| ||
Visit MustangSteve's web site to view some of my work and find details for: FYIFORD Contributors' PICTURES - Power Brake Retrofit Kits for 65-66 Stangs - Classic Mustang FAQ's by MustangSteve - How to wire in a Duraspark Ignition - Mustang Ride Height Pictures and Descriptions - Steel Bushings to fit Granada Spindles to Mustang Tie Rods - Visit my EBAY store MustangSteve Performance - How to Install Granada Disc Brakes MustangSteve's Disc Brake Swap Page - FYIFORD Acronyms for guide to all the acronyms used on this page - FYIFORD Important information and upcoming events |
1 of 1
Offline
So I used Moog ball joints in the UCAs of my 65 FB because of their reputation. Today, after only about 100 miles, one of the dust covers split. I couldn't understand why until I bought a cheap one (O'Reiley Master Pro for $9.00) for the dust cover. I noticed that the tapered stud was a little thicker than the Moog one, and sure enough, it doesn't go into the spindle as far. In fact, it sticks out about 1" versus the Moog's 3/4", as the following photos show (note the dust covers are off). My working theory is that because the Moog goes in the spindle further, it smashes the dust cover more and causes the split. I'd appreciate any observations. So instead of using the Master Pro's dust cover on the Moog, I'm thinking of just using the whole Master Pro ball joint. It has a grease fitting and very similar to the Moog, the only obvious difference being that the Moog has a thick stamped housing versus a cast one for the Master Pro. Any thoughts on that?
BTW, for those who haven't tried to remove ball joints without removing the shock and spring, you might try this. It's a block of wood with an angled bottom and a tab cut into the top to fit under the spring perch:
Last edited by jkordzi (1/06/2019 5:59 PM)
Offline
I have to ask, who has true quality anymore. Replaced both Silverado front hub bearings, with what was the best money could buy in AK this summer. Well I just replaced again, (Moog under there 3 year warranty made in China) bearing, a few weeks ago. Not something I like to do away from home...
Offline
Well, the Master Pro ball joint doesn't fit up into the UCA, so I'm just going to use the cover from it, which seems identical to the Moog. Starting to wonder if the tapered holes in my spindles are too loose because both the top and bottom ball joints go into them very far and all the ball joint covers are pretty squished.
Offline
Are you sure that you have the right parts. I'm asking because last summer I replace mine. The first one I did fit and tightened down as I expected that it should. When I put in the other side it would not tighten down. After further investigation the part was boxed wrong. I had a big go around with Moog direct and not till they got their parts back did they admit that was the problem. They were kind enough to write me a letter and admit it.
Offline
One of those joints is going to change the ride height about 1/2”..
most grease boots pop be ause they have too much grease pumped into them. Hydraulics are very strong when the boot gets squished going down the road.
If you bought the Moog part at O’reilly, it has a lifetime warranty, and they will gladly exchange it for a new one. The ball joint in your picture with the longer shaft does not look correct.
Offline
Thanks. I got the Moog ball joint at RockAuto and will ask them about it. I have concluded that the Master Pro one was misboxed or just wasn't manufactured correctly but the cover fit perfectly. Overgreasing makes sense as a possible cause so I'll make sure I don't do that and we'll see.
Offline
jkordzi wrote:
Thanks. I got the Moog ball joint at RockAuto and will ask them about it. I have concluded that the Master Pro one was misboxed or just wasn't manufactured correctly but the cover fit perfectly. Overgreasing makes sense as a possible cause so I'll make sure I don't do that and we'll see.
WHAT!! ............We s'pose to put grease in 'em?!
6sal6
1 of 1
REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on. |