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Today i tear down transission to resurface the clutch side of flywheel ( haven't done when changed clutch ) .
Mainly i am doing this to find where is the leaking on back of oil panel or rear main .
This leak is puzzling .... the flywheel bolts were wet of oil , but outside was clean .
Clean also the clutch and contact surface . Dry and clean the pressure plate .
very dirty the separator plate on both side of center hole .
Inside the bellhousing there is low trace of dirty mud , little oil spray by wind .
All the dirty i found was around separator / starter motor and long tubes , But this are drops pushed by wind all around
And are all drops of oil , not mud or whatsoever .
At this point i will check well the rear main seal and may change if needed .
OR DO YOU THINK IS NEEDED A NEW ONE ANYWAY ?
There is also the pilot bearing question .
When i set up the transmission i used the new pilote bearing comes with clutch . Runs good / no issue
BETTER USE THIS OR THE OLD COPPER ONE ?
Then the last issue : the trans is down from left side , like the z bar pivot is misaligned .
The pics was taken before remove the bell bolts and is not that only " seems " turned counterclock . it's really some degrees turned on left . I don't have adjstable motor mounts .
How i can solve this ? Thanks also if you want to reply to all !
temporarly i can't add pics !
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Flywheel bolts need sealer on them. The back side is in the crankcase and exposed to oil. If they aren't sealed oil will slowly work its way down the threads and leak.
A 2 piece rear main seal is almost always going to leak a tiny bit. They are had to get right with the engine out of the car and even harder with it in the car. You have to decide if its worth risking making it worse to try and fix it.
Oil pan leaks are also common though, so I would probably start there. The bolts come loose and they leak.
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Pilot bearing/bushing.........How long has it been used? IF pretty new leave it. IF its been there for years.....I would change it.
Be sure and clean ALL oil and grease from the flywheel face as well as the pressure plate and clutch.
Z-bar.......was it giving you problems or just at an odd angle? If not giving a problem.....leave it alone. "Ain't broke...don't fix it"!
6sal6
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unlucky there is something with posting pics that don't work for me . The odd angle with z bar is created by engine and trans little turn on left side couple of degrees . The issue is the shifter lever that is little misaligned . So first and second gear shift are too much on left side and hit my legs
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Finally i can add pics , as you can see is tilted on left side . Can i add some shims between engine and motor mount to solve this ?
Last edited by Alessandro (11/14/2019 3:03 AM)
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It may be that you actually have a GM style t-5. The GM version sits at an angle - this is from one web site:
All 1993 and up GM cars with the T-5 used the Ford bellhousing bolt pattern, and not the earlier GM pattern. The 1993 and up GM applications were limited to V-6 Camaros/Firebirds, as the option was not offered in the V-8s. You can identify these transmissions by the 26-spline GM input shaft with a Ford bolt pattern. You should also know that F-Body bellhousings mount the transmission at a 17-degree angle towards the driver, which could cause problems when trying to line up and mount the shifter through the floorboards of other models.
If this is the case you cannot lift one side of the engine to get it to fit. I suspect that heating and bending the shifter may be the only option to keep the shifter out of your lap. You can do more searches on the actual transmission tag to determine if it is indeed a GM unit. The input shaft could be an issue or someone may have installed a ford 10-spline input. I would not recommend shimming motor mounts because everything else will be offset.
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Some further investigation shows the the problem can also be the adapter plate that you are using. Some people suggest indexing the holes on the adapter plate to rotate the transmission. This may or may not work but is worth checking. If I recall you have the original stock early bellhousing and an adapter. You might want to do some searches on GM T-5 angle. I think it was on the F-body cars. One post said bend the shifter and move on. Is the transmission mount pad also at an angle or is it flat?
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GPatrick wrote:
It may be that you actually have a GM style t-5. The GM version sits at an angle - this is from one web site:
All 1993 and up GM cars with the T-5 used the Ford bellhousing bolt pattern, and not the earlier GM pattern. The 1993 and up GM applications were limited to V-6 Camaros/Firebirds, as the option was not offered in the V-8s. You can identify these transmissions by the 26-spline GM input shaft with a Ford bolt pattern. You should also know that F-Body bellhousings mount the transmission at a 17-degree angle towards the driver, which could cause problems when trying to line up and mount the shifter through the floorboards of other models.
If this is the case you cannot lift one side of the engine to get it to fit. I suspect that heating and bending the shifter may be the only option to keep the shifter out of your lap. You can do more searches on the actual transmission tag to determine if it is indeed a GM unit. The input shaft could be an issue or someone may have installed a ford 10-spline input. I would not recommend shimming motor mounts because everything else will be offset.
Thanks for clear explanation but i have a 1352-249 id tag so means all mustang 5.0 v8 .
I need to verify the adapter plate if can be worked
This GM style is new for me but i think also that 17 degrees are a lot and i do believe is not my case .
Seems very less from pics .
About trans mount seems at same angle with shifter .
Don't want to insist , but seems more that left side is settled a little bit than right side than Gm style problem -
Thanks ! very interesting !
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Then the adapter may indeed be at fault. Happy hunting.
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GPatrick wrote:
Then the adapter may indeed be at fault. Happy hunting.
Take a look at the adapter and there is no space to be worked but but i think to send an email to producer to have some info about that .
Thanks again !
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today i removed the rear main seal and the seats of seal was full of oil . There were no sign of leaks on the out face .
But looking at the oil pan i realize that something went wrong on the back side . Evident leaks , oil between gasket and dirty all around let me think that mostly comes from oil pan and pan seal . I have heard that pan can flex or too thighten is not the job -
maybe is time for a new oil pan
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If your transmission is not level then neither is your engine. I would be looking at the engine mounts to see if someone used two different types or installed them wrong.
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Also, I fought a rear oil pan leak for quite a while. The only way I was able to fix it was to remove the pan, throw the gasket away, clean both the engine and pan really well and use RTV on the pan (no gasket). It has not leaked since.
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John Ha wrote:
If your transmission is not level then neither is your engine. I would be looking at the engine mounts to see if someone used two different types or installed them wrong.
hi , i will take a look , but have installed new and as i remember. they were same left / right -
used anchor brand .
maybe they can move a little and i don' t know .
thanks
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GPatrick wrote:
Then the adapter may indeed be at fault. Happy hunting.
I will sen an email to producer and wait for answer .
Can you tell me if there is one way to know when engine is on level ?
If for any reason i have left engine mount sits more than right side , why i cannot use some shims to make it leveled ?
Maybe just one flat piece under the motor between the mounts . Not talking on half inch , probably 1/4 of inch .
Is this a bad idea ?
thanks
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Park on level ground...........place a carpenter's level(water level) on top of carb and see if it is level. IF it is indeed out by just a 1/4" I can't see why the shim trick wouldn't work. (maybe even 3/8")
6sally6
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Its unlikely that you have a GM T5. They sit at a 17 degree angle, and won't bolt to a Ford bellhousing. The angle was to accomodate the torque arm mount for the F car rear suspension.
As far as checking the engine for level. First you need to make sure that the vehicle is level front to back and side to side. Once that's done you can check the engine by leveling off the carb mounting pad on the intake, or, if that's not level (sometimes they are angled toward the front slightly) you have to level off the engine block on the intake mounting surface.
I'm going to say that if its not level front to rear that isn't really surprising. Side to side would be more concerning to me.
If its only a couple degrees, and everything else works, I would just bend the shifter shaft to clear your knee.
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going on with this post i recived the pro 5.0 shifter and already installed in t5 . The note says to cut a little of transmission hole . The fat round part of shifter must stay under or upper the hole .? Now is stopped by a little , and removing it ( simple trimming ) i allowed to push it up through the hole .
IF anybody knows that please tell me something .
Thanks !
BTW i have checked the rear main shaft for leaks but once i have take out transmission and separator plate i realized that it wasn't leaking . The guilty is the oil pan and wrong placing of gasket .
oil pan was crooked and a new one is coming .
the gasket was my bad , putting the final lip out of round oil pan gasket . The lip must stay upper and then the round one - A simply stupid / little thing waste me a lot of time .
But nothing is written until new oil pan is arrived . I may have done something wrong and still have leaks .... finger crossed !
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I had to cut some of the metal to allow the shifter to come up through the floor so I could install the mount underneath.
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Both my T5 transmission installs (68 mustang and 63 fairlane both using the T5 bell housing) have a slight tilt the same way. I also thought this was an issue when I originally installed them but a T5 specialist assured me that this was normal. Been running them for 8+ years now and no issues.
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