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I'm doing a moca up install while waiting for the flywheel to be balanced to my engine. I bought a Drake crossmember and it doesn't fit. I had to route out the mount holes from a 45 degree slot to a 90 degree slot before it went in. Then I remembered that the exhaust pipes go above the convertable structural plate instead of below it. They hit the cross member, chunk that one get another brand. The clutch Z-Bar hits the Borgeson PS hoses so I can order one that misses them but it will hit the JBA short headers. I can bend the Z-Bar so it clears. But I could buy one that does but it won't clear the P/S. I chose the lesser of the two issues.
I originally was going to put an AOD in my car but changed my mind for the T5. When I got the AOD it came with the drive shaft. It is one inch shorter than my original drive shaft so I installed it and it fits. It seems to have more clearance than the original one did which is confusing because it is exactly one inch shorter which is what it is supposed to be? It has a damper on the yoke but the yoke is a little shorter length than the original yoke that goes up inside the tail shaft. Any thoughts?
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see when I did my AOD install , the shorter yoke was the only thing I had to install to get the driveshaft perfect, the drive shaft on my C4 was the right size, needing no modification.
I cannot speak to T5 but I sure know that AOD install
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I had a new shaft made the same size as my original and used a yoke I got from Mustangs Unlimited for the T5 swap. I did not compare the original and new yoke as I took all of it to the driveshaft shop and they just built me a new shaft. All I can say is that it works great.
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I used a Modern Driveline T5 cross member in my ‘65.
Placed old Hurst shifter into stock C4 shifter location.
There’s enough room for 3” exhaust if you need it.
Well built and no issues.
Last edited by Nos681 (8/09/2019 6:48 AM)
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Gaba wrote:
see when I did my AOD install , the shorter yoke was the only thing I had to install to get the driveshaft perfect, the drive shaft on my C4 was the right size, needing no modification.
I cannot speak to T5 but I sure know that AOD install
I found only one difference between my stock yoke and the T5 yoke. The inner splines on the early yoke begin a little ways down the tube where the T5's begin right at the opening. I have successful used both on my T5. And the stock drive shaft works with no mods. Others have had to change the length some.
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Typically, a T5 swap requires a 3/4” shorter driveshaft than a c4.. I have done alot of swaps and some cars could use original shaft and some could not.
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I have to correct myself on driveshaft issue. I couldn’t use my ‘92 slip yoke...my original driveshaft has 1” u-joints...couldn’t make 2 step difference in u-joint size. 1” to 1330 ....as I recall.
A 3/4”-1” inch shorter driveshaft would fit better as MS mentioned. No issues with crossmember I purchased as it allowed me to make minor adjustments. I have the early ‘65 motor mounts not ‘66 and later.
For now I installed new u-joints and using C4 slip yoke.
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The yoke I have is shorter than the original one but the splines start right at the beginning of it. They both have the same length of splines but the original has an extended length that has no splines. ????
What is the size of the bolts supposed to be that bolt the trans to the bell housing? The bolts I have are SAE threads. They fit rather loose in the hole but tighten up. They are the ones that were on the original transmission. I'm not familiar enough with metric to know if metric would fit better or not.
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m12x1.75
Best to order a set from late model restoration and call it a day...
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Thanks.
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come caricare foto
This is my t5z with scott drake crossmember z bar link and clutch link with zero issue
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Long tubes?! No speed bumps in Italy? It is paradise...
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Doug,
That is how my "Tune the Windows" ended up. All I wanted to do was to get them to roll up reliably. Next thing you know I'm replacing a quarter panel and the bottom ends of wheel houses. Then me thinks... when it was all said and done it had a sparkly new paint job and a new interior. A classic snowball effect.
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I had to do all that on the left side to put the clutch pedal in. Two more screws let the clock panel come out. May as well fix that while I'am at it. Could be an early start on the bash thrash?
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Haha Doug, looks like it is now!!! Keep up the good work.
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TKOPerformance wrote:
Long tubes?! No speed bumps in Italy? It is paradise...
Well , yes we have in many ways and some are not allowed for me . Basically are in residential zone . The lower one are ok . But i knew only set them that were so low !
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What is the recommended clutch lever dust boot and stick shifter dust boot to use? I got the wrong ones, they don't fit.
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I got my clutch fork cover from LMR
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I'd advise using OEM Fox Mustang parts. The dust cover, seal, and screw are available reproduced from LMR. For the shifter I used a Fox body lower boot also from LMR. I remove the metal ring to make installing it without removing the carpet possible.
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Alessandro wrote:
come caricare foto
This is my t5z with scott drake crossmember z bar link and clutch link with zero issue
Really a good look'in photo!
6s6
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The clutch pedal, clutch lever, push rod and block plate are from the 302/3 speed installation. Everything else is new replacements for the T-5 conversion. The Z-Bar is for a 70 Mustang with Borgeson Power steering. I could have got one for JBA headers but not one for both mods. It looks like the dust cover for a 93 Mustang won't fit with the components installed. Guess I'll be doing some fabricating.
P.S. pics are really easy to put up now.
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Hudgin, do you have a different release arm and pivot installed in that late model bellhousing so it works with a PUSH actuation? Seems like you would have to cut the cable stop off the bell in order to do it.
Sorry I have not been following your thread as closely as I should have.
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I bought a fulcrum kit to mount my original release arm onto the late model bellhousing so I could use my original Z-Bar. It didn't fit because the Borgeson power steering was in the way so I had to buy a Z-bar that would go around it. The cable stop does touch the pushrod but just barely. It moves away from it when pushing the clutch pedal. I figured that if I used the 93 Mustang release arm the clutch would be harder to push because of the shorter leverage. The black mark in the pic is where I would need to grind out the cable stop.
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Don’t forget torque induced movement of the engine/z-bar assembly. Worst case, a sawzall can remove the whole thing. Just keep it in the toolbox in case you ever need to TIG it back on. For when MustangSteve develops that 1970 cable clutch kit.
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