I can relate!!!    Hang in there it gets worse!!!!
I understand about the "dark side" only mine's not whispering......its yelling!!
(I wonder IF this will transfer over to Italian?!)
6sally6

TKOPerformance wrote:

So it jumps out of 5th gear?  If it did not do it before the new shifter I'd think the stops aren't adjusted correctly.  Back the forward stop off 1/2 to 1 full turn and see if it goes away. 

Thanks tko , i have set them before mount it , i will try to forward a little and see what happen

I am having the exact same issue. I rebuilt mine before I initially installed it. But it was pretty worn out so a lot a parts were replaced. It slipped out of gear right away on the first drive. I took to the people that I bought the overhaul kit and parts from. They replaced some of the brass parts that had teeth on them calling them gears that came in the OH kit.???   I thought they were syncros???? I put it back in and their repair did not fix it so it is back at their shop. I have not heard from them yet. I also put the Pro 5.0 and the Hurst replica shift lever on mine. Adjusting the stop so it is not touching the stick leaver did not fix it. Mine comes out of gear real slow and is unnoticed unless you are looking at it..... GRRRR!!!!!

A bad synchronizer ring will not cause a trans to jump out of gear.  The engagement teeth on the speed gear are worn or damaged.  I've pulled dozens of synchro rings out of trannies that looked brand new, with a speed gear with damaged teeth behind it.  The speed gear was the cause of the jumping out of gear or grinding noise on engagement. 

Its also possible the slider is damaged.

When I rebuild a manual trans I go through everything.  I will not reuse anything that isn't perfect.  Believe it or not, next to 2nd gear 5th is the one that most commonly needs to be replaced.  I think when its time to shift into 5th people have stopped paying as close attention and jam it in. 

When adjusting the Pro 5.0 you need to check all three gates (1/2, 3/4, 5/R) to make sure that each one fully engages.  You set the stop by the deepest one.  Remember that even though it all comes out as a single shift rail, inside the trans there is a different rail for 5th/reverse.  The adjustment procedure should be: loosen the stop bolt so it doesn't touch the shift stub, place the trans in gear, adjust the stop bolt until it just touches the shift stub, tighten the lock bolt.  If during tightening the bolt moves forward and moves the shift stub you will have problems with engagement. 

5th gear has a brass synchronizer ring in most T5s.  Some people refer to them as "baulk rings".  That's more of a European or Japanese term, but still accurate.  That ring on 5th is the only brass part in a WC T5. 

I can't see a reason to ever replace a shift rail or fork, unless its bent/broken, but I've never seen a 5th gear fork damaged.  Though, sometimes the little plastic pads can fall apart, which could also cause the trans not to fully engage 5th gear.