Looks like the WYAIT Monster has got hold of you.  One good mod deserves another...

Alot of good info on this can be found at http://www.mustangsteve.com/rideheight.html  Find one you like and duplicate what that person has listed for their car.  The info is many years old, though and lots of new stuff has come out since then.  One being progressive rate springs.

The easiest way to get a reasonable ride height involves two things.  The Shelby UCA relocation (for about 3/4" drop) and a set of new shorter springs.  The Progressive Motorsport progressive rate springs seem to be the ones of choice.  I have them on my car now and I am very happy with the ride quality and performance.  Of course, if you don't mind labor vs spending money, you can always experiment with trimming the stock springs in front.  A coil spring gets stiffer (increased spring rate) when you cut it, but typically still alot softer than the 600# springs alot of guys are using.

Another cause of high front end height, to a much lesser degree, is if the LCA bushing bolts were tightened with the wheels dangling, like when the car's frame is supported by jackstands.  UCA pivot bolts should only be tightened with the weight of the car supported by the wheels.

You don't have to use all that stuff, but longer UCA bolts might be in order.  The MOOG kits come with long bolts, so don't pay alot of money just to get bolts.  The longer bolts allow you to use more shims to get the adjustment needed.

The vario-centric kit will require welding and is not necessary as long as you can get the adjustment at the UCA pivot with shims.  I have the stock LCA pivot bolt connections on my car.

TIP of the day:  When you get home from the alignment shop, get your 3/4" box end wrench out and retighten all four UCA pivot shaft mounting bolts.  The alignment guys seldom tighten them sufficiently.
Then, put a wrench on the strut rod nut at the front and check to see if they are tight.  I have seen alignment techs try to adjust the caster by repositioning the nut.  It will show up as a change on his machine, but all he is doing is loosening the nut, which causes the whole suspsnsion to move around with constant caster change going on when you are driving.  These checks take 5 minutes and can save you a ton of grief if shims were to fall out or if the strut rod came loose.

Our 66 has 15X7 Cragars which only have 3 3/4 back space.  With that setup I have 215-60 tires and it rubbed with the 600lb, 1" drop springs which actually dropped it nearly 2 inches.  I installe a 7/8" upper spring seat from NPD and the car sets perfect, no rub and handles well.  It also has a 1" front sway bar which I believe made the most and best difference.

The 225s are likely going to be too wide with most 15X7 wheels.

BB