I don't see an issue with daisy chaining and I like non-insulated butt splices that get crimped and solder. The Westinghouse split should work fine too and I would solder those as well. Heat shrink is a must.
Look for the stuff that has at least a 3-1 ratio. Thanks to BB for that one.

My preference on gauges is to make up a bus bar that provides 12v keyed power, ground, and lighting circuit power.  There's nothing wrong with splicing, but this way I can remove the gauges one at a time if I ever have an issue with any one.  I simply use some brass hardware as lugs and run it into some plastic to insulate each lug from the other.  Then ring or prong terminals on the wires.  Tighten down the nut once they're all on and done.  For terminals I really like the solder/seal terminals.  Simply apply heat with a heat gun and they solder and shrink tube all in one step.  If you want to get super tricky you can heat shrink another layer of thin black heat shrink tubing over it and it comes very, very close to the size and appearance of a factory Ford rubber shod terminal.  I do this in the engine bay when terminals will be seen to make them appear factory. 

Last edited by TKOPerformance (2/14/2019 5:23 AM)

Bolted to Floor wrote:

Bullet Bob wrote:

John:  Thanks for the thanks but I don't recall what I did or said to earn them.  Butt then, I am pretty old.  See ya in Clinton....cain't wait.

BB
 

That pack of information you sent me and a lot of others, had a place to buy heat shrink. Until then, I didn't realize there was a ratio on the stuff. I thought it was all the same and couldn't understand why the stuff I was getting from Lowes didn't act the same as I got at work.

There's also different types of liners (adhesive, non-adhesive) and flexibility. I bought a ton of USA made heat shrink from these guys https://www.sherco-auto.com/usa.html 

Picked up quality USA wire from here https://www.wiringproducts.com/cross-link-sxl-wire **Meant to add, there's different insulation thicknesses. SXL is a thicker insulator.**

Also used Waytek and McMasterCarr (expensive!) when needed. 

My philosophy is I'd rather not scrimp on wiring, not only for safety, but the giant pain it can be to track down problems later on!
 

Last edited by Raymond_B (2/13/2019 9:28 PM)

Thanks for the info guys.

I got plenty of good info that will help with other electrical work I'm doing like dual electric fans etc.

As Dkralc mentioned in his post the Speedhut set up comes with a special daisy chain harness which will make this easy enough.  Didn't see it in the one gauge box until last night.

I also have a relative that works at NSPA.com that manufactures electrical components like the non-insulated connectors you guys mention. Anybody ever use any of their stuff?  seems high quality from their website.  Getting her to pick me some stuff up at a discount.

 

Just did this the other day on a trio of SW gauges (elec oil press, water temp and voltage) that sit on a pod that replaces the radio grill in my 65.  I chained together the 18 gauge wire from the gauges to a strand of 14 gauge wire.  I soldered them together and then covered the joint with a couple of layers of heat shrink tubing.  You have to use a lot of heat to solder 4 wires together so the typical 40 watt soldering iron won't cut it.  Also helps to coat the wires with some rosin flux first.  Did this for the wire that runs to the ignition, the wire that runs to the lights, and the one for the ground.  The elect oil press and water temp gauges I ran have a fourth wire that goes to the sender.  FYI, you can get an oil pressure sender extension that has a second port on the side that also allows you to run the idiot light (or you can drill and tap it yourself).