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I have install the new 620 springs and want to get my ft end alined. Would it be in my best intrest to go with the Shelby Drop specs or just have les Shaub do there thing? Or can I set it up close with a level and a frameing squsre. and give it 1/8" toe in?
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Cab4word67 wrote:
I have install the new 620 springs and want to get my ft end alined. Would it be in my best intrest to go with the Shelby Drop specs or just have les Shaub do there thing? Or can I set it up close with a level and a frameing squsre. and give it 1/8" toe in?
Shelby alignment is:
-1* camber
1/16-1/8 toe in
+3* caster
Have you done the drop yet? You did not say. Save the new alignment for after doing the drop. It is one of the best things you can do for your handling and tire wear.
Don't don't use any other specs. That works best.
I would never let one of those national tire places touch my alignment. They many times do not know what they are doing. Their alignment specs are based upon bias ply tires and stock a-arm location. Try to find an old school alignment place or one who will do what you want them to do. Many here do their own successfully. I tried and failed miserably. I happen to have a shop that knows about the Shelby drop and aligns to the proper specs. Also, after installing a Monte Carlo bar and Export brace, my alignment almost never changes. They firm up the front end to eliminate aging sag.
Last edited by lowercasesteve (5/29/2019 11:01 PM)
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You can run 0.5 degrees negative camber, and it still handles better than the stock setup with 1.5 degrees negative.
As much positive caster as you can get, probably going to be maxed at 3.5-3.75 degrees positive. I prefer 0.25-0.5 degrees more on the RH side to account for the road crown and keep the car tracking straight.
1/8" total toe in, so 1/16" per side, BUT you need to make sure the steering center link is centered first. I advise starting with both tie rods the same length, then adjust evenly until you get the desired toe spec. You can't go by where the steering wheel is centered, all too often they've been moved over the years and lost their factory zero. Once everything is right you can reclock the wheel so its centered.
My recommendation is invest is one of the home tools and learn to do it yourself. Its not that hard, and you never have to wonder if the shop did it right. For the price of 2.5 alignments I bought the tools I needed, and they've already paid for themselves.
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lowercasesteve wrote:
Cab4word67 wrote:
I have install the new 620 springs and want to get my ft end alined. Would it be in my best intrest to go with the Shelby Drop specs or just have les Shaub do there thing? Or can I set it up close with a level and a frameing squsre. and give it 1/8" toe in?
Shelby alignment is:
-1* camber
1/16-1/8 toe in
+3* caster
Have you done the drop yet? You did not say. Save the new alignment for after doing the drop. It is one of the best things you can do for your handling and tire wear.
Don't don't use any other specs. That works best.
I would never let one of those national tire places touch my alignment. They many times do not know what they are doing. Their alignment specs are based upon bias ply tires and stock a-arm location. Try to find an old school alignment place or one who will do what you want them to do. Many here do their own successfully. I tried and failed miserably. I happen to have a shop that knows about the Shelby drop and aligns to the proper specs. Also, after installing a Monte Carlo bar and Export brace, my alignment almost never changes. They firm up the front end to eliminate aging sag.
Most of those "kidz" that do alignments in those places just "plug-in" what ever the computer dictates. The new alignments do NOT allow an varience from what is in the computer....and the Shelby numbers are NOT in their computer.
(Maybe they are NOT smart enough to re program the computer ...are not interested)
Whata they care.....they just work there.
6s6
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For normal street driving, I prefer 0 degrees camber. Caster of +3 is great. I tried +5 and did not notice enough difference to have to deal with extra wear on lower control arm bushings.
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Well here I am again, after the rebuild of the motor I checked my alinement to find that replacing exhaust manifolds and cast intake with headers and a aluminum intake I had to remove 3/16" of shims to get my camber back. I cant believe how much lighter the car is.
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