I guess I need to fess up.  I've been using the T5 overhaul manual exploded view as an impromptu guide to put the thing back together. The view is a "pencil drawing" and not very clear. And the main shaft has a lot of extra unused splines on it. So I sat down with YouTube and found out I had already installed it. Just glad I finally found it.

I got the transmission together enough to run it through the gears. In neutral it turn freely. Shift it into first it sounds like something is dragging against the case and feels like the shaft might be bent. Just feels that way, it's not. It turns easy then hard then easy then hard. 2nd, 3rd, & 4th run real smooth but 5th and reverse lock it up. With my other things going on I need to put it away and probably won't be able to get back to it till after the bash.

I got back a little earlier than I expected so I had a chance to open it up and take a look at it. The input shaft was stuck to the main shaft. I pulled out the input shaft and re installed the spacer at the needle bearings. The noises went away but a new problem popped up as I ran it through the gears before putting the cover back on. The inserts that go into the 1-2 synchronizer are jamming the main shaft to the input shaft. They are slipping out of position and popping out too far and not going back into position when trying to move the slider into second. These inserts don't have the little lips on them or the provision in the hub to prevent them from doing that. Makes me think that I left out some parts or used the wrong blocking ring or synchronizer hub or have the slider facing the wrong way. (Champher to the front)

I've watched those videos several times and again last night. I was particularly interested in the inserts installation and he skipped right on past it. LOL  I got to thinking about all this and I have not yet installed the gear shift lever assembly. I put the offset lever on the shift rod holding it place with a loose screw and went about shifting it by hand when it jammed. I think I pushed it too far and that is what happens if you  push it to far and what will happen if you 11don't get the Pro 5.0 that TKO is talking about. The inserts are not the fault of it jamming.

The keys or "dogs" (three on each slider) for the 1/2 slider do not have lips on them; only the 3/4 keys have those.  When properly assembled the keys cannot move because there are three recesses in the synchro (blocker) rings into which the ends of the keys fit that keep them from being able to move fore and after.  The synchro rings are them held in position by the 1st and 2nd speed gears.  The keys are held outward by spring pressure from the round flat wire springs that go inside the synchro hub.  Those springs have a tang that goes into the back of one of the keys.  I make sure its a different key on the top vs. the bottom so all the pressure isn't on one key. 

The major benefit of the Pro 5.0 shifter is that it has positive stops.  Without those you risk moving the sliders too far and jamming them into the face of the speed gears.  This isn't going to hurt the slider, but the pressure you end up putting on the aluminum forks can cause them to bend, and then when you shift back the other way the fork will be bent back and fail.

This fork damage is only going to occur on a really fast, hard shift.  The OEM shifter has no stops, and yet fork breakage in a T5 is relatively rare, except those that are run hard.

The other benefit of the Pro 5.0 is that it removes all the rubber designed to reduce NVH (Noise/Vibration/Harshness) in a vehicle that had to meet Ford's acceptable levels of those.  That rubber creates a generally sloppy feeling in the shifter, making gear selection less precise.  In the end, there might be  a minor amount of additional noise transmitted through the shifter, but in a car that has a performance exhaust you aren't going to notice it, let alone a classic that makes considerably more noise than even a car from the '80s did. 

20 lbs/ft. is the correct torque, but those bolts need a sealer, and had threadlocker on them from the factory.  Over time, the bond that creates can actually pull the threads out of the case on disassembly.  This is why I just use a little silicone on those bolts instead of a locking compound. 
 

So am I correct to assume that you are using the Hurst shifter along with the Hurst lever? I would prefer  positive shifts and stops but the car is noisey enough already. Is Hurst the compromise?

TKOPerformance wrote:

I've never traced any noise to a Pro 5.0 shifter.  I certainly can't hear any in my '67.  Remember that all Ford's work was done on a car that was 100% stock.  The minute you add a performance exhaust 1/3 of their results become meaningless.  The minute you change the tires from OE another 1/3 is meaningless.  The minute you change shocks and spring rates the last 1/3 is meaningless.  So the real question is, how stock is your car? 

Sooooooooooo....that means most of US are in the negative column of "results"!?   Me...I'm like  -5 on the Ford "results" scale.
6sal6
 

I finished getting it together. I'll install it sometime after the Bash, first some observations and more questions.
  When turning it by hand I can not get into reverse. I know the clutch should be engaged and it shouldn't be turning but I think that as fast as Iam able to turn it it should go into gear. When it is stopped it is still hard to do unless I put it into another gear first but I expected that. It is supposed to have a reverse gear synchro. Am I expecting to much?
  I have a 1970, 302 flywheel, will it work on the 351W? I know the starter is compatable so I'm not worried about that, but I will have to get it balanced to match my crank and the flex plate it will replace. What about the clutch system? What size should I be using and how many throw out fingers? Why?
  I am planning on using the Z bar set up. Do I need one especially for the 351W or will the 302 Z bar fit? I have converted to Borgeson power steering, JBA shorty headers, and power brakes with a flatter bigger diameter type brake booster. Will the clutch push rod clear it or will I have to go back to the original booster?

I do not know for sure on your 70, but the Borgeson is usually a deal killer for a z-bar clutch linkage,  They cannot exist together on early cars.

The early 302 flywheel may need a starter from a manual transmission early 302.

Last edited by MS (6/07/2019 10:59 AM)