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Since I used the Scare Bird Conversion....it uses a "shivel-lay" caliper. THAT!! is why the Maverick MC gave just so-so results. The "shivel-lay calipers retract more than the FoMoCo ones (so they won't drag)
Therefore....a "stepped" MC is required to make them work correctly. OR so this fellow hot rodder sez.
S-10 MC is stepped. I THINK.....the calipers take more fluid to go out/extend and a stepped MC makes'em do right.
I'm gonna try it and let y'all know. (Not that anybody else has this set-up)
6sally6
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Keep the master cylinder, trash the calipers
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I think a 4.3L Chevy V6 will bolt right in there also. Just to match your calipers.
Maybe a 2 psi residual pressure valve in the line would help.
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rpm wrote:
Keep the master cylinder, trash the calipers
Follow RPM's advise!
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Guess I could just switch calipers.....................except the brackets were designed for the shivel-lay calipers!!
I wonder if I took a-hold of some war..........(Thax BB)??????
6s6
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Or you can follow the advice from MS above and install a residual pressure valve. 2 psi should do the trick. If these are the fronts, loose wheel bearings can also produce excessive disc movement that can cause caliper pistons to retract more than normal. And, if the calipers are not properly centered over the disc it can put a side load on the rotor when the brakes are applied and then it springs back when the brakes are released causing the pistons to retract. The centering issue can also affect rear discs. Pull a wheel and have someone mash the pedal while you watch the caliper so see if there is excessive movement. Shims are supplied with some bracket kits to aid in centering the caliper.
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