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I have a 65 Mustang with a 1990 5.0 & T5. I've installed a Mustang Steve's adjustable clutch cable but now the pedal effort is too stiff and when I make adjustments the clutch pedal pulls upward (toward the drivers knee). When I installed the engine I had removed the T5 and reinstalled. All the parts are stock. Is it possible that the clutch fork is not aligned correctly? Is there supposed to be a "stopper" that prevents the clutch pedal from moving toward the driver? I had previously posted about changing to a C4 but if I could make the pedal effort easier then I'll keep the T5. Thanks for the help
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Yes there is a stop for the clutch. I would check to see if that is the problem.
Stiff clutch.......do you have the "long" pressure plate or the "diaphragm" pressure plate.
The long is the one with three fingers and is what was used from the factory 53 years ago. The diaphragm is VERY easy to engage/disengage and is more modern.
Sounds like you may hafta pull it apart anyway.......may as well install a new diaphragm PP and clutch and pilot bearing and release bearing.
UNLESS!!!!...........Did it EVER engage/disengage easily? IF it did and then got stiff....you may have melted the clutch cable. (a common problem when switching to cable actuated clutch.)
6s6
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FYI, you should NEVER use the three finger style pressure plate with a cable clutch. They were never designed for it, and likely the cable will eventually snap as a result.
There is a stopper that stops rearward (towards you) pedal travel, but I don't see this being an issue.
Anything is possible, but I doubt the fork is misaligned. The fork fits over a ball stud and that's about it. Now, where things could have gone awry is when the trans was bolted up. Did the trans fully seat BEFORE the bolts went in, or did it seat all but about 1/4"-1/2" and then you drew it up to the bellhousing with the bolts?
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You MUST have a clutch pedal stop installed for the clutch to work properly. That alone will not cause a hard pedal, though. But, without one, the pedal can get so high up that is makes the cable not wrap around the quadrant properly. The bigger issue is you will have a longer pedal stroke and that can cause the pressure plate to overcenter, causing permanent damage to the clutch.
Possible causes of hard clutch pedal:
Melted clutch cable. Be sure it is not close to exhaust. Insulate where it comes even near exhaust. Way to check: Undo the cable at the bottom. The inner wire should slide easily inside the housing.
Wrong pressure plate as described by others.
No lubrication, or rough surface on the transmission bearing retainer tube, where the throwout bearing slides. If the throwout bearing cannot slide easily, it will make for a very hard, or even locked up, pedal travel.
Bad bushings at the clutch pedal pivot shaft.
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Hmn, if the cable slipped off the quadrant, but was still attached it would cause a very hard pedal I would think. Easy enough to check with a quick look under the dash.
Its hard to believe there are any T5s still out there with aluminum rear bearing retainers, but in the off chance you have one that could also cause it. Steel replacements have been the standard for decades to prevent the TO bearing from wearing into it and causing screwed up clutch actuation.
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Did the stock Ford clutch come with steel rear bearing retainers? I appreciate all the suggestion and information
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Not the clutch; the transmission. The throw out bearing rides on the sleeve that's part of the rear bearing retainer on the back of the trans. That sleeve was aluminum in a lot of stock applications (including Fox Mustangs).
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TKOPerformance wrote:
Hmn, if the cable slipped off the quadrant, but was still attached it would cause a very hard pedal I would think. Easy enough to check with a quick look under the dash.
Its hard to believe there are any T5s still out there with aluminum rear bearing retainers, but in the off chance you have one that could also cause it. Steel replacements have been the standard for decades to prevent the TO bearing from wearing into it and causing screwed up clutch actuation.
Get the Ford steel replacement retainer. There’s another company selling one which has a tendency to come apart. $51.99 at American Muscle.
My ‘92 still has the aluminum retainer. 286K miles. Clutch just started chattering since I installed the last clutch at about 125K miles. It’s scheduled for an entire clutch overhaul in the next couple weeks, including a new steel retainer. Any use in installing a roller pilot bearing?
Last edited by Muzz 66 (11/26/2018 11:21 PM)
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TKOPerformance wrote:
Not the clutch; the transmission. The throw out bearing rides on the sleeve that's part of the rear bearing retainer on the back of the trans. That sleeve was aluminum in a lot of stock applications (including Fox Mustangs).
And I believe you meant front bearing retainer on the front of the trans.
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Yeah, it is technically the front bearing retainer (actually its the input shaft retainer), but for some reason in common language its always referenced as "rear". I can only speculate that its because its at the rear of the engine.
All Fox cars used roller pilot bearings stock. That's all I've ever put in one. Never had a failure or problem associated with one.
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