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I've installed a rubber vent line from the fuel filler neck that exits on the far end behind the bumper. Works fine but I don't like the one end just open. Is anyone using any sort of flapper, vent valve, etc? There are several on Ebay for cycles, boats, etc.
Any ideas?
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You near a junkyard? The Dodge Caravans of the late 80's early 90's have some sort of plastic vent cap that pushes in to the end of a rubber hose. I always suspected it was a one way vent.
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Funny, I've been looking into this recently as well. I can't find the link now but saw where somebody plumbed it from the filler neck through a charcoal canister they picked up at a wrecking yard. I've seen canisters on Rockauto.com for as low as $30; however, finding a place to mount if may be interesting.
What did you use for a bung on the filler neck? I know I've used fittings in which you drill a hole and then screw two pieces together, but darned if I cannot remember. I was thinking I may end up just welding on a nipple.
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Jeff in GA wrote:
Funny, I've been looking into this recently as well. I can't find the link now but saw where somebody plumbed it from the filler neck through a charcoal canister they picked up at a wrecking yard. I've seen canisters on Rockauto.com for as low as $30; however, finding a place to mount if may be interesting.
What did you use for a bung on the filler neck? I know I've used fittings in which you drill a hole and then screw two pieces together, but darned if I cannot remember. I was thinking I may end up just welding on a nipple.
Please....remove the neck before welding on the nipple. LOL Yeah, that's my plan too, and I also have been thinking about the charcoal canister.
I have the old one from the Linc. TC donor car I'm thinking of mounting it up front, say under the right headlight bucket or maybe under the battery box (that's where Lincoln had it), and re-connecting the canister purge function on the PCM.
BB
Last edited by Bullet Bob (9/03/2013 9:16 PM)
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The problem with welding on a nipple is that then the filler neck won't fit back through the rear panel. It's a close fit. I had a 90 degree tube I had pulled from the bottom of a upper efi intake and drilled a hole in the filler neck for an interference fit. Once I reinstalled the neck, I twisted the tube into place and sealed with Ultra Black.
Now I just need something to put in the other end.
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JamesW wrote:
I've installed a rubber vent line from the fuel filler neck that exits on the far end behind the bumper. Works fine but I don't like the one end just open. Is anyone using any sort of flapper, vent valve, etc? There are several on Ebay for cycles, boats, etc.
Any ideas?
Why not get one of those small plastic fuel filters for small engines and put that on the end? Most of them are small enough that they will fit in the curve of the bumper and you can clamp it to the hose.
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Greg B Where in the Caravan is this vert nipple located? Near gas tank?
Thanks
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Guys, be sure you think about failure modes for this kind of stuff. Also consider crashworthiness. We tend to think of things like "THIS WILL WORK!" and never consider what might happen if it fails, or if the vehicle is in a collision. These kind of mods are great to do to make the car what you want it to be, but just be sure to consider what might happen in a wreck, or what if the part fails.
Be safe!
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MustangSteve wrote:
Guys, be sure you think about failure modes for this kind of stuff. Also consider crashworthiness. We tend to think of things like "THIS WILL WORK!" and never consider what might happen if it fails, or if the vehicle is in a collision. These kind of mods are great to do to make the car what you want it to be, but just be sure to consider what might happen in a wreck, or what if the part fails.
Be safe!
Do you have a recommendation?
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Check out the fuel vent check valve from Pegasus Racing. I have one on all my modified cars. It closes in event of roll over or crash.
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DC wrote:
Check out the fuel vent check valve from Pegasus Racing. I have one on all my modified cars. It closes in event of roll over or crash.
I'm familiar with that type of valve. I'm looking for a valve that is normally closed (to keep the smell out of the garage) but will open upon pressure buildup in the tank.
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Wouldn't a pcv valve at the end of the hose do that, if upright?
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There are air mufflers that would be perfect for this.
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ok so my little assembly didn't work. I opened the garage door this evening and found a nice little puddle of gas under the car where the vent tube exits. All the permatex I'd used to seal the joints was loose and weak. and the tube inserted in the tank filler tube wasn't tight enough.
Back to the drawing board. Have to come up with some type of bung to permanently attach to the filler tube that has a low enough profile to clear the rear panel during installation, and will thread on some sort of fitting. It will also need an EVAP canister to catch the fumes, along with a check valve in case of an wreck/rollover.
Back open to ideas...
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JamesW wrote:
ok so my little assembly didn't work. I opened the garage door this evening and found a nice little puddle of gas under the car where the vent tube exits. All the permatex I'd used to seal the joints was loose and weak. and the tube inserted in the tank filler tube wasn't tight enough.
Back to the drawing board. Have to come up with some type of bung to permanently attach to the filler tube that has a low enough profile to clear the rear panel during installation, and will thread on some sort of fitting. It will also need an EVAP canister to catch the fumes, along with a check valve in case of an wreck/rollover.
Back open to ideas...
How 'bout this, James...
Make a little chunk of brass or maybe a brass 3/8 x 24 nut and file one side so it has a radiused surface that is the same as the ID of the filler tube. Tap the brass chunk/nut to 1/8 pipe then drill a 3/8" hole in the filler and solder the nut to the INSIDE of the filler.
Install the filler, then screw a 1/8 pipe nipple or compression fitting into the brass do-hicky.
No interference installing the filler pipe and a good pipe fitting seal for the vent hose/line.
BB
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James, just read the rest of your post.
One solution for a "check valve" might be to use a 12V solenoid valve...CANP valve...that gets powered from the fuel pump wire off of the Inertia Switch (you are running EFI aren't you). Use the solenoid valve to open the vent line when the FP gets power and close when it don't.... or if the Inertia switch gets tripped.
Man, I gotta write all this down for when I put our 66 back together....
BB
Last edited by Bullet Bob (9/05/2013 9:37 PM)
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found this weld in bung and may try welding this in place. I've flattened the center section of the tube and it has 1/4" clearance now through the rear panel. 
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