I parked my E150 work van next to my 65 today and yesterday and everyday!

Bullet Bob wrote:

Thanks Jim.  Work on it all winter so I can drive it a couple of miles in the summer.

Oh also, not to change the subject but Barry (5.0Vert) is going to take delivery of your steering wheel at the Bash.

BB

   That sounds like what I do too...LOL   Though this winter I was working on my Son's 351W engine for his instead of mine.
 

The welding I said yesterday was going to be done today didn't happen. Meanwhile I did replace the battery on my Focus RS so I could get it out of the way to get to the shelf where I had my air filter stored and while I was at the car parts store to buy the new battery I also picked up some steel pipe bends to use to build a cold air intake that we'll see what's it gonna look like as I most likely will take the "design as we go" approach on it.

Bought a used 1994 T-5WC today. Thinking of putting a manual back in. I think (hope) the hardest part will be putting the clutch pedal asm back in. What else do I need to know?

Hopefully you aren't going to install that engine the same way it's posted! ;)

I just finished taking an Accel 34000 dual point distributor and fixed all of the things Accel did wrong to make it a good distributor. I've been running an old Ford 351W marine dual point distributor (no vac. adv.) with the MSD 6T, MSD Adjustable Timing Control and adjustable rev limiter and bought the Accel distributor about 20 years ago so I could have a vacuum advance unit in the system. Unfortunately it ran like crap after I installed it so I yanked it after determining that it was a POS, put the Ford dual point back in and got things back to where they were. A quick examination showed that the breaker plate was sloppy, rocking back and forth as the points would load and unload, making accurate timing impossible. Since I had purchased the distributor months earlier and I couldn't return it, I set it off to the side to look at when I had some time to waste.

Fast forward about 20 years and the Ford dual point is getting worn (bushing play) and it's time for a distributor. I remembered the Accel and dug it up for a full evaluation which revealed that the breaker plate was the least of its problems. There was less than .001" end play between the shaft and housing (Ford spec .024"-.035"), the gear was improperly positioned on the shaft (@ 3.992" | Ford spec 4.031"-4.038") and one of the point mounting screws was so long that it pinned down the vacuum advance arm, blocking it from moving.

I hate to say that the box it came in proudly states :Made In U.S.A.

I tore it apart, shaved the bottom bushing to get .032" shaft play, re-drilled the gear to locate it at 4.036" on the shaft, made two Delrin inserts to stabilize the breaker plate and give it a slick surface to ride on, and got some shorter points screws!

Now it works like a charm and I'm dialing in the vacuum advance as weather allows. Yes, I could use a electronic trigger and I did at one time. After dying on the road with no backup pickup handy I went back to points and haven't looked back since. It works for this old dog.

Last edited by 351MooseStang (3/06/2019 3:01 AM)

351MooseStang wrote:

Hopefully you aren't going to install that engine the same way it's posted! ;)

   You know It was straight in my pics but came out sideways when I posted it.  Crazy!
 

Brents65 wrote:

I installed the new dash pad and gauges, also put the headliner in.  Still have to tighten and glue it.  It’s progress!

also buttoned up most of the rear.
 

Last edited by Brents65 (3/06/2019 4:32 PM)

I agree. Definitely blue. 

RV6 wrote:

josh-kebob wrote:

nice.........what color is that??

Blue

 Blue....viper blue metallic pearl...

Finally getting around to changing my master cylinder and proportioning valve. My car has been suffering from rear brake drag.  Not sure exactly why. I had a 92 Ranger disc/drum master cylinder with 1” bore. It does NOT have a residual pressure valve for the rear brakes. My car is disc/disc. I verified no rear valve by thoroughly disassembling the mc. My prop valve was from a disc/disc 1977 Lincoln Versailles that has been on the car since 1993.  I don’t think there is a failure mode on those where it would hold pressure on the rear brakes?  But, I figured some new, known-to-work items I have installed on customers’ cars can’t hurt.

I am going with simple 2000 Mustang 1” bore disc/disc master cylinder, adjustable proportioning valve and a 2psi residual pressure valve on both ends.  Of course, the 66 has a MustangSteve power brake conversion on it.

Something to consider...
I originally used the Ranger mc because it has the ports on the fender side. The 2000 mc has them on the engine side.  Fender side is preferred location.
After disassembling the 92 mc, I determined the castings for the mc body are idential on both of them, except for port location side of exit. It looks like I could use the internal parts from the 2000 mc in the 1992 mc body to achieve having ports on the fender side. The internals are configured a little different on the disc/disc mc, so that would give me a disc/disc mc with driver side ports and 1” bore. This is unavailable in any other configuration other than corvette style.

Had to work on a presentation last night, but today I welded, used my new belt sander and then polished the power steering pump bracket, here it's back on my dusty engine:

Brents65 wrote:

Chaplin wrote:

MS wrote:

Finally getting around to changing my master cylinder and proportioning valve. My car has been suffering from rear brake drag.  Not sure exactly why. I had a 92 Ranger disc/drum master cylinder with 1” bore. It does NOT have a residual pressure valve for the rear brakes. My car is disc/disc. I verified no rear valve by thoroughly disassembling the mc. My prop valve was from a disc/disc 1977 Lincoln Versailles that has been on the car since 1993.  I don’t think there is a failure mode on those where it would hold pressure on the rear brakes?  But, I figured some new, known-to-work items I have installed on customers’ cars can’t hurt.

I am going with simple 2000 Mustang 1” bore disc/disc master cylinder, adjustable proportioning valve and a 2psi residual pressure valve on both ends.  Of course, the 66 has a MustangSteve power brake conversion on it.

Something to consider...
I originally used the Ranger mc because it has the ports on the fender side. The 2000 mc has them on the engine side.  Fender side is preferred location.
After disassembling the 92 mc, I determined the castings for the mc body are idential on both of them, except for port location side of exit. It looks like I could use the internal parts from the 2000 mc in the 1992 mc body to achieve having ports on the fender side. The internals are configured a little different on the disc/disc mc, so that would give me a disc/disc mc with driver side ports and 1” bore. This is unavailable in any other configuration other than corvette style.

If you do put that configuration together, please let us know how it works out. I’ve got the 2000 mc that came with the MS kit and it would be nice to have the outlet on the fender side.
 

 

Is the 2psi residual valve needed? I too have disc/ disc with a 2000 mustang MC.