A quick search shows a number of pick and pull locations in the Metroplex.  Pick a less than muddy day and discover the joy and almost zen like experience of hunting through trashed cars for parts.  If you just need the dispstick, find some AOD cars and grab one for a few bucks.  Even better, grab a few of different lengths.  If you need the tube, you'll need a few wrenches to get the upper support loose.

or this more expensive option :
https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL69130-Transmission-Automatic/dp/B009Q7A6VQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549043975&sr=8-1&keywords=all69130

which one would you do.. any others are 60 and up to a 100 bucks, Thats where it becomes too much for a stupid dip stick assembly.. 25 is where i am leaning while not being stock look..

This one above is more stock look BUT! double the money

Gaba, my stock AOD filler tube is 19" inches from the trans case edge to the top. The dip stick is 22" from the top to the bottom of the cap.

alright
1) so the car is up in the air (really just 20 inches up in the air) , as far as I could get it on 6 ton jackstands and my hydraulic jacks without feeling like the whole thing was going to tip over...while I want to get the transmission jack from HF, the sucker is 7.5 inches at its lowest, and the transmission is 17.5 inches high. so... I will just have the get the transmission under the car on a cardboard or something. and then tip, and jack it up with my low profile jack ( with a peice of wood under it) while ratcheting it to the jack somehow.. complicated i know. but outside of going somewhere with a lift, that is my only option

2) the AOD measured 30.5inches, and measured my C4 and its coming out to be 30.25 inches approximately , so no driveshaft change required

3) THe yoke has the same spline count as the C4, but the C4 yoke is deeper by about an inch. When inserted into the AOD, that yoke bottoms out on some part inside the tail ext housing, about an inch before it bottoms out on top, so the new shorter yoke is defiintely going to be used

4) the tubular transmission mount that came with the CPC kit , I heard had a tendency to not like the H pipe setups.. LOL , and just looking at where its going to go, I can tell that the dual pipes are going to hit the tranmission mount, means getting the pipes  remade or widened.

5) My H pipe pipe was built with my Walker muffler install and it was all one piece from manifolds to the tail pipes. So I have to cut the H pipes behind the H to get it out the way for the transmission install. which I am going to use couplers and sealing high temp tape to remount it, so it is removeable for the future

Here starts the fun of retrofitting the stang ...

about the dip sticks :
OH BTW.. pick and pulls around me are all 93 and over vehicles ( the 93 vehicle was a 4 cyl ford) .. the junk yards that I called didnt have the car years I was looking for either
Transmission shops all said no. Hard to find ford transmission dip sticks, chevies apparently are easier to come by ( may be because they have bad transmissions anyway LOL )
Autozone and orielly had nothing
So I am shilling out $45 for the dip stick and tube on amazon to get it
 

Last edited by Gaba (2/05/2019 2:44 PM)

rpm wrote:

If you can beg, borrow or steal a tranny jack, it will be an easy one man install job.
On my prior tranny, I used a yoke which I cut an inch off the end without issue. Just make sure you dress it properly.

I want a tranny jack.. I dont mind buying it.. but I cannot fit it under the car.. 17.5 of tranny and 7.5 of tranny jack total 5 inches more than I have been able to lift the car with my jackstands thats the issue

"Dress" it? Please explain (I want me make sure I am not missing anything)

Last edited by Gaba (2/05/2019 3:31 PM)

rpm wrote:

Dressing, as in grinding, sanding and polishing.

Also...de-burring, breaking the edge, making it smooooooth so as not to tear up the seal when you install it.  Also pay attention to the splines inside the yoke.  You'll likely use a cut-off wheel to shorten the yoke and while there will be very little burring, there will be some.  Also be sure you clean that sucker verrrrrry well inside and out.

Or...just buy a new yoke for the AOD butt (TS&T) then you have to replace the front U-joint also with a big & little to adapt the AOD yoke to the stock 65/66 DS.

Oh what fun there is......

BB
 

Do whatever you can do to get the car higher safely. I have a wonderful divot in my left forearm from being in your exact conundrum and trying to get an E4OD on a trans jack **after** the truck was in the air. While wiggling it up on the trans jack it slid off!! Thankfully the entire weight of the trans did not come down on my arm as it would have done more damage than just a nasty gash and permanent mark.

I simply went to HF and bought taller jackstands, funny enough I now use those most of the time as the base is wider and feels quite a bit more stable.

Last edited by Raymond_B (2/05/2019 4:20 PM)

Bob and rpm I have a new shorter yoke! .. I was just telling my findings why it was needed

The Jack stands are the wider taller ones .. I have 4 inches in them I know it, but I feel like They may not be sturdy enough for being that high

But I will check

Thankfully I will have one or two buddies doing this with me.. Still though I like having a trans jack idea a lot better!

JOSH KEBOB!! WOW! HOW DIDNT I THINK ABOUT THAT!  :D :D

Sorry to ask the obvious but safety is worth mentioning. The jack stands are supporting the lower control arms about as close to the tires as you get them in the front and the spring perches for the rear? If you try to wiggle the car while it’s up on jack stands, it feels stable with no movement?

I have a flat plate about 12”x12” welded to a cup from an old jack that I use when I need to lift something like a transmission. Gives me a nice wide flat surface. And I have this because there wasn’t a $75 trans jack available when the cup and plate were welded up so many years ago?

Have you thought about using the fancy trans jack to lower the old transmission down out of the car, then slide it off the jack and pull out from under the car. Slide the new trans under the car into the tunnel area, then wrestle up onto the fancy trans jack to raise into position?? That’s how I would have to do it with my trans plate, since I have no way to get the car to the elevation required to roll the trans and jack under the car together either.

Gaba wrote:

Will putting it under the lower control arms make it go higher?

Gaba, I'm not impressed with using the stands under the LCA's.  That's just not a stable surface in my opinion.  I have used the front frame rails as you are presently using and also use the frame rails under the foot wells. 
As bolted says, it seem to me that once the old trans is out you should be able to lift the AOD into the tunnel area once it's wiggled up onto any jack.  And if you can get the C4 out you should be able to get the AOD in if you can round up some one to help get the trans in position and run the jack.

Been there.....,

BB

So Gaba, you been testing the new trans lately???
 

How to adapt the old 65 wiring to work with the AOD ?

Could someone tell me what wire to solder to what ?

Thanks!!

By the way the one update I haven’t made is that the Cal Pony Cars transmission crossmember has to be slotted according to another thread I had started ... when slotted I was able to get the crossmember installed beautifully.. the transmission is in , work still is required to get it functional in the car.

Oh and the cooler lines went in perfectly too