Here is a tip that will solve your problem, but it involves reflaring the line.

The secret is to not tighten the flare tool down tight when performing the-second function of the flare. About 1/2 turn is the most you should apply, once the cone touches the flare. If you tighten it real tight, you work-harden the inside of the flare and it will never seal.

By leaving the flare “not fully formed” you leave soft metal in the flare so the tube nut does the final forming in the fitting with very little tightening effort.

Also, if you are using those stainless steel tube nuts that came with Dennis’ kit, you have about a 1% chance of them working. They are undersized on the threads. Replace them with steel tube nuts from Fed-Hill, or OReillys or another USA made source.  When Michael at MustangSteve sells one of Dennis’ kits, he routinely replaces the chinese tube nuts with USA made before shipping the parts. And always throws away the preformed hoses for the mc and prop valve connections. They are made to be easy to install, but in my opinion do not look good and cause leakage issues. The rest of the CSRP front disc brake kit is top notch stuff, especially when matched with a MS power booster and pedal.

You'll need a fitting to mate a male fitting to a male fitting.  If they are the same size its just an inverted flare union.  If they aren't the same size still shouldn't be a problem so long as both are US thread.  Where it gets tough is going metric to US.  They exist, but it will take some looking online or a trip to a local hydraulic shop. 

NAPA by me still carries the old style silver line in addition to the new green stuff.  Paint also works wonders in a pinch. 

Thanks Steve and TKO, freshly bent lines using Steves flaring tips and we are all sealed up. Now 2 more questions.
1 We have an automatic. I don't want to share the vacuum for the booster with other things right. I have one that goes to the distributor front of carb, PCV to carb spacer and Trans from port on back of intake. Suggestions as to where or what ports should work best for what.
2 We did the Mustang Steve Pedal Pin and Bracket. The pedal seems quite high. Is that normal or should we do something to adjust it?
Thanks,
Q

Qstang wrote:

Thanks Steve and TKO, freshly bent lines using Steves flaring tips and we are all sealed up. Now 2 more questions.
1 We have an automatic. I don't want to share the vacuum for the booster with other things right. I have one that goes to the distributor front of carb, PCV to carb spacer and Trans from port on back of intake. Suggestions as to where or what ports should work best for what.
2 We did the Mustang Steve Pedal Pin and Bracket. The pedal seems quite high. Is that normal or should we do something to adjust it?
Thanks,
Q

Vacuum is vacuum.  The factory intake had a vacuum tee in the rear that provided vacuum for everything from the booster to the HVAC to the transmission modulator line.  Distributor advance vacuum should come off the carb, because there are two ways to connect it (timed or manifold) depending on whether or not the nipple you use is above or below the throttle blades.  There are pros and cons to both I suppose, but I've always just gone by which one made the engine run best. 
 

Regarding the vacuum modulator line, to prevent fuel condensate from collecting down at the modulator and gunking it up (been there, done that!) I would recommend running the modulator line from the intake port up high on the firewall and then down to the transmission. I don't have much firewall room on mine so I took a small 1/2" thick piece of aluminum plate and drilled two holes in it; one for a bolt to pass through to mount it on the intake and the other (at an angle) to hold a loop of metal tubing. It mounts right behind the carb with one end of the loop going to intake vacuum (rubber hose connection) and the other end is a rubber line that runs down to the modulator, so the loop is the only piece of metal line in place. I also tapped my vacuum gauge off of this line for the same reason (fuel vapor condensate). The top of the loop is about level with the top of the carb body and it tucks nicely behind everything.

It took some time for the modulator to gunk up and when it did I at first thought the modulator was shot. After 'pumping' the diaphragm and emptying the vacuum side I found that the modulator was fine and further research pointed me to the condensate problem and Ford's solution. I replaced the modulator and put the loop in place, problem solved!

I don't have a pic but I'll snap one and post it in a bit... and here ya go!

Last edited by 351MooseStang (6/21/2019 9:57 PM)

Too true... I never thought about it until the trans had problems shifting into 3rd. It would eventually go but it was really delayed. It turns out that the modulator can collect enough condensate to fill it and combined with the restriction of the adjustment screw, it ends up acting as a damper. I've seen many posts online about the vacuum modulator failing and being full of gunk but I'm betting a lot of those cases are the same as the one I had.

I like to examine why things fail and in doing so I quickly figured out the problem and came up with a solution that works. Plus it's fun when you get to make a quick item that solves a big problem!