After doing the drop on my uppers my front end dropped more than the described 1/2" to 1".  I'm going to attempt the spring perch move to gain those described advantages and maybe some height.  The springs were already cut before the drop so if the perch move doesn't do the trick then I'm going to get new springs and not mess with spacers.  Spacers may be just fine but I just like as few variables as possible

Muzz 66 wrote:

After doing the drop on my uppers my front end dropped more than the described 1/2" to 1".  I'm going to attempt the spring perch move to gain those described advantages and maybe some height.  The springs were already cut before the drop so if the perch move doesn't do the trick then I'm going to get new springs and not mess with spacers.  Spacers may be just fine but I just like as few variables as possible

Muzz, my recommendation is to move the perches out 3/4", not the one inch.  I just did this on my '65 convertible (after the arning drop lowered my front end way more than was commonly declared) and it came out perfect.  I dithered between the 1" vs 3/4" and went witht he 3/4" in the end.  I am glad I did.  I got just the perfect amount of lift and just the perfect amount of increased muscle in the front end.  I did go with a couple of those aluminum twisty spring spacers, but only on the left side, to correct a sag, I did keep the stock springs.

At the same time I moved UCA's backward on the shafts 1/8" and dialed in 3.25° of positive caster.  It all made for a real sports car feel.  If I had to do all over again I would contemplate moving the arning drop holes back 1/4" instead of the perscribed 1/8th inch and keeping my UCA shafts centered. Either way, it made it easier to dial in the caster.

Last edited by boomyal (4/09/2013 6:43 PM)

boomyal wrote:

Muzz, my recommendation is to move the perches out 3/4", not the one inch.  I just did this on my '65 convertible (after the arning drop lowered my front end way more than was commonly declared) and it came out perfect.  I dithered between the 1" vs 3/4" and went witht he 3/4" in the end.  I am glad I did.  I got just the perfect amount of lift and just the perfect amount of increased muscle in the front end.  I did go with a couple of those aluminum twisty spring spacers, but only on the left side, to correct a sag, I did keep the stock springs.

Thanks! I will take this under advisement.

What Daze says, has worked very well for me, for the past 8 years.
The moving the spring perch out and 6 cyl springs, are some newer ideas. I don't have any personal experience with them.

Tubo

I used the the Mr Gasket aluminum twist in spacers also to gain a full inch of height...They work great ,they have been in now going on four years with -O- problems. Front end is heavy,but can't feel it...BB s code 67 F/B,4 speed, 620 springs,roller perch (by Daze) ,roller Idler arm,Global West spherical lower control arms,1" swaybar, a/c...feels like a sports car with a nice ride.....jj

John wrote:

boomyal wrote:

At the same time I moved UCA's backward on the shafts 1/8" and dialed in 3.25° of positive caster.  It all made for a real sports car feel.  If I had to do all over again I would contemplate moving the arning drop holes back 1/4" instead of the perscribed 1/8th inch and keeping my UCA shafts centered.

Wouldn't locating the upper arm back that far cause interference with the nut on the back side of the tower?

John

are you speaking of the UCA bushing nuts?  If so, you might be right.I is a tad tight back there, especially with the 90° zerk fitting installed.  That is why I said I would "contemplate" moving the whole assy.