So you are running that master without the booster now?  

The lines existing on the driverside makes it very difficult to reach anything on the driver side of the engine like plug wires, plugs, header gaskets etc.

I may just install it as a unit and then reroute my lines a bit so that I can reach under master to get to things like the plugs.

1fststang wrote:

So you are running that master without the booster now?  

The lines existing on the driverside makes it very difficult to reach anything on the driver side of the engine like plug wires, plugs, header gaskets etc.

I may just install it as a unit and then reroute my lines a bit so that I can reach under master to get to things like the plugs.

Yes, it's currently on my 69 without a booster, which makes access to the plugs not too difficult.
 

I have everything test fit in place. Factory Bendix booster, 92 ranger master cylinder, wilwood combo/prop valve plus modern driveline clutch and ring brothers hood hinges.

Looks real nice and neat. Made a bracket to hold wildwood prop valve on master cylinder studs.

Problem is access to driverside rear of engine. When I need to change plugs, header bolts,gaskets etc.

Just not a lot of room in the area for all the components I have.

Re-thinking this and considering making some changes. May leave as is for now until the car is finished and come back to it but would be nice to finish it up permanently.

Was thinking last night maybe I ditch the wilwood combo/ Prop valve and use a small adjustable rear prop valve and maybe a different junction block for the front like I have on my coupe.  I think those items could mound under the hinge and on the inner fender. If I run lines with access in mind I think I could gain some access.  

if I go this route what junction block do I need since its 4 wheel disc?  I think the brake kit for my coupe just had like a block/ t that split the one line to 2 but can't find it online anywhere.
 

Your right about the overthinking. I am definitely a member of that club.  lol  still need to find a location for the small reservoir for the hydraulic cluch.

Contrary to popular opinion, I have found that a MC with the ports on the engine side actually makes for more spark plug access.  I route the lines immediately under the mc and then to the front of the MC before heading down to the proportioning valve mounted low on the inner fender.  This effectively makes a huge hole under the MC where you can get your hand under there for plug changes.  Sounds backwards but it works out great.  This is on my 66 with 427 CI Windsor in it.  It has a power booster also.

I started out dreading the fact the MC ports were on the engine side, but was pleasantly surprised when I was able to create that large access area.  You cannot do that with driver side ports.

BUT, the 92 Ranger is a great MC choice!  It works very well with 1.0" bore and ports on fender side.

As much as I like the bracket I made and painted that mounts the valve right next to the master on the same studs I think i'm going to try and rework this set up.

I'm going to see if I can mount the wilwood valve much lower under the master against the inner apron and make two new lines and when I bend them up make sure I have access to get an arm.  Just playing with it this morning I think it is possible to use these components and still have decent access.

Everything I have done has been to be functional, look nice but also be decent for serviceability.

I might be able to also rotate the wilwood valve 180 degrees so that the two lines from the master don't have to cross each other.  Front master cylinder to front of valve, rear master line to rear of valve,

Might not look as nice as it does now but if I can accessibility that's most important.