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I have a 1965 mustang v8 coupe. I am completely rewiring my entire car. I have up graded to a 3g alternator. With 175 amp fuse 0/1 gauge cable new mini starter. I have upgraded to pertronix ignition..
I was hoping you guys can help sort me out on these last few things. This way maybe I'll get it started here soon.
I have my green with red wire on the alternator that needs a resistor soldered in and a light as well. Can I rewire it so it can use my old yellow with black stripe I made the mistake of wiring it in to. My. New harness before I decided to change to the 3g alternator.
What ohm resistor will work best? Also what do I do with the pink resistor wire that was in the old harness?
.
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I don't have a 65 wiring diagram handy but my Falcon diagram indicates that the yellow/black wire was used from the Gen light to the voltage regulator so if it's the same on the 65 Mustang...and I suspect it was...it should work just fine since it gets switched power from the Accessory lug of the Ign. switch.
The resistor you are talking about needs to parallel the Alternator lamp you are adding. The reason is that if the lamp burns out the Alternator will still receive the potential from the Ign. switch and keep working. IIRC, a 560 ohm resistor is recommended.
As an aside, if you decide to use an LED as an Alternator light you will probably need to get tricky...at least I did. The LED requires so little potential difference to fire that mine was on all the time even though the alternator was working fine. Since I has already added the LED to my speedo I didn't want to try to change to an incandescent bulb so I used a relay to switch the Alternator LED. More trouble but it's a simple circuit if you go that way.
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Last edited by Bullet Bob (4/19/2019 6:51 AM)
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True74yamaha wrote:
I have a 1965 mustang v8 coupe. I am completely rewiring my entire car. I have up graded to a 3g alternator. With 175 amp fuse 0/1 gauge cable new mini starter. I have upgraded to pertronix ignition..
I was hoping you guys can help sort me out on these last few things. This way maybe I'll get it started here soon.
I have my green with red wire on the alternator that needs a resistor soldered in and a light as well. Can I rewire it so it can use my old yellow with black stripe I made the mistake of wiring it in to. My. New harness before I decided to change to the 3g alternator.
Where is the other end of that yellow/black, #37 on the diagram in the link, wire going on your car? Ford sent it to the solenoid. Might be better off changing the wires. Down the road when this is not so fresh on your mind, you may have difficulty figured out what you did years earlier and cussing about why I did I do that.....been there, done that.
If you have a wiring diagrams or instructions as part of your new harness, follow them as closely as possible and make comments on them for any changes. 6 Month later, I couldn't tell you where half those wires went on my car. The instruction manual that came with my Painless kit is not what's on their site today. They have made changes, so keep whatever instructions you have, they may not be available later. I try to keep maintenance and repairs in mind for the things I do, cause its I could be the guy doing it.
What ohm resistor will work best?
According to the wring diagram I found online for the conversion, use a 560 Ohm resistor. I installed it in parallel with the bulb. My system works as it should. Google for 130 Amp 3G Alternator for 1965 Mustang. It should bring up the diagram.
Also what do I do with the pink resistor wire that was in the old harness?
Can't really help here. It was my understanding that it was needed for points ignition systems.
.
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Bolted to Floor wrote:
True74yamaha wrote:
I have a 1965 mustang v8 coupe. I am completely rewiring my entire car. I have up graded to a 3g alternator. With 175 amp fuse 0/1 gauge cable new mini starter. I have upgraded to pertronix ignition..
I was hoping you guys can help sort me out on these last few things. This way maybe I'll get it started here soon.
I have my green with red wire on the alternator that needs a resistor soldered in and a light as well. Can I rewire it so it can use my old yellow with black stripe I made the mistake of wiring it in to. My. New harness before I decided to change to the 3g alternator.
Where is the other end of that yellow/black, #37 on the diagram in the link, wire going on your car? Ford sent it to the solenoid. Might be better off changing the wires. Down the road when this is not so fresh on your mind, you may have difficulty figured out what you did years earlier and cussing about why I did I do that.....been there, done that.
If you have a wiring diagrams or instructions as part of your new harness, follow them as closely as possible and make comments on them for any changes. 6 Month later, I couldn't tell you where half those wires went on my car. The instruction manual that came with my Painless kit is not what's on their site today. They have made changes, so keep whatever instructions you have, they may not be available later. I try to keep maintenance and repairs in mind for the things I do, cause its I could be the guy doing it.
What ohm resistor will work best?
According to the wring diagram I found online for the conversion, use a 560 Ohm resistor. I installed it in parallel with the bulb. My system works as it should. Google for 130 Amp 3G Alternator for 1965 Mustang. It should bring up the diagram.
Also what do I do with the pink resistor wire that was in the old harness?
Can't really help here. It was my understanding that it was needed for points ignition systems.
.
Awesome thank you Bullet Bob. I guess since the resistor wire was only used for the points and since I dont have them ( I have pertronix) I do not need the Resistor wire? Also I am planning on going with LED bulbs so is there a certain way I'll need to wire the alternator dummy light indicator?
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As I said, the LED Alternator light wanted to stay on all the time and I determined that it was due to the LED firing at a very low potential difference between the alternator and the Ign. switch. What I did is wire in a relay using it's coil as the light filament and letting the relay switch 12V from the Ign. switch to turn on the LED.
As follows: Relay pin 86 to Ign. Accessory. Relay pin 85 to Alternator (via the green/red wire or yellow/black in your case). Relay pin 30 to Ign. switch Accessory. Relay pin 87 to LED pos. LED neg. to ground. When the alternator is not charging the relay will close and energize the LED. When voltage comes up on the alternator the relay coil will behave just like an incandescent lamp...no current flow...and the relay will open.
You can also put a 560 ohm RX parallel to relay pins 85/86 if you want insurance against the relay coil opening.
I thought you were talking about the RX in the alternator light ckt...not the "Pink Wire" RX.
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Last edited by Bullet Bob (4/19/2019 8:09 AM)
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Pink wire is there to maintain + - 9V on the coil during normal operation as the stock coil was not made to operate at 12-14 volts. If you are running an after market coil that needs 12 volts you need to remove/bypass the pink wire. Just for info, that's why the stock system included the brown wire from the "I" lug on the solenoid. That bypassed the pink wire during starting and supplied full battery voltage to the coil during start up only.
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Last edited by Bullet Bob (4/20/2019 7:19 AM)
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Wow it never ceases to Amaze me on how knowledgeable you are on wiring. I'm not stupid on wiring and I am still learning a lot. But geez you are Smart Sir.
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Wow my bad I just realized I mixed up for a sec and got my colors all backwards. Between my last few circuits.lol. so over the winter and just till recently I have been working on my stang. I have removed the headlight,engine,charging,and Dash wiring harness. I have relocated my main interior fuse box inside the glove box.
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