The muffler shop pulled off the impossible navigating a maze of stuff like my panhard rod behind the rear axle.  Now I have 2 1/2" pipes from the headers back with a set of Flomaster 44s.  It is so much more pleasant to be around now that I don't have open headers...

Trailered it to and from the shop about 220 miles total in the rain.  

Not today, but over the last month or so.....got tired of the belt squeal from the 3G. So, bought the HiPo alternator pulley and installed. It never goes as planned!! Sent the speedo and clock to Rocket man Classic Cougars for repair to the trip meter a make the clock work again. Its due back this week. Did a temporary install on the back up camera.

I installed the new hood bumpers.  Started working on the axels.  I bought new cut to fit axels.  Got them cut down to size. I need to go pick up axels seals and lube and put it all back together...won’t be long and it will be a roller again!

josh-kebob wrote:

dropped the GT40P heads off at the engine builder/machine shop to have them freshened up.  Tearing down the short block, making my parts list in preparation for a rebuild....should be fun....

 
Is this in Mich. or Ok?
6s6

Today I test-drove the Heap after changing to a Fox V8 booster and rebuilding the front end.

The brakes are significantly better than with the Fox four cyl booster but the pedal travel is still about the same...3.5".  Hard stops from 45-50 bring it down very quick but do not tend to lock the front wheels until speed drops below about 20.  Butt (TS&T) both fronts lock equally and the car comes down straight.  On the other hand, the rears do not lock. 

The front end is stiff...all new...and does not want to return to center as well as it did before and it seems to have a little pull to the left (going both directions on the same highway).  I stopped messing with the alignment when I got 3.75 degrees of positive caster and >1/4 degree negative camber on both sides.  After the drive it seems to have a bit more caster on the left than the right now...I guess that could cause the left pull.

Over the weekend I will re-bleed the brakes via the pedal pump method and see if I can dial in the front end with around 4.5 degrees of caster on both sides.

Sure felt good, though, to drive the old Heap.  It's been a couple of months.

BB
 

Upon re-assembly, don't forget to have the pistons turned backward for free HP!
6sal6

Bullet Bob wrote:

Today I test-drove the Heap after changing to a Fox V8 booster and rebuilding the front end.

The brakes are significantly better than with the Fox four cyl booster but the pedal travel is still about the same...3.5".  Hard stops from 45-50 bring it down very quick but do not tend to lock the front wheels until speed drops below about 20.  Butt (TS&T) both fronts lock equally and the car comes down straight.  On the other hand, the rears do not lock. 

The front end is stiff...all new...and does not want to return to center as well as it did before and it seems to have a little pull to the left (going both directions on the same highway).  I stopped messing with the alignment when I got 3.75 degrees of positive caster and >1/4 degree negative camber on both sides.  After the drive it seems to have a bit more caster on the left than the right now...I guess that could cause the left pull.

Over the weekend I will re-bleed the brakes via the pedal pump method and see if I can dial in the front end with around 4.5 degrees of caster on both sides.

Sure felt good, though, to drive the old Heap.  It's been a couple of months.

BB
 

  Did the Blizzard miss you BB?
 

HudginJ3 wrote:

Bought a used 1994 T-5WC today. Thinking of putting a manual back in. I think (hope) the hardest part will be putting the clutch pedal asm back in. What else do I need to know?

The 94 T5 has a longer input that the more desirable (for retrofit) 93 and earlier.  If you don't change out the input shaft, then you have to use the 1994-95 bellhousing, which has the cable entry bracket clocked lower on the driver side.  That is great on a 94-95 Mustang, but will very nastily interfere with the power steering lower ram on a 70 Mustang.  If you converted to Borgeson box, I think you are OK.
There is not a good cable clutch system available for the 70, so you have to go with the old horse/buggy z-bar or hydraulic.  If you use the z-bar, you will have to use a tranny adapter plate instead of the better T5 bellhousing.
 

I learned my lesson on used T5’s many years ago. Since then, nothing but brand new or Buzek-built will do. And, honestly, I have had better luck with Buzek-built than the new ones.

I drove mine to work, yesterday and today...

150k miles its definitely time for a rebuild.  Personally I'd just change the input shaft to the '85-'93 one.  The SN95 bellhousing was a two year only offering, whereas the Fox ones are much easier to find. 

T5s take a beating in use.  Be prepared to replace the reverse idler gear, the 1/2 slider, and likely the 2nd speed gear at a minimum.  I've yet to rebuild a T5 that didn't need at least the first two.  The 2nd speed gear takes a beating from hard 1/2 shifts, usually with a factory shifter.  Do yourself a favor and get a Pro 5.0.

One trick that is inexpensive to get a T5 a bit more durability is to install a billet countergear rear bearing retainer.  This allows you to preload the countergear by 0.003", which eliminates oscillation induced failures common with the stock stamped retainer.  The mainshaft should get the same preload.  Its not going to magically make the gears stronger, or eliminate mainshaft flex, but it will be better than stock.  In the right application it can mean the difference between survival and breakage. 

Took the 5.0 roller block to the machine shop today to have vatted/cleaned, new freeze plugs and cam bearings installed.  FedEx showed with my recent RockAuto order so once the block and heads are ready, it'll be build time.  I'm a little put out with RockAuto.......they didn't include any of their "magnets" with this order. Was hoping to add a few more to the collection adorning lid of my tool chest......maybe that 5 percent discount means........no magnets for you...
Yesterday, I started going through all the boxes of fastback parts the previous owner decided to remove years ago....I decided I'm going to "reassemble" as much as possible so I know what parts I have and what parts I may need.  Plus when we move, I'll either drive or winch a complete car on the trailer vs lugging boo-ku boxes of parts.   I'll tell ya, it's like a giant "snipe" hunt trying to find stuff that someone removed years ago.  Managed to install the tail light assemblies, headlight, ignition, wiper switches, cig lighter, and ash tray.  Rear valance and bumper are next, once I find the hardware as are the headlight buckets, grille, front bumper, yada, yada....