| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
Offline
Ok I will give as many details as I can by memory and knowledge!
289 ALL ORIGINAL and never rebuilt Motor! Approx. 150,000m.....
New Plugs, Cap, Rotor, Condensor and points.
New Wires and Coil
New Fuel Pump
New Alternator and 4bbl AL intake with Holley Economaster Carb
New Vac lines everywhere (snuff the carb engine dies within 2-3 sconds)
Idle is at 650 give or take....Vac reads 17-18 (bounces)
ISSUE:
before intake job car had a Sputter! mild like sputter, intermittent but Now, the SPUTTER is pronounced and much more Violent....I tried to notice a pattern and can not.....When the sputter Occurs, you feel it throughout the Car and it Feels like a MOMENTARY "shut-off" Sounds radical but its the best way I can describe it! almost as if fuel instantly Stopped, 10mil/sec re-flowed....or like spark quit, then reshot!
ONLY AT IDLE OR LOWER RPM (max900-1200) and Mostly when In N or Park!?
While Driving, nothing....no hesitation or performance issue, STRONG at higher rpm.....
ANYTHING???? im lost
regards,
Jeff
Online!
Some items to check:
Carburetor float level - verify correct level
Idle mixture screws - make small adjustments to see if anything changes.
Idle passages in carb may need cleaning. You can try spraying cleaner into passages but best bet may be to rebuild it.
Check and verify ignition timing is correct, at idle and watch to verify it advances when RPM is raised.
Check the dwell of the distributor, w/150k miles the cam that the points ride on in the distributor may be worn and need to be replaced. Note that this usually causes missing at higher RPM, but would be good to verify.
I doubt the fuel pump is a problem, they tend to either work, or not.
Offline
1 st float level
2 nd move from pointer to electronic ( just the basic)
3 rd check carb and refurbish
4 rt check air leaks from intake
5 th refer on spark plug state (maybe are drawning in gasoline )
Seems the same footprints on the snow ... you are doing the same path and my car simpthoms ended when i redone carb and make it lean , set a proper timing , moved to pertonix pick ups .
How many cfm ?
Offline
carb was brand new in the box 3 weeks ago. 450cfm rating, double pumper.
keep in mind folks this only occurs violently in Neutral and Park, and much more subtle in gear at a stop......
higher rpm performance is perfect.....
Offline
You didn’t mention it is a automatic. Check vac line to modulator and modulator itself. I had that same problem on a newer Ford and it was the vac line to the trans.
Offline
Look at the coil.......I had one where fire was jumping across ...intermittently.
My money is on something in ignition.
6s6
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |