If you don't hook up the line from the exhaust manifold to the carb the choke won't work. 

IMO, I would throw that Autolite carb on eBay and buy an Edelbrock Performer intake and 1406 carb and be done with it.  The Edelbrock carbs run great out of the box, and are easy to tune.  Get your timing set properly and you will be amazed at how much power even a stock engine will put out. 

Welcome to the site. It's a great group of folks here.

I would go with an aluminum intake over a factory cast iron. Less weight, better performance, and probably easier to find.

If you have the carb, it's in descent shape, and you want to use it, then do so. I hear they are reliable, I've never worked with one. There was a thread on here not too long ago that addressed the sealing issues you are referring to, tips on how to correct, and how he actually fixed it.

For the choke tube, I agree with TKO that the choke won't work right without it. The original exhaust manifold should have a blind recess in it to accept the end of the tubing. I think it would be on the top side toward the back of the exhaust manifold. It's not supposed to penetrate to the inside passages to meet up with exhaust gases. You can google 67 Mustang choke tube and get some good images. After googling, my location was close. 

When I didn't have anything for connecting the tube at the exhaust manifold, I made a small box pattern from card stock that I could fold into shape with tabs for joining at the overlaps. Then transfer to sheet metal. I'm not a great welder, so I use sheet metal screws and pop rivets.

Secure to the manifold by the attaching bolts or stainless zip ties to the manifold itself. Just throwing out some options.

TKOPerformance wrote:

If you don't hook up the line from the exhaust manifold to the carb the choke won't work. 

IMO, I would throw that Autolite carb on eBay and buy an Edelbrock Performer intake and 1406 carb and be done with it.  The Edelbrock carbs run great out of the box, and are easy to tune.  Get your timing set properly and you will be amazed at how much power even a stock engine will put out. 

Thanks for the reply. What engine are you running your 1406 carb on? Is there a difference between the performer and the avs series carbs?

Thanks TKO and Bolted for the extra information regarding the choke tube. After googling 67 mustang like suggested, i checked on my car and indeed find where mine used to be. It appears as if the previous owner either removed it or it fell because it looks clean, no breaks or plugged at the exhaust manifold.

The more i think about it, I prob will end up just going with the eddie carb and intake. I found the Autolite rebuilt at a local performance swap meet in long beach last weekend, but i'm pretty sure I can sell it.

Just a note I don't think was mentioned.
The Autolite carb cannot be bolted directly to the factory cast iron intake without the aluminum plate that goes between it and the manifold.  The plate covers the vacuum passages on the carb that are open to atmosphere without it.  It pretty much won't run without it.

Some older aluminum intakes had a minimalist mounting surface for the carbs and also exposed vacuum passages.  Most modern aluminum intakes that you would be buying new will have a large flat surface that won't cause any problems.


This is an older Edelbrock F4B aluminum manifold.  Note thinner sealing surfaces.



This is an newer version Edelbrock F4B aluminum manifold.  Note wider sealing surfaces.

Above is a modern aluminum intake.  Most makers have gone to this style mounting pad for the carb.  It does not cause problems.  Note: on ebay, you can buy this aluminum intake SHIPPED for around $125.  It has a no-name.  I have used two of them and they are very good quality.  I see no difference except NO NAME and SOMEONE ELSE PAID FOR THE RESEARCH.  They work fine.




This is a stock 289 cast iron intake, showing the voids.




This is the required spacer, or at least something similar.


 

I purchased an Autolite 4100 (1.12) from Pony Carburetors about 18 years ago and installed it on a 347. I removed all choke components to increase airflow and if I can find the choke tube, its yours. On the dyno, the car was lean and it was a simple task, all of ten minutes, to change jetting to correct the air/fuel ratio. Given my engine configuration, flywheel, pressure plate, etc. the Autolite does a fairly good job throughout the rpm range. I agree with previous posters that the Edelbrock is a good, easy to tune, carburetor.

I would be wary of a used Autolite for all of the reasons previously stated. If I were to do over, I would probably go with fuel injection. Considering your engine output, you might want to investigate something like a Fitech fuel injection system that you could probably install, with fuel pump and fuel lines for less than $1000. I don't know the cost of an Edelbrock carb, but by the time you purchase the carb, fittings, tuning components and add in your time, and perhaps dyno time,  to tune, you might approach the cost of installing fuel injection. Good luck on whatever you decide.

MS wrote:

Just a note I don't think was mentioned.
The Autolite carb cannot be bolted directly to the factory cast iron intake without the aluminum plate that goes between it and the manifold.  The plate covers the vacuum passages on the carb that are open to atmosphere without it.  It pretty much won't run without it.

Some older aluminum intakes had a minimalist mounting surface for the carbs and also exposed vacuum passages.  Most modern aluminum intakes that you would be buying new will have a large flat surface that won't cause any problems.


This is an older Edelbrock F4B aluminum manifold.  Note thinner sealing surfaces.



This is an newer version Edelbrock F4B aluminum manifold.  Note wider sealing surfaces.

Above is a modern aluminum intake.  Most makers have gone to this style mounting pad for the carb.  It does not cause problems.  Note: on ebay, you can buy this aluminum intake SHIPPED for around $125.  It has a no-name.  I have used two of them and they are very good quality.  I see no difference except NO NAME and SOMEONE ELSE PAID FOR THE RESEARCH.  They work fine.




This is a stock 289 cast iron intake, showing the voids.




This is the required spacer, or at least something similar.


 

Thanks for the detailed message with all of the photos, they're a good reference. The intake with the no name, is it sold by summit or how would i go about searching for it on ebay? Thanks

I have a 4100 on my 65 coupe and I'm running an alum intake from Ford Performance.  If you care to look it up, the part number is: M-9424-F302.  A tad bit more $$ then the ones MS mentioned but, another option for you none the less.  I shopped around and got it on sale......

I have1966 Ranchero with a 302 out of a 1975 Granada. When I put the engine in I replaced the intake with an aluminum one from Edelbrock and a Edelbrock 600 I had used on a 351. Now I am not as talented with carbs as several of the guys here and never could make the the car like I wanted. Bought a 1406 500 and right out of the box ran great only thing I had to change was the idle adjustment. That was 5 years ago and still runs great. 

TKOPerformance wrote:

ponyboy65 wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

If you don't hook up the line from the exhaust manifold to the carb the choke won't work. 

IMO, I would throw that Autolite carb on eBay and buy an Edelbrock Performer intake and 1406 carb and be done with it.  The Edelbrock carbs run great out of the box, and are easy to tune.  Get your timing set properly and you will be amazed at how much power even a stock engine will put out. 

Thanks for the reply. What engine are you running your 1406 carb on? Is there a difference between the performer and the avs series carbs?

A-code 289 (factory 4 barrel, hydraulic lifter).

The primary difference I believe is that the AVS series has vacuum secondaries whereas the Performer series has mechanical secondaries.  I prefer mechanical secondaries, especially with a manual transmission.  Potentially easier to tune, though I've not heard of anyone really having tuning issues with the AVS series carbs. 

I get the low cost on the eBay manifolds, but let's consider what we're really supporting.  That manifold is clearly an Edelbrock knock off, so the company that paid for the research did so in America, with American workers, and also builds their prodcuts in America.  The company making it is 1000% located in China, and essentially stole Edelbrock's intellectual property, and due to international patent laws aren't going to be held accountable for it.  At some point, the rubber has to meet the road when we say that we want to buy American products so Americans work.  American products cost more, but I'd rather pay more and support our own than send my money to a communist nation who's been robbing us blind for decades while masquerading as out friend.  Sorry, don't mean to get preachy and/or political, but its something that matters to me, and hopefully to y'all as well. 
 

I won't argue against the BUY AMERICAN vibe. One attraction of those manifolds, other than cost, is the absence of advertising cast into it.  It has no lettering, which I like.
 

If the engine is stock along with stock exhaust manifolds, going to a 4V carb will probably give modest improvement wether a stock cast iron or aluminum. It will only show big improvement if the current intake is a significant point of restriction to air flow. That includes the heads, cam and exhaust system. If you plan on making improvement to the heads, either porting the stock or aftermarket, better cam, free flowing exhaust, then you’ll see a big improvement.
M
I’ve been running Edelbrock carbs for years. They’re very forgiving and usually will run smoothly even if horribly mis matched for the motor. I had a worn out 71 302, stock exhaust manifolds, single exhaust. When I put the motor in for chuckles I put a 66 cast iron 4V intake along with a used 600 Edelbrock. Despite this poorly matched set up, it ran smooth. It was a dog but it ran smooth. The 4100 1.08 Venturi is a great carb with it’s annular boosters. However they are getting harder and harder to find in unmolested constructions with the correct parts. A lot of them are a mishmash of parts. The Summit carb is very much based off the 4100 with the same important features. I would check them out as well. The 500 cfm would be ideal.

Another reason to stick with a USA made intake. While the outside of the offshore version looks the same, it’s the shape and casting quality of the runners. They tend to have sharper bends and intersections with rougher casting textures. Check out YouTube. One person had a Chinese Wieand that he kept having sealing problems with the intake to head gasket surfaces warping. He traced it to thin casting around the bolt bosses on the intake. It was allowing the intake to warp when torqued to specs and leak.

When I had a 289 in my 68 with Tri-y headers and  4100 carb I made this clamp on choke stove, I used an O/E filter inside of it. I bent some stainless tube from it up to the two ports on the  4100.
 I worked as good as the the one on the old cast iron manifold.
 My 4100 was restored by John Enyeart T Pony ncarbs, sadly he is gone as is Pony Carbs.

Last edited by Rudi (3/25/2019 10:40 AM)