The only clearance issue I had with Tri-y's was when I installed an AOD, they fit fine with a C-4. I also have a mini starter, IIRC the stock starter was tight.
Don't know what problems there are with a manual tranny.
 JBA's seem to be a good choice.

Only issue with JBA shorties is if you have or plan to install a Borgeson power steering system.  The LH header hits the steering box big time.  I had to make a pretty good sized dent in one of the tubes to clear the box.  Had I known this going in I probably would have looked at FPA headers instead, which I hear clear the box without issue. 

Otherwise the JBAs are great.  You will need socket style collector pieces for your exhaust because they use ball and socket joints

Thanks for the feed back.
The repo k code manifolds aren’t sealing.
That’s most of why I am leaning towards tri y’s.
I was hoping for feed back on Steve’s cable clearance.
I’ll let you know how it goes.

6sally6 wrote:

Are you using any kind of gasket on the mani's?
6sally6

Good question.  I always ran mine without gaskets.  That was on advice from my neighbor who's a lifelong mechanic and about the best I know.  He said they need to conform to the flanges and gaskets actually prevent that and create potential voids that can leak over time.

I will say though, headers are going to require periodic retorquing to keep them from ticking.  I do run  gaskets with headers, but only solid copper.  I've yet to have one fail and yet to have that wouldn't reseal if a leak developed. 

Wrkhorse wrote:

Thanks for the feed back.
The repo k code manifolds aren’t sealing.
That’s most of why I am leaning towards tri y’s.
I was hoping for feed back on Steve’s cable clearance.
I’ll let you know how it goes.

One solution is to take the manifolds to a machine shop and have them mill the flanges flat.  They only need a skim to make that happen.

50vert wrote:

^this^   Iron heads to Iron manifolds, transfers heat better without a composite gasket between.
If a gasket is needed, copper is the best choice.

I used copper years ago on "Not A Small Block" and they worked better than great!

 

I've been running NPD re-pop Hi-Po manifolds for over 30K miles.  Had them on E7 heads for 15K and then went to the AFR 165's.  These presented the problem MS referred to above and I had to do some custom fitting to both the heads and the manifolds to get them to mate flush.  Butt (TS&T), I have been using head-to-manifold gaskets since day one and never had a problem.  They are made for a 2" pipe with "donut" gaskets at the outlet and again no problem.  I used 2" to start the headpipes and then up to 2.25" after a few inches.
Everything gets tight and has to be modified when swapping to the AOD/AODE/4R70W.

NOTE:  I discovered many years ago that head to manifold gaskets will blow out very soonly if the manifold bolts are not properly torqued.  Discovered this when I put a Bowtie 283 in my old 54 F.  Went through three sets of gaskets before the "light" came on.  Torqued the next set to what Chevy recommended and never touchted it again.  Since then I ALWAYS  pay attention to torque specs.


 

Last edited by Bullet Bob (12/22/2019 10:22 AM)