First, change all the fluids. Listen to GPatrick about priming the engine oiling system. Anything soft (hoses, plug wires, etc.) are sure to be shot, or will fail shortly after you get the car running. After that much time I'd just toss the fuel tank and put in a new one. The carb may or may not be salvageable. If the last fuel it had in it didn't contain ethanol you can probably clean it thoroughly and rebuild it to at least get the car running. If it sat with ethanol fuel in it you're probably looking at using it as a paperweight from here on out. All had lines are at best suspect (brakes and fuel). Tires and shocks are junk. Grease everything that's greaseable. I'd remove the boots and really force all, the old grease out as its bound to have separated and gone hard after that much time. It won't lubricate and after some use the parts will quickly wear out. Suspension bushings are likely roached from dry rot too. Wheel cylinders, calipers, and the brake master cylinder are probably shot as well as are all the soft lines. If the linings or pads are good you can probably just scuff them and see if the rotors and/or drums can be cleaned up on a brake lathe (turned). They usually have a lot of rust on them after that much time. Might just need new ones. Clean and repack all bearings too.
The water in the radiator may simply have evaporated. This is common with cars that have sat for this long. When you drain the oil you'll know if the coolant ended up in the oil, because water will come out of the pan first, followed by milkshake (oil's lighter than water so the water settles to the bottom). Freeze plugs are a misnomer. Those plugs are core plugs. They are there to fill the holes the factory used to shake the casting sand out of the block after it was cast. If they are intact the block can still be cracked. I've had this unfortunate experience. I'd get it running and see if you have further issues.
Coil can be tested with a multimeter. Here's a decent write up with pics:
https://www.aa1car.com/library/ignition_coils.htm
You can test the solenoid by applying 12V to the ign. terminal, grounding the mounting bracket, and seeing if you have continuity between the big lugs. If yes, then its good, so long as there isn't continuity there without 12V applied to the ign terminal.
On the regulator, let's get it running first. If it doesn't charge you can look at the alternator and regulator, or investigate the merits of simply going to a modern, larger internally regulated alternator.
If you intend to use the car GPatrick and I are on the same page. Pressing a car back into service that has sat for this long is best done by going what some may call a bit overboard. Sitting is a car's worst enemy. Stuff that seems fine starts to quickly fail once it starts being used regularly again. IMO I'd rather the car be reliable than get frustrated with a car that constantly breaks down. If not an emergency kit is best carried, along with clean underwear. First you say it, then you do it when the brakes fail...
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