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1966 Mustang, 1988 5.0 HO, T5z
I'm doing a rear drum to disc brake conversion. Finally got the spacing on the caliper mounting correct (I think). The pad on the outside of the caliper is just barely touching the rotor. The pad on the back side of the rotor, the one that is engaged by the piston, has about a 1/16 -1/8" space between the pad and the rotor. Is this normal? When the pads are installed in the caliper, should they be touching the rotor?
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Not if the piston(s) is fully compressed into the caliper. The first time you hit the brake pedal all that slack gets taken up and the piston(s) touches the pads to the rotor. Disc brakes have the pads in light contact with the rotors at all time, because the piston moves out of the caliper as the pads wear to take up the slack (why the fluid in your master cylinder drops as the pads wear). Drum brakes worked the same way, but needed the self adjusting mechanism in addition to the wheel cylinder to accomplish the same thing.
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Ok, the piston is fully depressed in the caliper as I haven't bleed the brake system and and I had to compress it to install the pads. The kit comes w/ spacers to get the calipers correctly placed over the rotors but it's a trial and error process and I have to assemble and disassemble the whole damn thing just to test the fit. It's a PITA. I'm thinking once the brake lines are connected and the piston has any pressure that little slop on the inside pad will get cleaned up.
I hate this crap, but I love it all at the same time.
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Every retrofit rear brake kit I've ever installed has been like that, except for one where it came with no way to adjust it and I ended up having to have the mounting pads on the caliper mounts milled to get proper fitment. So the spacer deal seems kind of Mickey Mouse, but trust me, its better than the alternative.
And yes, once there's pressure in the system the caliper should self center.
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You need to exercise the parking brake lever repeatedly so the caliper’s internal adjustment will move the inner pad up to the rotor. Usually four or five actuations will do the trick. Keep actuating until it will no longer adjust. I use vise grips attached to the lever so I can actuate it manually while setting up the brakes. That is why it is important that you hook up the parking brake and use it regularly.
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MS wrote:
You need to exercise the parking brake lever repeatedly so the caliper’s internal adjustment will move the inner pad up to the rotor. Usually four or five actuations will do the trick. Keep actuating until it will no longer adjust. I use vise grips attached to the lever so I can actuate it manually while setting up the brakes. That is why it is important that you hook up the parking brake and use it regularly.
Shouldn't that only be done once the brakes are bled? My understanding was that adjusting the parking brake prior to the system being bled could lead to the brakes dragging or worse.
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That is not the case. The hydraulic part of the caliper is totally separate from the lever action of the parking brake. It is built in that they will not adjust tighter than they need to be. There is always some space left. In other words, you cannot ratchet them down tight where the rotor would no longer turn once the lever is released.
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A write up I read was very clear to adjust the e-brake THEN bleed.
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TremendousWand wrote:
1966 Mustang, 1988 5.0 HO, T5z
I'm doing a rear drum to disc brake conversion.
Just so folks know, this is the Caddy Eldo rear disc brake conversion from your other thread, correct?
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Right
79-80 Eldorado caliper.
It makes no difference when you do it, just do it.
The hydraulics and mechanical parts function in their own regard.
That said, you can follow whatever you have read and still get the same result. Just use the parking brake to adjust the inner pads out to the rotor.
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MS wrote:
...Just use the parking brake to adjust the inner pads out to the rotor.
Wish the summit racing instructions would have told me that. I went out and bought different size spacers and was even going to get the included spacers machined down trying to get the pads correctly positioned on the rotor. Seems like a much easier process than it appeared initially. Just judging by the amount of videos and discussions on adjusting the ebrakes I'm bracing my self for a frustrating Saturday. I deserve some of the blame for not doing more homework. The front disc conversion was pretty straight forward. I assumed the assumed it would be the same. Live and learn.
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