Check   the location of the caliper bleed crew. It should be at the top of the caliper. If the left and right are installed on the wrong side and the bleed screw is on the low side no amount of bleeding will purge the air trapped at the top.

Last edited by Rudi (2/28/2020 8:30 PM)

They are correct. Im questioning the rear as this is kinda the way it was when I had 4 drums.
Kit is from kentucky Mustang. 

Looks like Kelsey Hayes type calipers. Does the kit do anything to change the pedal ratio?
Are the rear brakes properly adjusted?

Did you rebuild the rear brakes, too?   If you did not adjust the rear shoes out to the drums, it will exhibit the exact symptoms you are experiencing.

Yes rears were a tad loose, I did a vacuum pump on all 4 corners, even taped on the calipers with a rubber hammer while pumping this morning and checked for leaks again.  then i said lets go out and drive it some more. Pedal seems to be a little firmer, well the more i drive it the better it seams to get. I real thought I should have a rock hard pedal right off the top.  Maybe it is just I am not used to the feel. because when you push on the pedal the car does stop. Giong to drive it some more this week after all it mite have 5 miles on it. We will see where we are then. if I have to I can take it to a shop that did my AC and have them go through them. 

Get the pads bedded in, then see how you like it. I'd consider changing the ratio, and making a drop pushrod to suit. It should help with that first 1-2 inches.

You can’t just change pedal ratio without using components that match the new ratio. That means booster multiplication and master cylinder bore size and pedal ratio all must work together to deliver at least 1,000 psi at the disc brakes.

On bench bleeding the master its not going to get stiff (heh, wait, wrong thread), you aren't building pressure.  You're purging air.  Once the air is gone you're good. 

I'm concerned about the pedal ratio though.  Not sure on the '65 cars, but my '67 uses totally different pedals for power and manual brakes that use different mounting points in the pedal support.  MS, this is your area, what's the deal on the pedals in '65 power vs. manual?

I talked with the tech department with CCP the manufacturer of kit. He asked me how I bleed the system and told me that the pedal is normal for the 65. He said if the play was not doing anything then there was a problem. He also said it will not be like a n.v new car feel. I think I got very good customer service from Kentucky Mustang as the gave me the number after just a couple questions.

CHRIS

TKOPerformance wrote:

The way I heard brake pedal feel explained was the pedal should have 1/3 free travel, 1/3 braking, and 1/3 between max braking and the floor.  I think if you've got that you're good.

Yes I would say that is about what I have kinda. maybe at the pedal, 1" free, 1-1/2" braking and hard 2+" from the floor. the more I drive it the more it seams like it is working well. Its just not the same ratio as new cars. I could just the arm so it is a little closer to the floor, but I need to know first that all is working as it should be. I mite this winter do the change to Steves brake arm mount and booster change over. we will see 

Soon to come, electric brakes.

Brake-by-wire systems have been used in Formula One race cars for years. But  a gradual conversion on production vehicles, similar to the switch from drum brakes to disc brakes, as companies work to reduce costs and refine algorithms.
Brembo is doing resarch on it now.

Last edited by Rudi (3/05/2020 4:56 PM)