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OK here we are again Its 91-92 right now in Portland. New rad ( 2 row 1" tubes all aluminum and LOL no room for electric fan LOL
So with the stock 4 blade 1" from rad we went for a drive. 180-175 in town to the freeway (2 miles) after car was warmed up and checked for leaks. 10 miles at 65MPH without AC it stayed at 180. Got off parked and checked for leaks again left running temp went up to 200. Back on freeway home temp droped back to 180 so on went the AC. We never got over 185 till I got off the freeway and temp started to go up so at 200 off went the AC temp started to fall and I was home.
Stock 4 blade and no shroud. I need a better steel fan and have a nice electric for sale
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6 blade SS fan or should I oppt for a 7 blade SS fan?
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This sucks installed new 7 blade fan temp is all over. 160-210. I can’t believe that with this rad it worked for one day with a 4 blade stock fan on hiway in 91 degrees just wouldn’t cool in stop go. Could a new start 180 stat stick open and then maybe closed. When I stoped and shut it off at 210 the upper hose was hard. And yes I have a spring in the new lower. Really bummed
Last edited by Cab4word67 (7/27/2019 7:30 PM)
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I would put the four blade back on and run it for a few days to make sure that you get the same results you did when you first ran it, then proceed. If by SS fan you mean the flex fan type, ditch it and run a fan/clutch combo. The flex fans flatten out too quickly and draw less air as the fan speed increases. At times the engine needs additional cooling at speed and with that fan it's not there. It's worse with a shroud as they flatten out they restrict air flow through the shroud at high speeds.
If you're not going a good electric fan, the fan/clutch combo is best.
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351MooseStang wrote:
I would put the four blade back on and run it for a few days to make sure that you get the same results you did when you first ran it, then proceed. If by SS fan you mean the flex fan type, ditch it and run a fan/clutch combo. The flex fans flatten out too quickly and draw less air as the fan speed increases. At times the engine needs additional cooling at speed and with that fan it's not there. It's worse with a shroud as they flatten out they restrict air flow through the shroud at high speeds.
If you're not going a good electric fan, the fan/clutch combo is best.
100% agree with this.
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Will a factory 5 blade steely and shroud work?
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OK OK OK I have listened again,
Just ordered clutch fan, and a steel fan and shroud. Will take back SS flex crap this week. And put electric on E bay. But we did get to drive the car with the AC after fixing the T stat, we just stayed on the highway. Does anyone have a good recomendation for a 180 stat?
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I've always run Stant t-stats and had good luck. Just make sure it has that bleed hole, or add one.
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What was the LAST thing, if any, you did to the engine/cooling system before experiencing this cooling issue?
How many times has the cooling system puked its guts on the ground or into an overflow tank?
How are you accurately determining the temperature? Stock gauge, aftermarket gauge, laser, educated guess?
What AC system are you using?
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Do you have any boiling in radiator or overflow after engine is turned off?
Coolant level dropping?
Did distributor timing get changed by accident?
How consistent does temperature rise with air conditioner off?...( a little or a lot).
What is condition of radiator cap?..is it seating/sealing/ releasing properly/ correct pressure?
Just some ideas to look at as well.
Perform all baseline tests with a/c off. We know a/c will cause temperature rise.
When I upgraded my radiator years ago copper/brass (3 row close fin spacing) then recently (less than 10 years ago) to aluminum 2 row 1” tubes, I switched from 13# to 16# cap. I used 16# with both radiators without issues. I had replaced the heater core prior to radiator on first change out. I also added an external transmission cooler after the built in radiator transmission cooler as well afterwards to help prolong my transmission life. Never had cooling issues in 90+ temps and spirited driving, but I didn’t have a/c connected at the time.
Following is combo I had in Cali:
(‘65 coupe,289,4bb,C4,2.80 open,235/60/14, no a/c)
Last edited by Nos681 (7/29/2019 4:49 PM)
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The only thing I did is add Vintage are to a old stock 2 core. I added a new 2 core 1" tubes Champion alunimun and I use a laser and a new mech gauge mounted in the intake for temp readings. I have had no shroud. In one week we will have new stock shroud and new thermo clutch with 6 blade steel fan. I think we will work as we drove home from mountain with AC on and only went up 5 deg per trific light got to 205 and cleared all the lights and down came temp. big problem now is wont cool at idle/stop in go. Stat has hole and cant wait for shroud and new fan. All other junk is gone
Last edited by Cab4word67 (8/05/2019 10:24 PM)
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Now I'd say your issue is the fan. Its cooling when it has enough airflow from moving the car through the air, but when there's little to no airflow its getting hot. A proper fan should fix that. Let us know how it goes.
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Hi there eveyone. I didnt think I would ever be back and maybe I 'm not and just think I am. here is the update one the cooling problems. We are now running a 2 row aluminim Champion radiator w/1" tubes. I have installed a thermo clutch 6 blade steel fan and a new stock (crap) metal mustang shroud that I had to fill in the top and bottom for it to work. Will make new custom one this winter. The car seems to maintain170-185 now with no AC in 80 deg temps. I installed a new MotoRad 180 stat. it does seam to slowly creap up to and mybe past 190 sitting in the driveway. I think we are finily cooling the old girl. We drove all over town with the AC on with no temps past 190. I will watch it and try to enjoy the car for summer now. Thank you all for the input, and for anyone new out there like me Trust these guys with what they say.
PS it drives sweet now too with the Arney drop
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good deal, glad you got it worked out and also that you posted the update........
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Great news butt.............Temps in Oregon(80 on a hot day!) vs Texas and southeast coast is about as far aprt as......Oregon and SC!! Jus say'in!!
Heat index of 104* on the coast today....again!
Glad you got yours sorted out. Nothing worser(is that a word? ) than going for a nice cruise with one eye on the temp gauge and one on the speedometer.... and one on the tach and one on the cell phone clowns!
6s6
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Man, not to hijack, but its freakin' beautiful in DE today! This morning I let the dog out about 6 and it felt cold outside. Right now its like 80, no humidity, light breeze. Great day for my oldest's birthday; he turns 8 today. Crazy how fast the time goes...
Speaking of which time to see what's up with the shifter in my '67. It NEEDS to be driven today! I think the bushing in the shift cup cap apart. Always something...
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Today in DFW would be a good day for testing cooling systems: 104 on the thermometer (in the shade). I won’t be doing anything outside until the sun goes over the yardarm.
Last edited by Hornman (8/11/2019 12:16 PM)
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Hornman wrote:
Today in DFW would be a good day for testing cooling systems: 104 on the thermometer (in the shade). I won’t be doing anything outside until the sun goes over the yardarm.
Your yard has ARMS!!!!!
WOW!
6sal6
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Hornman wrote:
Today in DFW would be a good day for testing cooling systems: 104 on the thermometer (in the shade). I won’t be doing anything outside until the sun goes over the yardarm.
Yes I'll say Did brave the heat and took my girl for a hot test ride ...
after adjusting carb -
18 # rad cap -
set initial timing at 18 * .. was getting Mac Add 25* @ 1500 rpm / 30* @ 2500 rpm / 38* @ 3500 rpm
Took it out about 11: am without hooking Vacuum Add ....
RAD temp 185 * on hwy @ 1500 rpm - 70 mph
temp on Hwy @ 2500 rpm - 70 mph rose to 200*
?? should I curve Dist to total Mac..Add of 20 * to come in at 2500 rpm ???
then hook up Vacuum ( and how much ? )
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I'm a little slow soooooooooo..........Mac...Add???
6sally6
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Sorry
Mechanical Advance ( my attempt of shorthand )
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No prob......just wanted to be sure.
The answer to your question is..........don't know fer sure! Try it and tell US what (if any) difference.
I just can't imaging being able to feel a difference with the total coming in just 1000RPM sooner. Butt I have been worng before. You could be 'right-on-the-edge' of tremendous power increase....and will never know it until..........you try it.
One other thing to check.....make sure all the rubbing surfaces in the distrib are smooth and slide with ease. You don't need anything 'hanging-up' sporaticaly and causing a guessing issue.
Thats why the timing tape......piston stop.......and good timing light are important.
6sal6
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Cool! 😎
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It may be just me, but I would loose the 18# cap as it puts undue stress on cooling system components. The cap has nothing to do with coolant temp and only raises the boiling point of the coolant.
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