it gets low on charge and also to keep it from over charging.
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Those AGM batteries can still emit vapors. Sanctioning bodies typically do not require them to be in a box, but I've had one go tits up on me and the sulfur stink was unmistakable. This was in my '86 IROC, with the battery in the hatch well area, which is essentially part of the passengers compartment. Not sure exactly what happened, but it also got very hot. Bad deal all around. I considered moving my '67s battery to the trunk, but decided not to in the end. Two amps and a sub fill the trunk instead. Pretty sure it'll stay that way.
I think I saw a hack online about how to charge AGM batteries with a regular charger.
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HudginJ3 wrote:
We have an AGM in our airplane. It doesn't emit very much vapors. Although the technology is different it is easier to think of it as an over grown flashlight battery. It won't leak unless it it way over charged. It will get hot and turn into a big ball. Ignore it and it will explode and emit acid all over the place. The advantage for an airplane is that it doesn't leak and can be stored in an open container. The other is it is very light at about half the weight and size compared to other batteries of it's same capacity. There are other benefits to it except that it needs a special battery charger if it gets low on charge and also to keep it from over charging.
I have to agree with HudginJ3. I also run a AGM battery in my plane. I have never had a problem with outgassing. With that said I had and older battery out of my airplane in my shop and hooked it up to a "Mondern" battery charger. I don't know what went wrong but the batter swelled in size and stunk of acid. The moral of the story is that even AGM and sealed batteries can over pressure the valves.
All batteries IMHO, should be encased in a vented case if inside the passenger compartment. Our trunks are passenger compartment.
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This Optima has been in my car for over ten years on trips from my home in Canada to places like Lincoln NB, Savannah GA, Indianapolis IN, Nashville, Myrtle Beach, and many, many other places in the US and Canada too numerous to mention.
There have never been any issues with it as is and has been used with a stock and 3-g alternators.
At home I charge it with a 50 year old 15 amp charger off season. I do intend on getting one of Optima's chargers for extended unatended winter lay ups.
I cant see why any one would have trouble doing the same.
Trunk mount
Starter cable
Alternator cable
Last edited by Rudi (10/12/2018 9:21 PM)
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I'm running a Lithium battery. I was going to relocate my lead acid battery to the trunk similar to what Shelby did with the 65 GT-350 and like I did on my 68 Cougar. After considering all of the details, the weight of the welding wire, the overall weight of the battery is still there albeit it's in a different spot, and the always existing potential for a catastrophic electrical short. I decided on the lithium battery. It's not for everyone. It's very expensive, but it spins the engine over like a top with a slightly higher voltage to the starter and it allows me to keep the battery in the stock location. The battery is only a little over 6 lbs and it is the size of a garden tractor battery. I had to make some adjustments to the mounting tray to mount the smaller battery box and after having the trunk mount battery explode in my Sunbeam Tiger, I decided to make a smaller battery box and use it there as well. It only takes 5 minutes or so to switch it between the two vehicles and I always bring it inside during the winter. Something to think about, it works for me. But then my cars are toys and not daily drivers.-Brad
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BradH wrote:
I'm running a Lithium battery. I was going to relocate my lead acid battery to the trunk similar to what Shelby did with the 65 GT-350 and like I did on my 68 Cougar. After considering all of the details, the weight of the welding wire, the overall weight of the battery is still there albeit it's in a different spot, and the always existing potential for a catastrophic electrical short. I decided on the lithium battery. It's not for everyone. It's very expensive, but it spins the engine over like a top with a slightly higher voltage to the starter and it allows me to keep the battery in the stock location. The battery is only a little over 6 lbs and it is the size of a garden tractor battery. I had to make some adjustments to the mounting tray to mount the smaller battery box and after having the trunk mount battery explode in my Sunbeam Tiger, I decided to make a smaller battery box and use it there as well. It only takes 5 minutes or so to switch it between the two vehicles and I always bring it inside during the winter. Something to think about, it works for me. But then my cars are toys and not daily drivers.-Brad
Now I'm intrigued. Can I get some details on the lithium battery you run?
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Lithium batteries are again smaller and lighter than AGM batteries and again another safety concern.
Here is a site for use of the battery in experimental airplanes. They are pretty straight forward about what could happen to it and how to maintain it. They are certified to be used in airliners and helicopters.
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I purchased a Braille GU1-R battery and the recommended charger sku# 1232L. It is not one of the 16 volt units. It is a 12 volt unit. I don't see the exact one listed on their web site any more but there are equivalent ones listed.
www.braillebattery.com/index.php/braille/product_series/green_lite
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It appears that the Earthx Batteries are similar and potentially cheaper. Well worth a look.-Brad
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I remember the clone with the fried battery .... he wasn't amused when I told him the regulator in his GM one wire was the cause .... could'a cooked an egg on the alt.
I haven't had a lot of luck with the optimas, they don't like going flat, and I've managed to cook one with a CTEK charger.
This is mine all wired in.
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There are rules to be followed with the lithiums as well. You can't let them ever go below a certain voltage, they become very dangerous at that point. I believe they told me to never put the charger on it if it ever read less than 8 volts, and that I was to send it back to them for possible rebuilding. I also had to be sure to never allow more than 14.4 volts or thereabouts from the charging circuit so I needed to pick a proper voltage regulator. All worth it in my opinion, I could not believe how fast it spun the engine over the first time I hit the key.-Brad
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