Do you mean, will it bolt up?  Or will it physically fit in the tunnel?  I have a TKO 600 in my 66, but it took a lot of cutting and rebuilding to fit it in there.  It is basically the same physical size as a 3550.  The 67 does have more tranny clearance than a 66.

The TKO 600 went into my car with no modifications to the trans tunnel. Could be different for you though.

DC, I love ya brother, but I gotta disagree. 

If wheel hop is causing failure in a T5 it can be solved with the addition of a simple countergear support plate and applying proper 0.003" preload to the countergear and mainshaft via proper shimming.  FYI, you can break a 9" rear the exact same way if you run a crush collar in it instead of a solid spacer.  The wheel hop sets up an oscillation and bang!  Remove the endplay, and the ability to oscillate and the problem disappears.  I'm getting a deja vu feeling like we discussed this previously on another thread. 

I've driven T5s, 3350s, and TKOs and with reference to shift feel there's no comparison between the T5 and the Tremecs.  Sure, you can jam a Tremec into gear with every shift, but a trans with synchros shouldn't need to be shifted like something with dog rings.  They don't have to shift that way!  Drive something with a T56 and you'll see what I mean.  A T56 is every bit as strong as a Tremec, but shifts like a T5.  Bottom line, Tremec missed the boat with the synchro design and should be using the aftermarket carbon friction lined synchros you can get through Bob Hanlon instead of 40 year old brass ring technology. 

I've flogged T5s for decades and had very limited breakage.  Whenever I did I was able to solve the issue for less money than swapping to a Tremec.  I've also built T5s for a lot of guys over the years.  My T5s are in a lot of cars everyone said they would never survive in, yet many years later they are still going strong. 

In the end you have to do what makes sense for you, and as they say: your mileage may vary.  I do confess to having a bit of a thing about not believing what "everyone" seems to think about the relative strength of various drivetrain parts, but that's simply my nature.  Before I'm willing to agree I've got to test it, and much more often than not I've found most of that "knowledge" isn't.  Possibly I'm just the luckiest guy in the world when it comes to this stuff, but if that's the case I've been able to pass that luck on to a lot of other guys over the years. 

Oh, FYI the TKO is just an upgrade 3550.  You can actually upgrade a 3550 to TKO specs.  Not sure about the TKO500 and TKO600, but I'm sure they are a derivative as well.  They make have expensive parts that are different though, like the mainshaft, etc., but I'd be the cases are the same.  Probably not worth trying to upgrade that far though. 

No doubt, wheel hop is like detonation.  People can't seem to figure out that its happening; they just keep breaking stuff. 

Hey, most people can't drive period.  Its why I've always felt safer on a race track than on the road.  Throw a manual trans into the mix and it mostly gets worse. 

In the end, our experiences are what we have, and we advise based on those. 

Sounds like not.  Its also the kind of thing I'd personally buy as an investment if it was cheap enough.  For a couple hundred worth of parts I could fully rebuild it and upgrade it to TKO specs and I'm pretty sure I could get an easy $1500-$1800 for it given the cost of a brand new one, especially if I used the carbon blocker rings and could boast of the improved shift feel.