So these symptoms would be normal? (the primaries not snuffing out the car and the mixtures not functioning at all?).
if so, why? 

shouldnt the carb "work" only not work well cause of too much air or fuel?  (meaning still function and be able to try and tune it as they would typically, only never to run well)

M1Mustang69 wrote:

So these symptoms would be normal? (the primaries not snuffing out the car and the mixtures not functioning at all?).
if so, why? 

shouldnt the carb "work" only not work well cause of too much air or fuel?  (meaning still function and be able to try and tune it as they would typically, only never to run well)

My experience with holley was total fail so i am the last one that can give suggestions .
when i was trying this carb my car was running rough , stalling, and boggin .
Changing main jets to lean it was not enough because i need to change more other parts like bleeders and power valve and metering plate . You can lean a big carburator but you can not modified a 600 and make it run like a 390
When i was saying that the car drown , was exacly that .  too much gas  will flush the engine
If you have high idle when hot maybe you have some air leaks in 
My bad i cant help you much more
 

my 600 holley vaccum secondary carb has full effect of every needle. I have a 302 with a a hipo cam in it. The carb is only running primaries at idle , nothing out of the secondary circuit. Screwing in or out on either side of the carb caused the engine to make a significant change in idle. I am no expert on carbs but I have been told before that even with vaccum secondaries 600 is too big. 6 years in and its fine

yes with secondaries open , it is too big. IF i am going for peak power , it is too rich.. but idling around the town, or puttering 60 -70 on the highway its not.

you need to rebuild this carb or have someone who knows how to rebuild properly do it for you

many on this forum (not me ) are great at them, and may be willing to help if you ask them :D

Last edited by Gaba (10/16/2018 10:22 AM)

sorry forgot to answer:

stock fuel pump (New)
6.5 PV
64 Jets
100% stock 289 motor

 

Can I not lean it out with the Jets? 

or will a 600 Always pull too much fuel???


update now is :

62Jets.....Car Runs, alright...Under load is strong. to be truthful doesnt feel much different from the 2bbl.....
Mixtures still do not work and I Dont Think Secondaries (Vacuum) are opening.  Why would That Happen?

Gotchya....nice Feedback TKO, thanks...

I just did the paper clip test, secondaries are definitely not Opening....not sure if its due to vacuum or bad diaphragm (i can hear it make that air suction noise when I turn them manually)

either way doesnt look like its going to work....S*&%$Y

Thanks you Sally6.....I mean, Ive done an intake job enough times, I dont think it is sucking air from somewhere else....New Gaskets used, liquid gasket on both faces (nice even thin coat on both surfaces), new Carb Gasket.....I cant imagine of where it could be robbing air from....Tried to working PV (first the 6.5 and now 4.5) performance did not change.....Never a BACKFIRE.....

is there anything that could be faulty with the CARB itself for the Mixture Screws to not work, or does it simply translate to Vacuum Leak?  (both mixtures INCREASE idle when bottomed out!)

regards,
Jeff
 

Sorry if you've already covered this, but could your float level be set too high causing it to flood?

M1Mustang69

Yes, a 600 cfm Holley should work.

No, it will not work optimally.

A 600 cfm with vacuum secondaries on a stock 289 will open the secondaries very late (full throttle, high rpm).

Your description of the way the carb works (or doesn’t work), makes me think there are several internal passages plugged up. From the way that carb looks, I wouldn’t be surprised if it was removed from a junkyard car just before selling it to you. If it had been “rebuilt”, you wouldn’t have had to do the things you described.

My advise is to buy the correct total rebuild kit for that carb and a big bucket of carb dip. Tear the carb completely apart, soak it overnight, then check to make sure all the passages are open with a syringe of carb dip and low pressure air. If not, soak and retest untill clear. Rebuild per kit instructions.

What is the list number?  Some Holleys are “reverse idle” and the idlenmixture screws get richer as they are turned clockwise.
A 600 can work well on a 289. Just alot of tweaking and it will never be optimum on a stocker.

Used Holleys are alwsys a crapshoot. If they worked right, they wiuld still be on someone’s engine.

M1Mustang69 wrote:

Horman, Thank You very much....day by day piece by piece I was doing more and more, cleaning included....with carb cleaner spray and a compressor.  Things did improve, but not all.....

Im officially giving up.  The Bleeders Function Literally the OPPOSITE as they should..........In increases Idle rendering the idle screw useless when its backed off, and OUT stalls it.....just did my last attempt, I give up....(not to mention cold start choke closed it wont stay running, bogs down and dies).

600 is too much and with the amount of time Ive lost, i decided to start over....Grabbing a 450 Autolite an hour away from home and going to Do as You said Hornman and start over with that.....

Does Everyone agree a 450 Autolite is the way to go?

i agree and these are mine jets 47  and 56  ( secondaries)  6,5  pv   ( now you have a reference point to start with).
with a rebuild kit i believe you will run good . I will be happy to hear from you when you will try the autolite 
ciao !

One big problem could be damage to the carb from sitting with ethanol blended fuel in it.  The last Holley I tore apart to rebuild before selling was damaged beyond repair and I ended up junking it.  I tried everything to clean it, etc., but the castings had deteriorated and I knew it was just never going to be right and I'm not the type to sell something to someone knowing its not going to be right.