Sorry you may want to know this motor has never been apart from what I can tell it is a 66 289, 2 barl, with auto trans factory blue  I am 2nd owner, Timming chain is tight on one side and about 1/2" play on other in the midle 

Last edited by Cab4word67 (12/01/2019 6:54 PM)

Don’t know about the plastic pieces, but I agree with Barry on the clip for the oil pump drive shaft.

That's definitely an oil pump driveshaft clip.  I would typically replace the oil pump nay time I had the pan off an engine.  Its just good/cheap insurance.  I would advise buying something name brand like a Melling.  SBFs have a good oil system.  No need to get a high volume or high pressure pump. 

I'm not sure about the plastic bits.  The color's wrong for a timing gear.  Those gears are Nylon and are a yellowish white color.  Oil exposure turns them more yellow over time.  Plus, you said the engine runs good, and when those gears break down the engine stops running right.  Now, since you already have the pan off I would say go ahead and pull the timing cover and swap to a metal timing set. 

daily driver wrote:

That washer looks like it came off the distributor shaft. I've only rebuilt two motors in my whole life. One was a 289, it seems like there were plastic gauges under the bearings on the crankshaft for torque specs.

This is more likely than my nylon gear guess. But at that mileage, you need a timing set anyway.

Get an ARP driveshaft while you're at it.  Stock one is quite puny.  Like $20 insurance policy, well worth it. 

Sorry I am a bit confused. there are 2 shafts? one out of the oil pump and one that connects to that one and is connected to the distributor?
is this the ARP one     ARP: 154-7904

Last edited by Cab4word67 (12/02/2019 9:28 PM)

Cab4word67 wrote:

Sorry I am a bit confused. there are 2 shafts? one out of the oil pump and one that connects to that one and is connected to the distributor?
is this the ARP one     ARP: 154-7904

 
One shaft. It is a hex shaft one end goes onto the oil pump, the other end up into the bottom of the dist shaft.

got the new pump and shaft on its way too now. Need to find a better manual than the Hastings. Any recommendations
 

50vert wrote:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/shop-manual-1966-mustang-comet-falcon-fairlane-reprint/138039?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dshop%252Bmanual%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1966&year=1966
3/8"-1/2" clearance to the screen ... parallel to the pan.

 
Ditto on that.
And the clip on the shaft needs about 0.030” to 0.050” clearance between it and the block so it does not rub the block as it rotates. To check, install it in the oil pump and then bolt the pump to the block. Using two fingers, try to push the shaft upward into the distributor. You should be able to move it up just a little until the clip hits the block. But, you should not be able to move it upward enough where it disengages from the oil pump. I prefer to do this test with distributor removed.
Obviously, the shaft must go in from the bottom.

Looking at the condition of the nylon teeth from the camshaft gear in your oil pan I would be willing to bet that your engine already has a replacement timing chain set on it. It wouldn't run with the stripped cam gear still installed.

Any recommendations on a good solvent to use in my new parts washer to clean up the old girl?

If you have a Tractor Supply within driving distance, they have 5 gallon cans of parts washer solvent. It is a high boiling point mineral spirits. Doesn’t evaporate as fast as paint store mineral spirits.