3/8 and 10 mm banjos interchange so you can widen your search.  You just need to use the correct bolt for the banjo.  The copper washers also interchange.  I gave up on maintaining the one flex hose position on mine and hung two flex hoses from the frame to the calipers.  I have exhaust and rear suspension (TCP) interference that limited where I could put an original style hose.  Summit sells a variety of aftermarket stainless flex hoses in any length with your choice of ends and they are sometimes cheaper than factory parts.  Do some searches on techniques people have used to install these hoses to the axle tube or spring plates.

I did get the factory hoses that came with the 2016 rear calipers.
The vehicle side is the odd ball fitting as mentioned.
I’m guessing each line goes to ABS unit on 2016’s too.
Threaded fitting on hose is 90 degrees from hose length.

Last edited by Nos681 (10/22/2019 1:14 PM)

I mounted -3AN to 3/16” inverted flare female adapters to some brackets I got from Jeg’s.  Actually welded the brackets to the adapters so I never have to use a second wrench when tightening the hoses.   Then measured for hose length and ordered some from Summit.

Like Gary said, 3/8” banjo size on the caliper end and -3AN on the axle end.  But use correct banjo threads for the calipers. I used a 69 Mustang center hose.  On my truck, I ran the caliper hoses directly to each frame rail, eliminating the center hose like Gary did. It makes a cleaner installation, but my Mustang was already plumbed with the 69 center hose.

Thanks everyone!
Now I can see the big picture when I step back.

I still have everything apart...darn rain.
I will look at both plumbing options.

On the caliper ears you mentioned...for strength and noise dampening possibly?
The calipers I purchased were the dark cast color so it’s not as noticeable.
I bought them because they were a deal with hoses, removed at hardline, and no damage.

The factory hoses are too long to use unless you run them up to the frame rails on each side. That is probably best to do anyway. Then just run new hard lines to each frame rail.

Ears may be used in the machining process, just a guess without a closer inspection.
I’d just cut the suckers off.
Don’t forget to paint the calipers red or yellow

I really appreciate all of the help.
Pictures make it easier to see routing and length of hose and options for plumbing.
If it weren’t for WYAIT syndrome...axle, axle housing inside and out, leaf springs, mounting brackets, etc.
I’d probably have this thing back to together today before snow hits the ground again.😂

Sometimes (!!) it is better to get correct length hoses rather than install brake components in compromised condition/position.

Sounds good.  One thing I always consider with rear brake lines is WILL A FAILED REAR UJOINT CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE BRAKE LINES?

Here is option #476..,

Crown will make you whatever type of brake hose you can imagine.  And it isn’t really much more expensive than off the shelf hoses.


http://www.crownperformance.com/

I’d attach a photo, but I can’t figure out how to do it from a mobile device

Last edited by Bentworker (11/02/2019 10:51 AM)

Yes, the 2015 and later GT rear brakes can be mounted either in front or in rear of the axle using the MustangSteve brackets.

Nos681 wrote:

Rudi. What pictures would ya need to evaluate the caliper ears?
Haven’t mounted mine yet...maybe today.

 
I would look for any witness marks on the ears that indicated they had been clamped in a holding fixture or jig.
My AOD transmission has two ears on each side that are used to locate  housing during it’s manufacture.
A good inspection could tell you if the ears are needed in its final form and function.

Last edited by Rudi (11/06/2019 3:52 PM)