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6/24/2019 10:00 PM  #1


color codes and engines

I have a 1965 Mustang with a 289 2 bl, Auto and I googled the paint colors for the engine and mine are different. I am the second owner and i recived the car at 120K. the first owner was the wife of the owner of the Fresno CA ford Dealership where the car was bought.new in 65. . When ever the car needed service it went there.I have a shoe box of service records, none talk about the motor being rebuilt?
heres my problem the motor is all dark blue and the gold valve covers are also blue. Site say the block is  black and the valve covers are gold, witch I can see where the paint has chiped. the pan looks like it was never black.  The air cleaner is gold and the snorkle is to be black but there is no signs it was ever anything but gold.
I have 132K now and it runs strong, no smoke does use oil and has 45-50 PSI oil presure.  How can I tell if this was ever rebuilt, or can I?


Slammed Big Blue, ran over the varmints that messed with the Stang. Now all is good in the NW
 

6/25/2019 4:20 AM  #2


Re: color codes and engines

No real way to tell if it was ever rebuilt.  If you are concerned about engine health do a compression test to see what state the rings are in.  If its got good compression I wouldn't worry about it.

If you really want to get into it you can drop the pan and check a bearing or two and see what they look like.  If they aren't down to the copper, again, I think its fine.

If it runs and idles well and seems to make good power its likely in fine running order for what it is.

 

6/25/2019 6:57 AM  #3


Re: color codes and engines

My San Jose ‘65 coupe, 289, 2v had entire intake gold.  As for block color, I don’t remember.  As for rebuilt engine, if you can scope or drop pan and look at timing gear set.  Original has nylon teeth.  Ask me how I know...bent valves due to timing chain stretch.

 

6/25/2019 12:40 PM  #4


Re: color codes and engines

Look at some Google images of 65 Mustang engines.  65's should have gold valve covers, and gold air cleaner with black snorkel.  Next time you are under it, pull the starter and decode the engine block's date code.  That's what I did, which explains why my 65 has gold tins and black intake manifold on a blue block..... the block has a 1966 date code.....

 

6/25/2019 8:04 PM  #5


Re: color codes and engines

Thank you that is what I will do next time we are up in the air. it just seems to me that it runs to good for 130K. I dont ever remimber a SBC doint this. But maybe fords can


Slammed Big Blue, ran over the varmints that messed with the Stang. Now all is good in the NW
     Thread Starter
 

6/25/2019 8:12 PM  #6


Re: color codes and engines

Cab4word67 wrote:

Thank you that is what I will do next time we are up in the air. it just seems to me that it runs to good for 130K. I dont ever remimber a SBC doint this. But maybe fords can

I always installed a new motor at 200k miles whether it needed it or not.  One of them was subsequently  installed in a BMW and 5 years later was still running just fine.  My current has around 100k miles and a recent compression check showed around 155psi in all cylinders.  It does not burn oil either.
 


Original owner - 351w,T-5, 4whl disks, power R&P
 

6/26/2019 5:58 AM  #7


Re: color codes and engines

Engine longevity depends on a lot of things.  Typically 100+K out of a carbureted engine is a lot.  The problem with older engines is that carburetors produce less efficient air/fuel ratios and tend to wash down the cylinder walls with fuel, leading to accelerated rig wear as compared to the much more precise fuel metering you get with EFI.  Older engines also ran flat tappet cams and standard rockers, both of which create a lot of friction, and tend to accelerate wear, especially if maintenance isn't up to snuff. 

BUT, an engine that was well built at the factory that was diligently maintained can do surprising things.  I've seen carbureted gas engines last well over 200+K when they were properly maintained and the owner didn't drive like an idiot. 

 

6/26/2019 4:29 PM  #8


Re: color codes and engines

TKOPerformance wrote:

Engine longevity depends on a lot of things.  Typically 100+K out of a carbureted engine is a lot.  The problem with older engines is that carburetors produce less efficient air/fuel ratios and tend to wash down the cylinder walls with fuel, leading to accelerated rig wear as compared to the much more precise fuel metering you get with EFI.  Older engines also ran flat tappet cams and standard rockers, both of which create a lot of friction, and tend to accelerate wear, especially if maintenance isn't up to snuff. 

BUT, an engine that was well built at the factory that was diligently maintained can do surprising things.  I've seen carbureted gas engines last well over 200+K when they were properly maintained and the owner


                 didn't drive like an idiot. 

...................we ARE still talking about Mustang owners,  right?!!

6sally6 


Get busy Liv'in or get busy Die'n....Host of the 2020 Bash at the Beach/The only Bash that got cancelled  )8
 

6/26/2019 6:39 PM  #9


Re: color codes and engines

TimC wrote:

Look at some Google images of 65 Mustang engines.  65's should have gold valve covers, and gold air cleaner with black snorkel.  Next time you are under it, pull the starter and decode the engine block's date code.  That's what I did, which explains why my 65 has gold tins and black intake manifold on a blue block..... the block has a 1966 date code.....

Yep, things aren’t as fully “pure” from the factory as most of us would probably like. My dad bought a 65 coupe that had been traded in by the original owner in 1985. It was billed as a ‘64 1/2. It was actually an A code ‘65 with a lot of left over ‘64 1/2 parts. It got the A code for the engine but too early for disc brakes which had been ordered. A transition car. Like the car mentioned above a box of service records came with it.  The guy we eventually sold it to couldn’t get there fast enough.


'66 Fastback since July 27, 1981. Springtime Yellow, originally a 200 cu in, 4 speed. Also a '92 LX Coupe, 5.0, 5 speed.
 

6/27/2019 4:31 AM  #10


Re: color codes and engines

6sally6 wrote:

TKOPerformance wrote:

Engine longevity depends on a lot of things.  Typically 100+K out of a carbureted engine is a lot.  The problem with older engines is that carburetors produce less efficient air/fuel ratios and tend to wash down the cylinder walls with fuel, leading to accelerated rig wear as compared to the much more precise fuel metering you get with EFI.  Older engines also ran flat tappet cams and standard rockers, both of which create a lot of friction, and tend to accelerate wear, especially if maintenance isn't up to snuff. 

BUT, an engine that was well built at the factory that was diligently maintained can do surprising things.  I've seen carbureted gas engines last well over 200+K when they were properly maintained and the owner


didn't drive like an idiot. 

...................we ARE still talking about Mustang owners, right?!!

6sally6 

Driving fast isn't driving like an idiot.  I'm more talking about not jumping in the car, starting it, and laying rubber out of the garage while the engine is still cold.  I drive all my stuff hard, but it lasts because I don't beat on them when the engines are cold and am proactive with maintenance. 

 

6/27/2019 4:37 AM  #11


Re: color codes and engines

Muzz 66 wrote:

TimC wrote:

Look at some Google images of 65 Mustang engines.  65's should have gold valve covers, and gold air cleaner with black snorkel.  Next time you are under it, pull the starter and decode the engine block's date code.  That's what I did, which explains why my 65 has gold tins and black intake manifold on a blue block..... the block has a 1966 date code.....

Yep, things aren’t as fully “pure” from the factory as most of us would probably like. My dad bought a 65 coupe that had been traded in by the original owner in 1985. It was billed as a ‘64 1/2. It was actually an A code ‘65 with a lot of left over ‘64 1/2 parts. It got the A code for the engine but too early for disc brakes which had been ordered. A transition car. Like the car mentioned above a box of service records came with it. The guy we eventually sold it to couldn’t get there fast enough.

Boy is that ever true.  There are no had stop and start dates for stuff, and that hasn't changed.  My '06 F250 needed head gaskets (Diesel).  The 6.0 had two different heads, those with 18mm dowel pins and those with 20mm.  According to the truck's build date it had the 20mm heads.  Wrong, they were 18mm, and the heads had the larger injector hold down bolts which supposedly only the 20mm heads had.  I've owned the truck since new, so its not like the engine was ever swapped. 

 

11/29/2019 4:06 PM  #12


Re: color codes and engines

Need help reading the block code on my 65 289

top line     6L22
bottom     0     C5AE-6015E
Note this is blue also

 


Slammed Big Blue, ran over the varmints that messed with the Stang. Now all is good in the NW
     Thread Starter
 

11/29/2019 4:35 PM  #13


Re: color codes and engines

That appears to be a Dec 22, 1966 block date. If I am reading that code correctly.


Money you enjoy wasting is NOT wasted money... unless your wife finds out.
 

11/29/2019 9:12 PM  #14


Re: color codes and engines

MS wrote:

That appears to be a Dec 22, 1966 block date. If I am reading that code correctly.

Yep, Dec.22, 1966. Ford was building '67 models in Dec of '66.
 

 

11/30/2019 2:14 PM  #15


Re: color codes and engines

I believe “L” is November not December “M”.  “I” wasn’t used.
That’s what I recall.

http://www.stangerssite.com/steeringboxtagdecoder.html

Last edited by Nos681 (11/30/2019 2:17 PM)

 

11/30/2019 2:50 PM  #16


Re: color codes and engines

Previously quoted, "Driving fast isn't driving like an idiot". 

Depends on the circumstances, road conditions type of vehicle plus a plethora of other things to take into consideration.
 


Good work ain't cheap, Cheap work ain't good!   Simple Man
 

12/01/2019 4:48 PM  #17


Re: color codes and engines

Rudi wrote:

Previously quoted, "Driving fast isn't driving like an idiot". 

Depends on the circumstances, road conditions type of vehicle plus a plethora of other things to take into consideration.
 

That's the not being an idiot part.  Weather conditions, traffic, location, etc. all come into play.  Like anything in life there are stupid risks and calculated risks.  Driving without regard for hazards, obvious or potential is driving like an idiot.  Swerving in an out of traffic to try and gain position and having to stop at a toll booth because you don't have an EZ Pass is driving like an idiot.  Taking some turns fast on a backroad or running the car hard through the gears on a clear straight stretch of dry road is just driving fast. 

 

Board footera


REMEMBER!!! When posting a question about your Mustang or other Ford on this forum, BE SURE to tell us what it is, what year, engine, etc so we have enough information to go on.