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Hi everyone,
Does anyone have some direction to changing over to a new one wire 100 amp alt. I have a 65 w/289 on accessory's so I know the output is low and want to upgrade because of AC, ele fan. Any ideas or suggestions. I guess what i think is, can I remove the regulator and connect the alt + to the battery and connect the ing switch to battery + ?
Is there a way with exciting wires, or do I just need to rewire? a drawing would help?
Chris
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I don't know that a one wire description is accurate, but try this link.
This is what I used to upgrade my car and yes, the voltage regulator can be removed. I installed a smaller main fuse than what the illustration shows. I would also recommend a type GXL wire with good crimp connections that can be bought in various lengths from places like Wirebarn to go from the alternator back to the solenoid and battery. The insulation on the welding cable that some folks use is not rated for the under hood heat.
My car has an alternator lamp, I installed the resistor from the illustration and the system works properly. I have no experience with an amp or voltage gauge. I do know that a 3G can produce more amperage than the Amp gauge can safely handle leading to damage of your wiring.
It was trial and error on belt squeal until I bought a HiPo large diameter pulley. Since then, no more belt squeal. I took the pulley and alternator to the machine shop and asked him to make it fit!! The back side was clearanced so the pulley would not hit the case before it bottomed out on the shaft. The front recess for the retaining nut was deepened to allow for a full nut when tight. $25 later, I was good to go.
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I would try pa performance 3G alternators ,with the kit that ties in the old harness in so your ALT light still works. I have that setup and works beautifully!
excite wire is connected to a keyed 12v source. your old alternator has that in the stock harness.. or connect any keyed wire. Its VERY simple..
I love having ability to keep ALT light on. and having the big 1 ga wire with the fuse too , so i am not overheating the old small wires. You will need to upgrade the wire from alternator to battery too.
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here is all you need
as posted by Alesandro .. you can source these parts from wherever you find them cheapest. PA performance is a great company and awesome customer support
Last edited by Gaba (5/21/2019 12:29 PM)
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I'll second PA Performance. I used their alternator and install kit as well. Works great, no issues, still looks very close to stock as well.
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I realise you are probably asking about a GM 10 Si type alt.
But I second everyone's suggestions of a 3G. 95 amp for v belts, 130 amp for serpentine.
The PA Performance dummy regulator is used to keep an ammeter functional on a 5 gauge cluster .... even then, I'd use a voltmeter instead.
Last edited by 50vert (5/21/2019 4:36 PM)
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I definitely would not use a 10Si alternator. They were good in their day, but the 3G is a much more modern design, and fits stock bracketry without modification.
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OK thats what I needed going with the PA system, new question has anyone had problems keeping the V grove belt from slipping with a 130A?
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For a 130A alternator you are going to need two V belts. They used to sell matched twin belts, but I don’t think they are available anymore.
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3G is the way to go. I am running mine using a 289 Hipo pulley to reduce belt slip. It never slips except a slight squeal at startup, which is way preferable to the dead Optimas I kept replacing. (Due more to some bad connections rather than a bad original alternator)
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Cab4word67 wrote:
OK thats what I needed going with the PA system, new question has anyone had problems keeping the V grove belt from slipping with a 130A?
Hi, i got v belt , with ac ,ps,alt + and except initial start squeaking there are no issue , BUT anyway i suggest for serpentine belt , if you can / want choose .
you will have less trouble in future finding right v belt size
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