Being sorta 'old skool' I just like the sound of the 351 stroker better.  If you 'NEED' all the amenities and modernization of  "the-new-stuff"....just go buy a new one!

Half of the thrill of hot rodd'in is that..... butterflies in the stomach......strange urge to go P a lot .........the sweaty brow even if its 30* outside......the wrinkled brow and short temper when the wife bothers you .......sudden urge to smoke a cigarette(even if you've been quit for 40 years)  or a big wad of Levi Garrett to chew on ....the weird stirring in your groin area .....the double check'in and then check'in again "feeling" you get.......right before you turn the old ignition switch from the ON position......to the START position!!
It would be a shame to not have that feel'in.......just one-more-time .......instead of just handing over a wad of cash to some stranger for something pulled outuva wrecked car somebody died in!   (I just threw that last part in for effect! )
Like MS sez you gotta do what 'trips-you-trigger' (well he didn't say that butt.... always a good place for a worn out clich'e! )

Let us know what you decide.................

Heck-far drive it to the Bash-at-the-Beach this year and just show us!!
6sally6

Last edited by 6sally6 (1/24/2020 10:25 PM)

kardad wrote:

I love my 78 f100, I had a 73 back in high school and have no need for a modern truck as my hot rod. I had my drive train pretty much decided on and while spending too much time on google I ran into these Coyote packages. I like how a Windsor motor fits and ease of working on it. The biggest problem is I’m 54 and work with a bunch of 25-30 year old engineers that have no idea what a carburetor is and keep talking up the modern power plants.

Out of about a dozen motors that I have built, I have had one that went terribly wrong, the machine shop screwed up the line bore and it kept eating main bearings, typically the thrust. I think that just has me a bit spooked.

That's understandable.
I've never had one to go 'terribly worng' butt.....I haven't built but 3 engines too!!
Kinda like when you leave on a long road trip (like a Bash trip) the first hundred miles you can hear EVERY little squeak/rattle/ticking noise there is before you can finally relax(and stop being spooked) and start to enjoy the ride. Same way when firing a new engine!!!!!
6s6
 

kardad wrote:

The only concern I have with the 393, is it relies on everyone and the machine shop doing their job, the manufactures of all the aftermarket parts doing their job, and me catching any issues and not making any mistakes assembling everything. I’m very confident in my abilities, but we are all human.

I'm thinking that since a boatload of  351W strokers have been built, there'd be no worries of getting it right.

A lot of folks use Volvo electric PS pumps when they do Coyote swaps.

**But** unless that engine swap guy offers any type of warranty for the engine, trans, and electrical I'd go with the 351W.

Bearing Bob wrote:

Just for info, I polished my 351w con rods myself, had them magnafluxed, bushed for floating pistons and shot peened for half the cost of new rods.

I must respectfully disagree with that statement.  IME here's what you're looking at cost wise to recondition a set of rods, assuming you clean them, check them for straightness, install the bolts yourself, polish the beams yourself, and weight match them yourself. 

ARP bolts - $73 - Summit
Mag rods - $56 local machine shop
shot peen rods - $40 - local machine shop
grinding/polishing materials - $20 - Harbor Freight
bush rods for floating pins & drill oil holes- $120 - local machine shop
resize big end of the rod - $168 - local machine shop

Total - $477

Much like a set of heavily worked factory iron heads, in the end you still have a stock part that's likely not even as good as a budget set of aftermarket rods.  Sure, you could forgo some of these processes and roll the dice, but honestly, I'm not much of a gambler.  You stand to have $5-$6.5k in this engine.  Connecting rods are literally THE most stressed component of an engine.  Low RPM application or not it just doesn't seem worthwhile to take a risk here. 

Either they cut major corners (no resizing, etc.) or forgot to charge you for something, or its simply getting on to 20 years now and the cost of aftermarket rods are a lot cheaper than they were back then.  I've looked at it several times on several different projects and it never made financial sense.  Machine shops do vary in cost region to region, and even shop to shop, but that might account for at most 20%. 

kardad wrote:

I want to stay as close to 10.0-1 comp as possible, rather less than more, I don't want problems with detonating. 

Run a big snotty idling camshaft and you can get away with 10:1 CR.
Jus say'in
6sal6
 

What is the price difference between forged and hyperutectic?
If you plan on power adders down the road the choice is obvious.