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10/04/2019 8:32 PM  #1


Lakewood bell housings and clutch fork

Has anyone had any experience with using a Lakewood scatter shield with a '68 Mustang clutch fork?  It is the one with the spring clip on the back to attach to the Lakewood housing.  A couple of pieces came with the bell housing to locate the clutch fork, but no instructions as to which one goes in which set of holes to mount the fork.  I can't get the fork to stay attached to the bell housing when I try to get the transmission input shaft to go through the release bearing.  It seems as though I am missing something to hold the fork on the brkt. inside the housing.  With the Lakewood housing, does it take a special fork unique for the Lakewood hsg.?  I sent an email to Holly, which Lakewood is a branch of them, but they apparently don't answer emails with any regularity.  I also called them numerous times only to be told I am 5th or 15th on the list and after holding for 10 minutes I finally gave up.  Thanks for any help.


"when I drop something, it always goes to center of the car"
 

10/04/2019 8:58 PM  #2


Re: Lakewood bell housings and clutch fork

I am using a factory '65 Mustang clutch release lever with my ancient Lakewood scattershield.

 

10/05/2019 3:25 AM  #3


Re: Lakewood bell housings and clutch fork

Texas! wrote:

I am using a factory '65 Mustang clutch release lever with my ancient Lakewood scattershield.

Do you remember how the fork attaches to the bell hsg.?  Like a dummy, I sold the original motor, and transmission complete assy., from my '65, so I don't have anything to compare against. I thought I was done with the project when I sold everything.
 


"when I drop something, it always goes to center of the car"
     Thread Starter
 

10/05/2019 8:52 AM  #4


Re: Lakewood bell housings and clutch fork

Have you looked at a shop manual.  I've worn one out and am on my second.  Works for me.


Original owner - 351w,T-5, 4whl disks, power R&P
 

10/05/2019 8:58 AM  #5


Re: Lakewood bell housings and clutch fork

it's the two holes at about 8:00 next to big hole.  What fork bracket do you have?  

 

10/05/2019 9:02 AM  #6


Re: Lakewood bell housings and clutch fork

And this is the pivot bracket you should use with that fork.  The spring clip on the back of the fork slips into the slot.  The early pivots don't have the slot.

I don't have mine apart but you also need to make sure you have the bracket installed the in the correct orientation.  If you flip it 180 degrees it might not line up properly.

 

10/05/2019 12:19 PM  #7


Re: Lakewood bell housings and clutch fork

GPatrick wrote:

it's the two holes at about 8:00 next to big hole.  What fork bracket do you have? Thanks for the info.  My bell housing has four holes in that area and I have tried all the combinations and the only way it puts the release bearing in the center of the big hole is to use the two holes closest to the big hole.  I did get a email from someone at Holly and he said the bracket will only go one way.  Best I can see there is eight ways the bracket for the fork will go.  I am using the '68-'69 fork with the spring clip on the back, but when I try to get the bearing and fork on the input shaft, the fork won't stay on the pivot point.  I noticed there is a small hole on each side of the clutch.  Is a spring or something to be used there?  I am trying to mock up the installation of an external slave cylinder by mounting the bell housing on the transmission while it is on my transmission jack, but can't get fork to stay on the pivot point while I put the bell housing on the trans.

 


"when I drop something, it always goes to center of the car"
     Thread Starter
 

10/05/2019 3:58 PM  #8


Re: Lakewood bell housings and clutch fork

If you put a spring on the little hole at the end of the fork and pull the outside of the fork forward, it will help to keep it in rear-most position against the bell housing opening while stabbing the trans.  Also, make sure you haven't pushed the TOB too far on to the fork.  The spring clips on the TOB don't go all the way into the indent on the fork.  If you don't have the TOB mounted right, when you stab the trans it will pull the fork off of the fulcrum.  A third hand to hold the fork might help - have a young person with small-ish hands to help you for a few minutes?
 

 

Board footera


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