I have heard that shielding gas selection plays into penetration.  Straight CO2 instead of a mixed argon / CO2 shielding gas is supposed to improve penetration. 

I’d get some 1/8” scrap and practice with the current turned up to max.

I’d also keep extension cord lengths down, using a 10 or 12 gauge cord if needed and making sure the welder is plugged into a 20 amp circuit.

Also what size wire are you using?  .030?

Last edited by Bentworker (12/14/2018 10:56 AM)

What DC^^^^^^ sez.  Grind a bevel (down to a V shape)  Maybe even a U shape. Making the bottom of the V/U thin enough that when welding it will melt when you weld it. (that's a root pass) Next weld pass should  have the "weld puddle" half way on the root pass and the wall of the V/U bevel. Third pass should cover the other half of the root pass and the other wall of the V/U bevel.
Get my drift?!
   OR.......put the root pass in and then "weave" a heavy pass across the width of the bevel going "very" slow so the weld builds up and fills the V/U bevel.(you should be able to "see" the weld build-up behind the wire coming out of the gun.
Also.....when you do this you are entitled to indulge in "welder habits"!!
Here are a few examples:
Talk to it!!...."yeah baby......I'm pour'n the heat to your a-- now!!  That's right....fill in....uh huh....who's your f-ing daddy NOW?!"   Kinda like that!.
Do you smoke or chew tobacco (dipping snuff also counts)?!
That's part of the "mystic of welder-hood" too!
Should prolly do one of these filthy habits while waiting for the weld to cool.
IF you don't do tobacco you can substitute picking you teeth or nose (with the same finger or course!)
You know you're a "REAL WELDER" when you can weld in the overhead position with no shirt on! We call that a 'bare-back welder'! Or course wearing a tee shirt and cut of jeans shorts will  always add "point" to becoming a "REAL WELDER". (flip flop shoes score additional points)
One very important point.........wear your cap backwards ONLY...I repeat ONLY... when in the act-of-welding!  ALL OTHER TIMES....caps MUST be worn in the proper 'bill-facing-forward' position!
Only 4 thru 6 year old boys are allowed to wear a cap backward.
Guys any older than that with their cap on backward, are considered to be 'posers' or mutts.
These are just a few of the "benefits" of being a welder....struggling to become a "REAL WELDER"!
6sally6
Merry Christmas!

TremendousWand wrote:

My Lincoln handy man mig welder list 1/8" (.125) as maximum plate thickness.  The subframe kit I need to weld is 7 gauge which is about .180" thick.

That's maximum thickness for a single pass. These folks steered you right, grind an appropriate bevel, lay a root pass, and finish with either a single weave or 2 stringers for the fill/ cover pass.

And don't swallow the tobacco

Last edited by Jon Richard (12/14/2018 6:59 PM)

1.  Clean metal
2.  No extension cord.
3. Good ground.
4. Use .030 or .035 solid welding wire
5. It'll work!  Get after it!
5.5  Miller time!!!

I use C25 Argon/CO2 gas with good results.  .

What has worked best for me is stitch welding instead of a continuous bead! Also the settings and wire speed go hand in hand

Im going to give you a bit of a different answer.   I have a Lincoln weld pac which is a similar amperage to the handy mig.  88 amps.    When I put subframe connectors on my convertible, I started the first welds with the Lincoln.  The welds looked like shiz.   I had to grind most of it off because I wasnt happy with the finished look.  I actually now have 3 welders, but at that time, I only had 2.  I switched to my Clarke en 180, which is a 220 welder, and it welded the subframe connectors on like they were butter, with nice pretty welds that make me smile.    Since then, I have bought a 140 amp inverter technology welder, from Northern Tool, and it welds great.  I even though its a 110 welder, it would have had enough thump to weld those subframe connectors.   Now, to my advice.   Like others have said, I think your best shot at getting this done with your handyman mig, is CO2 gas, and preheating the metal, in particular, the thicker metal of the subframe connector.   I have welded things way beyond the capability of my Lincoln weld pac by preheathing thicker metal.    Also, the others advice about clean metal, good grounds, no extension cords, is all great advice.   There is no bad advice in this thread.   

I installed a 20amp circuit last year in the garage for just this purpose. 

Not sure what extension cable I use, it hasn't been a problem before.  I've done plenty of welding w/ this, just never pushed the limits.

I'll bevel the edges before welding, good tip.  I can make this work.

One technique no one has mentioned is dual-shield flux core. Load up some .035 flux core mig wire, use your regular mig shield gas; welds like stick, but better. You have to chip off the flux, but you needed to wire brush the weld anyway.