The instructions you show do not match the instructions from Summit for the part number on the box.  Try this link and compare the two.  Seems like the one from Summit makes a lot more sense on the springs.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99607-1/media/instructions

GPatrick wrote:

The instructions you show do not match the instructions from Summit for the part number on the box.  Try this link and compare the two.  Seems like the one from Summit makes a lot more sense on the springs.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99607-1/media/instructions

 
Those instructions do seems different.. the springs aren’t colored the way that the online one says though. Colors on the one I posted coordinate the springs in the package .

I will reconfirm though that’s they didn’t mix the boxes contents

The instructions have it backwards.  They are saying to use the heaviest spring to bring the advance in soonest.  It should also be easy to look at the springs and tell which is lightest.  The smallest wire diameter will be the lightest spring.  Lightest springs will bring the advance in the soonest.  At what RPM it achieves full advance can only really be known by testing with a timing light.  The only reason to delay full advance would be if the engine was detonation sensitive, which if its low compression it likely isn't. 

Race cars run locked advance, and use a cranking timing delay in the ignition box to allow the engine to spin over easy and start. 

I am looking at various parts places and there seems to be a lot of options with distributor advance kits. Does anyone know what options best fit the Autolite distributor?
The adjustable vacuum advance is being recommended. Which one best fits the Autolite distributor?
Thanks,
 

Ok so I called crane cams! And read them the manual.. they admitted the manual was backwards ... so nice ! Lol

So he said , what he recommends is changing out both the springs to the lightest spring ..

The photo below shows you left to right heaviest to lightest springs .. bottom is the stock springs




By the way, the manual said that you may only need to change one of the springs (the heavier spring) with the light spring

Cause I have 6sally6 and cranecams telling me to use both light springs , I will go with that .

The copper (lightest) springs are about the same or teeny bit lighter than the light spring that the distributor had in it

I know if I have to go heavier I will start with changing one out to the stock light spring .

For now .. onward ... finding a tube ID 5mm and OD 8mm to fit the post to limit my 16L to a 10L

Soooooooo we all agree?!!!!!! Cool
I honestly don't know what my initial timing number is!  I set the total and let the initial 'fall-where-it-may'!
Even when hot and hot outside temp it spins over fine. Non-issue
6sal6

in the meantime, crane will continue to publish and issue their dyslexic manual...........nice catch Gaba.....
 

6sally6 wrote:

Soooooooo we all agree?!!!!!! Cool
I honestly don't know what my initial timing number is! I set the total and let the initial 'fall-where-it-may'!
Even when hot and hot outside temp it spins over fine. Non-issue
6sal6

I've contacted my pastor to see if hell froze over...

Stevo wrote:

Is anyone able to give me a part number of a kit that I can order? I am ready to roll on this

Scroll up you’ll see it . I posted a pic of the part number ..

The bushing is something you’ll need to fab yourself ...

6sal has used a cut push rod section as bushing and it worked ..

Last edited by Gaba (8/08/2019 5:03 PM)

Can hardly wait for a tune and road test!
I suggested to Gaba a steel nut might work good too. Find one that the hole will slide over the post then the sides can be ground down to give the measurement you need!
The more we brainstorm the better this thing is.
6sal6

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=light+weight+advance+springs&ref=nb_sb_noss

$5.99 + shipping!!!!
Great price
6s6

Regarding the advice on using the light springs and being good to go, there's a reason they put the different springs in a performance recurve kit. If the light springs were all that were needed then they wouldn't bother with the medium and heavy springs. A mechanical curve depends on lots of factors, air density/altitude, cam overlap & advance/retard, static/dynamic compression ratios and so on. There is no one size fits all for this (and I wish there was!).

As with any modifications that are performance related, test test test to find the best!

I have a 10.2 to1 351W w/ Erson HFII cam installed 4 degrees advanced, and have to run a medium and a light spring or I get spark knock at around 1800-2000 RPM at sea level, air temp above 70. It's brief if I am accelerating but I can bring it in and hold it there if I'm light on the throttle and under load in third gear, which is bad news if you aren't paying attention to it. Going with one medium delayed the advance enough to eliminate it, even at an air temp of 95. That's with 91 octane non-ethanol racing gas (as it says on my receipt to make me feel better about the price...lol).


Higher compression, tight LSA = heavier springs
Higher compression, wide LSA w/ advance = lighter springs
Lower compression, just about any cam = light springs

and so on and so on. Toss in the other variables and you can see that it's not so cut and dried for advance. Most of my work is in marine systems and you have to be very careful with modified timing curves on high performance marine engines and the constant loads they are under, so I'm a bit more tuned in to it than most mechanics are (no pun intended,,,lol). Bad timing in those situations costs big $$$ and will kill your reputation in a small shop, so you test, test, test...

Then you hand them the bill, the best part of the job!