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Of late I've been struggling with flaring brake steel lines getting a nice double flare AND bending the line in position.
In my previous life as a welder I welded plenty of carbon steel...stainless(all kinds) and nickel copper pipe.
Anywho...in my aging "braings" for some reason I mistook Ni Cu for Cu Ni brake lines. I was think'in if these steel lines are hard to bend I bet the Ni Cu ones are REALLY tough to bend.(Ni Cu is hard like stainless!)
After looking on YouBoob about how to flare brake lines the light can on in my "braing cavity"!
Cu Ni is soft and EZ'r to bend than steel! Duh!
Gonna go "get-me-some-uh-dat" and hopfully make the lines nice and tight AND seal good!
6sal6
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Don’t be too hard on yourself, flaring brake lines is a real PIA for me too.
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Mike, be sure to follow MS's advice and DO NOT over do the second step of the double flare praocess. Bring it down just enough to form the flare and make a little seat for the fitting to seat to. Then when you pull it down into the fitting with the nut the flare will be finish formed and will seat and seal to the fitting.
I started doing this and have yet to have another leak. In fact, I had two factory-formed flares leak on new tubing last week and re-made the pieces with my own flares...no leaks.
BB
Last edited by Bullet Bob (2/24/2019 7:02 PM)
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Bullet Bob wrote:
Mike, be sure to follow MS's advice and DO NOT over do the second step of the double flare praocess. Bring it down just enough to form the flare and make a little seat for the fitting to seat to. Then when you pull it down into the fitting with the nut the flare will be finish formed and will seat and seal to the fitting.
I started doing this and have yet to have another leak. In fact, I had two factory-formed flares leak on new tubing last week and re-made the pieces with my own flares...no leaks.
BB
BB is right. This method always works. O'reilly's has a really good flaring tool for rent if you have one near you. I liked it so much, I bought it.
Best of luck.
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I have this flaring tool
makes a perfect flare every time. Only down side is you have to completely remove the line to flare it as it is to bug to use under the car.
eastwood brake flaring tool
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Bought that one when it was on sale a couple of years ago, Day. You are correct, it is a really fine piece of equipment. Does perfect bubble flairs too.
BB
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Back when I was doing flares on refrigerant lines I wouldn't tighten the flaring tool completely. Just let the nut form it to the body.
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On that fancy flare tool, how does it work if the flare is at the end of a tight radius bend?
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MS wrote:
On that fancy flare tool, how does it work if the flare is at the end of a tight radius bend?
If it's closer than about 1 1/4" you'll want to flare first, bend later. Or as I had to do the other day, straighten a bit, flare, re-bend.
BB
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Fancy took needs about 2” of straight line for the clamping blocks.
I have that exact same tool, Summit also sell it. Pretty much the best thing since sliced bread.
I mock up a line with solid wire to get the length, cut and flare the line, then bend if there are bends that need to be at the ends of the line.
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If you need it tighter than that you can get closed spring type tool that slides around the outside of the tube. Flare it first. If the other end is already done your outaluck.
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Or, if you need a bend to go all the way up against the tube nut, you can use the cupro-nickle tubing, put your flare and nut on tube, then use just the grooved mandrel of your tubing bender and your fingers to bend the tubing right up to the nut.
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Daze, BB,
I have one of those fancy flaring tools too, and I love it. I have found that there is a fair amount of technique involved though. The tubing must be cut exactly square and both the inside and outside of the tubing must be chamfered. A drop of lubrication helps too. I learned the hard way to have a gentle hand when flaring the cupro-nickle tubing. That long lever arm on the flaring tool will squish that soft tubing in a heartbeat if you get too muscular with the lever arm.
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Ron, I've never used the cupro-nickle tubing but I started using the green poly coated tubing years ago. It can be bent very nicely using the method you suggest or even via the two-thumbs method. I get perfect no-leak flares on this stuff with my Fancy Tool.
BB
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Here's the fancy tool I got a coupla years ago .... it's still brand new.
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Barry,
Oohh! Hydraulic! You can really squish tubing with that one.
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Knowing my luck ... it's probably easy to over-squish as well .... but it is fancy.
Also got some 37* dies as well.
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Regarding making double-flairs with CU-NI brake lines. Just finished using CU-NI 3/16 line for the first time. I've made double-flairs on steel and SS lines in the past w/o issues, although the SS tubing went much better using a lubricant. Back to my point, I had leaks with the CU-NI, had to re-do several flairs and believe there were two issues ...
I always used a small file to make the chamfer, using this on the CU-NI I believe that I removed too much material and this likely made the tube too "thin", and I was too aggressive by cranking down on the flair tool too much. I believe these two items flattened out the flair too much to get the seal required in the fitting.
So, after watching a YouTube video, I used emery instead of the file, and did not crank down as hard on the flair tool. These items allowed the new flair to be "thicker" and to seat the "soft" Cu-NI tubing better into the fitting, and produced a no-leak seal.
Hope this helps.
Oh, and the CU-NI tubing is much much easier to bend and work with than the SS tubing.
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6SALLY6 YOU DONT NEED NO BRAKES JUST GEAR IT DOWN AND SLIDE IT SIDEWAYS.
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Required for operation:
1: An automatic transmission and functional brakes
OR
2. A manual transmission and a functional horn
I actually drove my Jeep without brakes for quite some time (not on the road, trails only). I found that with proper planning, and only running in 4Low, I could downshift into first, double clutch into reverse, and ease the clutch out to effectively stop it wherever I wanted.
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TKO, I'd like to understand how one would double-clutch into reverse while the car is moving forward.
I understand double-clutching, spinning the transmission gears so that they match RPM so the gears will mesh. However, going in the forward direction the driveshaft would be turning the transmission output shaft in the opposite direction needed to engage the reverse gear, which must be physically moved into place (non-constant mesh) to engage the output shaft. Unless the transmission cluster gear is fully stopped, how can the reverse gear mesh? And how would double-clutching, which would turn the cluster gear in the forward direction, help this tricky maneuver?
Anyway, even on dirt, I would imagine this would put an enormous strain on the entire drivetrain, my hat is off to you for doing it … did you ever break anything?
TKOPerformance wrote:
Required for operation:
1: An automatic transmission and functional brakes
OR
2. A manual transmission and a functional horn
I actually drove my Jeep without brakes for quite some time (not on the road, trails only). I found that with proper planning, and only running in 4Low, I could downshift into first, double clutch into reverse, and ease the clutch out to effectively stop it wherever I wanted.
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