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f:0
I've still not narrowed down my heating issue, and I have not had a mechanic look at it either. My current radiator with the shroud and the mechanical fan did the job for 10yrs and was used when I bought it. The car never overheats when driving, but almost always boils over after I've stopped the car (unless it burned off the water and then it just steams like a teapot). I replaced some really nasty looking spark plugs, but couldn't learn much from 10yr old plugs. The coolant looks clean other than some floaters.
On to the real question, lets say I move to an aluminum radiator. Does 2, 3, 4 row matter much, I'm planning to either re-use my shroud and mechanical fan and if those don't fit I'll opt for a new shroud and electric fan. And are the radiators I'm seeing on ebay quality?
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1. Do you have a recovery tank?
2. If no recovery tank do you try to keep the radiator full or do you keep the coolant level down about 1 inch cold?
3. If you are trying to keep the radiator full with no recovery tank it will always puke some coolant out when it heats up...especially when you shut it down hot and the coolant temp goes way up, which is normal.
4. The condition described in 3. will be exacerbated if the radiator pressure cap is weak. Good 13lb cap seems to work the best for me.
BB
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I have a glass coke bottle for a recovery tank (Actually it might be a fanta orange drink bottle).
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I moved from old radiator to aluminum 3 rows and i solved the problem forever . But i will consider champion radiators instead of cheap ones .
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I’ve got a cheap eBay aluminum radiator I bought about 15 years ago. Works great, never ever had a issue. I have the two row and it cools just fine. I prefer the 2 row over the three row. I feel the two row allows more air movement around and through the radiator and cools better.
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A 17" x 16.5" rad core seems to be a bit on the small size.
Champion rads have a good reputation and are good value for the money, I like mine!
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they work ok. I had one. The issue I have seen is that the core is not exactly 16" .. Good quality 16" radiators are 16 and 1/4" core. The best one on ebay was 15 3/4.. half inch isnt much , but when I went to install a 16" shroud or a 16" electric fan , they wont fit..
Ended up selling mine for 50 bucks and for now I am on 3 row copper. I am thinking of buying champion or engineered cooling 3 row radiator for my next aluminum one.
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I bought mine from Virginia Classic Mustang a few years back. I don't remember the details accept that it was really inexpensive. It works great and I've had no cooling issues.
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Rudi wrote:
A 17" x 16.5" rad core seems to be a bit on the small size.
Champion rads have a good reputation and are good value for the money, I like mine!
I haven't seen anything larger... Isn't that larger than original anyhow?
Back on topic, I saw the pictures on Ebay. Those aluminum shrouds on the champion radiators got me thinking, if the fan ever fails, you're not getting much airflow. (I know.. buy a quality fan). How do the fans operate, I don't see hardly any ads with a thermostat/fan relay. So.. always on?
Are the shrouds really necessary if the core is 17x16.5 and a monster electric fan? (I live in Livermore, it gets over 100 during the summer) I saw a 2 row champion radiator with fan for 260.00, no shroud, no relay (far as I could tell). Then I saw a no name brand, 4 row with everything for 378.00. I'm lost, don't know what I want now. Only thing that I know I do want is some radiator and an electric fan.
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I think I am getting one of these. Lifetime warranty, decent price and can be bought with an electric fan.
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I get flummoxed every time one of these cooling discussions occurs. I'm trying to understand why my setup has been working so well for over 20 years. Based on each of the threads, mine should not work as well as it does. As it is I have no problems in freeway traffic up to 95 deg. When moving I'm good to over 105 deg - but who wants to drive an un-air conditioned car at that temp!
Here is my setup.
Motor - 351w - ~350-375hp
Radiator - stock dimension '66 radiator - 4 core, copper
Fan - 70 351w flex fan, cut down to fit the radiator
Shroud - none
Thermostat - 180 deg
Front valence - Shelby w/scoop
Based on what I read I should have a larger 2 core aluminum radiator with electric fans and a shroud.
Go figure.
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okay... I think this is the onef:0
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JeffK wrote:
Rudi wrote:
A 17" x 16.5" rad core seems to be a bit on the small size.
Champion rads have a good reputation and are good value for the money, I like mine!I haven't seen anything larger... Isn't that larger than original anyhow?
Back on topic, I saw the pictures on Ebay. Those aluminum shrouds on the champion radiators got me thinking, if the fan ever fails, you're not getting much airflow. (I know.. buy a quality fan). How do the fans operate, I don't see hardly any ads with a thermostat/fan relay. So.. always on?
Are the shrouds really necessary if the core is 17x16.5 and a monster electric fan? (I live in Livermore, it gets over 100 during the summer) I saw a 2 row champion radiator with fan for 260.00, no shroud, no relay (far as I could tell). Then I saw a no name brand, 4 row with everything for 378.00. I'm lost, don't know what I want now. Only thing that I know I do want is some radiator and an electric fan.
I have a stock size aluminum rad fron Va. Classic with a 6 blade fan and no shroud and I've never had any cooling problems even here in Southeast Va. with summer temps in the high 90s and draw bridge traffic. Even when I had the original rad in it I never had an issue.
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I'm running an aluminum 2 row from Virginia Mustang and it has worked wonderful. I added a/c to my car last winter and now it runs a bit warmer but at least it doesnt boil the gas out of the carb when I shut it off like it did before
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I bought a cheap Fox Body Aluminum Radiator off Ebay for $119 and its works great. I have a 69 so I had to do some cutting to make it fit but it works nice. Steve69
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Disregarding that 12 year old's are building them makes a person wonder on why a hundred buck rad can perform just as well against one that's three to four times the money!
Who is getting fooled?
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lowercasesteve wrote:
I get flummoxed every time one of these cooling discussions occurs. I'm trying to understand why my setup has been working so well for over 20 years. Based on each of the threads, mine should not work as well as it does. As it is I have no problems in freeway traffic up to 95 deg. When moving I'm good to over 105 deg - but who wants to drive an un-air conditioned car at that temp!
Here is my setup.
Motor - 351w - ~350-375hp
Radiator - stock dimension '66 radiator - 4 core, copper
Fan - 70 351w flex fan, cut down to fit the radiator
Shroud - none
Thermostat - 180 deg
Front valence - Shelby w/scoop
Based on what I read I should have a larger 2 core aluminum radiator with electric fans and a shroud.
Go figure.
Key word........."Shelby with/scoop"
6s6
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6sally6 wrote:
lowercasesteve wrote:
I get flummoxed every time one of these cooling discussions occurs. I'm trying to understand why my setup has been working so well for over 20 years. Based on each of the threads, mine should not work as well as it does. As it is I have no problems in freeway traffic up to 95 deg. When moving I'm good to over 105 deg - but who wants to drive an un-air conditioned car at that temp!
Here is my setup.
Motor - 351w - ~350-375hp
Radiator - stock dimension '66 radiator - 4 core, copper
Fan - 70 351w flex fan, cut down to fit the radiator
Shroud - none
Thermostat - 180 deg
Front valence - Shelby w/scoop
Based on what I read I should have a larger 2 core aluminum radiator with electric fans and a shroud.
Go figure.
Key word........."Shelby with/scoop"
6s6
You gottit! Front opening acts as a shroud in front channeling ALL of the air to the rad. less air loss. Front opening also uncovers the whole lower third of the rad effectively giving a third more cooling from the same size.
Makes under hood decisions less complex.
...But many of those Shelby scoops take a lot of time on installation. The down running brace supporting the hood latch also interferes requiring slotting the scoop or eliminating it (brace) altogether.
Last edited by lowercasesteve (11/16/2018 9:45 PM)
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Here is my cooling system details in my 65 Fastback ...
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I bought 1 off EBay for the "frankenstang" it is really well made if it were brass it would look OEM .
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JeffK wrote:
okay... I think this is the one
f:0
i still suggest this :
will be like this
Cut a little the battery tray , 4 new holes and correct distance for fan . no need for electrical fan .
As you can see i got ac . with this i can stay on the road all day in hot summer with ac on and water temp at 185 constantly also in trafic jam . My money best spent ! 3 row !
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Alessandro wrote:
JeffK wrote:
okay... I think this is the one
f:0
i still suggest this :
will be like this
Cut a little the battery tray , 4 new holes and correct distance for fan . no need for electrical fan .
As you can see i got ac . with this i can stay on the road all day in hot summer with ac on and water temp at 185 constantly also in trafic jam . My money best spent ! 3 row !
Alessandro that set up would be much more efficient with a fan shroud!
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Rudi wrote:
Alessandro wrote:
JeffK wrote:
okay... I think this is the one
f:0
i still suggest this :
will be like this
Cut a little the battery tray , 4 new holes and correct distance for fan . no need for electrical fan .
As you can see i got ac . with this i can stay on the road all day in hot summer with ac on and water temp at 185 constantly also in trafic jam . My money best spent ! 3 row !Alessandro that set up would be much more efficient with a fan shroud!
Rudi ... thanks ! but i can guarantee that is not needed !
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