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5/27/2019 2:00 PM  #1


hydraulic clutch and throw out bearing

Can anyone offer some help with bleeding of Master Driveline hydraulic clutch with a Tilton hydraulic throw-out bearing?  I had to replace a rear main seal on my '65 with a 351 motor and top loader 4 speed.  I only disconnected the supply line at the master cylinder whenever I removed the bell housing and lost very little fluid when I did it.  After I got it all back together, now I have no clutch.  I bled it the way I originally did, and the way they told me, but still no clutch.  I did it seven time and then called Master Driveline and they sold me a one-man bleeder kit to bleed the system.  After trying it 4 more times, still have no clutch.  I have gravity bled it first and got good flow through the bleed line. I made special precautions to make sure neither of the lines from the throw-out bearing weren't kinked when I stabbed the tranny.  Now I wish I would have went with a different way to release the clutch.  Rear deep in the rabbit hole now.  Any suggestions?


"when I drop something, it always goes to center of the car"
 

5/27/2019 3:24 PM  #2


Re: hydraulic clutch and throw out bearing

I had similar issues with mine last year before the Bash. Spent way too many hours jacking with it. In the end, after watching all the videos I could find and reading the help tips, I held the clutch pedal to the floor with a piece of wood and used a mighty Vac hand vacuum pump under the car to pull fluid through the system. Each time I came back up to fill the master, I cycled the clutch pedal. It took a while and I used over a quart of brake fluid. Just make sure you don’t let the reservoir go dry. Try to keep the car level too.

It probably ain’t the right way, but it worked!!


John  -- 67 Mustang Coupe 390 5 speed
 

5/27/2019 4:16 PM  #3


Re: hydraulic clutch and throw out bearing

I don't know anything about hydraulic clutches but I do know about single side brakes on airplanes which I think is the same as a clutch because it is one brake/master cylinder and one wheel/slave cylinder.  Fill it from the bottom at the slave with an oil pump can up to the resivoir. Put a clear hose on it so you can see the fluid going into it. Don't let the pump run out of fluid or pump air into the system. That is why the clear hose. If the pump is bigger than the resivoir you should win or fill it back up before it runs out. If not you probably need to reseal one or both. If you have a helper he should see the air being forced out at the resivoir. I never needed a helper, when the resivoir was full or over flowing I was done.


70, ragtop 351W/416 stroker Edel Performer heads w pro flow 4, Comp roller 35-421-8. T5
 

Board footera


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