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Hello
I'm restoring my 67 Fastback and have stripped the dash down to bare metal and have a new tilt column in bare steel. I'm a little reluctant to use spray primer and spray paint from a can since I'm use to using automotive primers and know spray cans aren't near as durable.
Was considering using PPG Epoxy then a primer surfacer then some color but not sure if I can get a color from PPG that will look close to factory. This is also a lot more work and cost. Is it worth it and is it necessary
I also don't know if the spray can paint would be compatible over an automotive primer.
Any thoughts on this or what have you guys done with good luck?
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Check out TCPglobal.com they have their color library and you will be able to get the interior color code for ppg from their site.
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I'd use SPI Epoxy as the primer if it's bare metal. Be sure to hit it with 80 grit. As far as color, whatever can match and is available I'd imagine. You're right about avoiding the spray can, although I imagine folks will chime in where they've had good luck, but not something I would do.
Oh and don't forget the Mustang Steve trick!!! Paint the underside of the dash white so you can see better!!! Such a good idea.
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I second SPI epoxy primer and their clears. Top notch product. Plus should you ever need support the owner of the company is who you usually talk to and he gives you his personal cell phone number.
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I don't know. I've painted my interior several times over the years using spray cans I bought from my local Mustang supplier. Clean thoroughly, scuff with a scotch bright and spray away with the rattle can.
Looks great even today after over 20 years. No runs. Color is right. No missed spots. No peeling. Did it all in one day. Of course I masked off everything inside, and removed as much stuff as possible..
Last edited by lowercasesteve (12/12/2018 12:55 PM)
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I rattle canned my interior as well.. stripped down to metal, using paint stripper and steel wool, washed with alcholol or something like that. Spray can primer from the local restoration shop, and spray can laquer. I seem the recall getting the last few cans of laquer were something special but I don't recall why that was. That was 12yrs ago for my current car, looks exactly the same today as when I painted it then.
I absolutely recommend one thing, if you are painting one color, do not mix different brands of the same color. My rear interior quarter convertible panels are a different color white than my dash and doors.
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I used rustoleum back in 1992. Still waiting for an excuse to redo it, but it still is holding up, except where I have scratched it.
I will not use rustoleum again. They have changed it, and not for the better.
I applaud anyone who will take the time to paint it with automotive grade paint, but for me, I woukd rather be able to easily touch up where I scratch it up.
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If you use automotive paint store stuf you risk covering the detail in the metal. Rattle can stuff is usually thinner than pro stuff and doesn't fill in the detail in the metal.
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I'm with JeffK on this one. Take the time to do proper prep work (down to bare metal if possible), prime and paint. I also used rattle can lacquer purchased from NPD. They sell quality paints including SEM.
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ive always used spray can and spray primer
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These are the paints I prefer and have used with great success. The Seymour lacquer is available at NPD. I do start with an etching primer on bare metal parts and use SEM standard primer (not high-build) on textured parts.
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I'm with rhutt on this.
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SEM not your average rattle can, good stuff
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The gloss level of the Seymour lacquer will dull slightly as it cures, but it matches the seat trims nicely. The attached image is with 25 year old trims. The new seat trims are perfect.
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