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Hello everyone!
67 390gt fastback
When starting sometimes absolutely nothing happens, or there will be a slight hesitation then start , turn the key a few more times and eventually it will fire off. It has new starter, solenoid, ignition switch, and key tumbler. It also has a ignitor 2 module if that matters. Seems to happen more in the summer when very hot. What else should i be looking for?
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My first thought is the coil is breaking down, try a new one, they’re reasonably cheap and if it’s not the problem a spare coil in the trunk is always a good thing.
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Can you clarify. The motor is turning over and hesitates to fire off like it’s getting no spark? Or it hesitates to turn over like a dead battery?
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When the key is turned to start the car, sometimes NOTHING happens. Turn the key back and try again, sometimes a slight hesitation then it starts, sometimes immediate start like it should normally. I checked all connections to starter, Solenoid etc. Cleaned and reconnected. Taking a trip to Connecticut to Mustang Unlimited and exhaust place, Don't want to get stuck!
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Thanks for the clarification. Sounds more like the switch or solenoid. New parts aren’t always good!!
Something else to think about is the positive cables battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter. The big block cars are notorious for heat soak. Everything under the hood get away hot which increases the electrical resistance of the starter cables. The car sounds like it has a dead battery when you’re trying to crank it over. I have a 2/0 cable from the battery to the solenoid and the solenoid to the starter.
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Having somebody hit the key while you listen under the hood for the starter solenoid to kick in when it’s acting this way might be a decent troubleshooting technique, if you have the help.
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Do you have a manual or automatic tranny? I recently had similar symptoms as you. I had a neutral safety switch which would sporadically malfunction and not allow the car to start.
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Ive had the car since 1974, never a problem, its a four speed car, and it happens when the car is stone cold but eventually It will start. Will try key tap method.
Last edited by rtmjr13@optonline.net (1/25/2020 12:29 PM)
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I'd also add look over your grounding. Bad or missing grounds cause all manner of electrical issues. The body should be grounded to the engine and the engine to the battery. I've seen a lot of cars with missing engine to body ground straps, or bad cables. Corrosion can work its way into the braided copper in the cables and exponentially raise resistance providing intermittent grounding. If the cables are old I'd replace them as a matter of course. Make sure all mounting points are free of paint and corrosion. If you're concerned about corrosion reforming there is a battery post sealer made by Permatex that works well for creating a barrier to oxidation. It comes in a small spray can.
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Ground-ground-ground!
6sally6
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Do the dash lights go out when you get nothing?
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Never tried it with lights on, will try. What would that tell me?
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rtmjr13@optonline.net wrote:
Never tried it with lights on, will try. What would that tell me?
Low battery for one.
6sal6
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I meant charge and oil light.
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What happens when you try with just the starter solenoid? That would tell you which way to go to trouble shoot.
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Check to make sure the tabs on start solenoid are well grounded.
Try connecting meter or test light to “s” terminal and verify voltage. Should get full battery voltage each time key turned to start position and solenoid energizes.
Might have to cleanup firewall connector and look closely at terminals at wire ends. Terminals might have a non visible mechanical connection problem to wire.
Might have to clean up connectors at solenoid as well.
Start😂 with simple things first.
To save on battery draining. You could disconnect cable to starter and perform all of these checks. Once confident, solenoid picks up consistently...reattach starter cable.
Bolted suggestion about larger wire helps too.
I have also used a short length of heater hose to insulate from headers.
Now there are other forms of reflective heat barriers that work well.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by Nos681 (1/27/2020 1:24 PM)
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Nos681 has a good point. The firewall connector can get loose and cause no-start condition. You typically need a person holding it under the dash while you push the engine side connector together. I have had it come loose when fiddling with something else, then scratch my head wondering why the car won’t start when it ran fine a little while ago.
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I once had an intermitant run issue that escaped me for months. The engine would just quit under many different situations , once in the passing lane at 70mph. Big time scary! The car would start right up after at times, other times would not.
I was so pissed that at one time when it restarted and was running I got out and slammed the door as hard as I could out of frustration. Bingo the engine quit.
I started to jiggle some wires under the hood and when I got to the ignition feed to the spark control box. it quit.
The culprit , a bad bullet connector.
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On the firewall connector, it seems to be the power feed that causes the most problems. I once chased a problem where the meter showed 12v in all the right places, till I tried to start it. It was burning through what connectivity it had at the connector when a load was placed on it. It's why I asked if the lights were going out.
To clean the female plug, strip the insulation of the end of a bit of wire inserted into a drill, and brush it clean.
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This past summer our daily driver suddenly developed a connection break between the battery cells. You bang on the battery and the lights would flicker on and back off.
Bad things will happen if it arcs above the battery acid level inside.
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