Or....you can buy a brand new starter relay (Solenoid) that came bolted to the fender of an 88 or 89 Crown Vic, Towncar, or Merc Marqee.  It will not have the 12v output lug for the brown wire (pink wire bypass at starting) but if you need it you could very easily install a relay to provide that function.

BB

I would suggest taking your battery and have it tested.  My local Advanced Auto (Previously Car Quest) has a tester that will charge and discharge to check its condition.  Depending on condition, they might be able restore most of its capacity. It’s not a quick test, just in case you’re expecting fast.

Extreme heat or cold is tough on a battery.  Allowing it to sit discharged reduces battery life as well.  Sometimes you can charge at a higher current to get the charging started, but have to reduce to lower current so you don’t create excessive (explosive) gases. Definitely perform charging in a well ventilated area away from explosive liquids and gases.

Last edited by Nos681 (12/03/2019 8:34 PM)

Nos681 wrote:

Have you checked your starter to see if something may causing high current draw?
You just replaced battery recently?
What size wire from battery to solenoid?
And from solenoid to starter?
Checked for high resistance on cables?
Any questionable crimps or corrosion on cables?
Are you running headers?

This may help us troubleshoot possible root problems causing solenoid failures.

Dan

Dan,
Consider adding to your checklist “make sure the solenoid itself is properly grounded through the mounting ears”. 

I usually start and drive the car once or twice a week. Sometimes it might go two weeks, without starting, but I really try to avoid that.
The solenoid seems to stick at random times. When it happens, it will go something like this... I turn the key and then everything goes dead, total power loss. I then pop the hood and either check the tightness of the positive cable to the battery or tap the solenoid. Immediately the power is comes back on and I can start the car. After this little episode happens, I then need to reset all the saved radio stations, because of the total power loss.
 

Last edited by Stevo (12/05/2019 5:26 AM)

I was thinking something similar 50vert.

Sounds like an issue from solenoid to the fuse box.
The main power from solenoid- firewall connector- fuse box.

Try this first:
Connect meter to Cigar circuit to ground...should be full battery voltage.
Move wiring around in engine compartment and see if it changes.

I believe the underhood wiring and/or firewall connection has corrosion or poor connection going to fuse box.

Disconnect battery prior to work on firewall connection.
Just be careful with that connector, it may not come apart easily...worst case break on you.

My 65 with gauges, had a melted feed wire to the fuse box both underhood as well as under dash when I bought it.
I had similar problems.
I also ended up changing out my ignition switch too, due to failure as well.

Thanks guys...
The wiring should all be good. I really went over all this and had it all tested. But... maybe there is an issue?
I would have no idea about the headlights going off. When it happens, I go to crank the engine over and I hear this kind of buzz noise (has to be starter attempting to engage) and then everything is dead.
This does not happen all the time, just very randomly.

Hello everyone. My 65/ 289 auto is down getting ready for the Bash and my starter looks to be original, brushes are about 1/4 now and full of copper dust. What one would you recommend from Rock Auto or should I go with the Ebay one. If i want the Ebay one you listed is it just a 30amp relay needed and a extra wire to the starter? 

The ebay link has a diagram for using your existing solenoid. If you wanna use a relay to replace the solenoid, and you mount it in the location the solenoid was, you won't need to lengthen the switch wire.
But, you will need a 12v to the relay, wire out to the solenoid on the starter, and a one piece heavy cable to the starter. and a ground. I'd try to hide it a bit, maybe under the battery tray.
You'll also need to lengthen the power supply to the cabin that was on the old solenoid.
It's probably worth mounting a fuse block under the tray.
Use a relay with a diode across the coil to kill the voltage spike generated by the PMGR.

 

Last edited by 50vert (12/07/2019 11:08 PM)

Ok, thanks for all the information on this.
I will definitely check all my earths and connections first up and if I still have issues, I will look at these other two options suggested.