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So I went for it and scored a 1992 fox body convertible LH door wiring harness. I plan on installing this in my center console. This way ill have a power lock switch and switches for the side glass and 1/4 glass. Theres a seller on ebay that has the main power window lock wiring feed that goes under the dash. Should i buy it to give me the circuit breakers? This harness also hooks up to the passenger door wiring harness.
Last edited by True74yamaha (3/07/2020 3:06 PM)
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I would be interested to know how you go with this. I have no idea on what this kind of mod involves.
Personally, I tend to shy away from these kinds of mods as I feel it makes the car more complex and I just enjoy the simplicity of the 56 year old technology...
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I have always felt that bootlegging a factory harness from some other car to be way more trouble than buying good, quality wire and making my own. I have power windows and power (Ford Towncar) locks in the Heap. You probably will be ahead to wire in a separate accessory fuse panel to handle the windows and locks. Use a relay that is triggered from the ACC lug on the ign. switch to supply power directly from the battery (solenoid) to the ACC panel. That way you aren't adding a bunch of load to the Ign, switch. or the stock wiring .
BB
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I used Foxbody lock motors and A1 Electric power window kits in my 66, installed about twenty years ago. I used 1977 Cordoba switches grafted into my console. Remote locks. Powered by a $20 ebay module that came with two remotes. All still working great.
Only problem I had was a window motor mount in the driver door broke from fatigue. If using this kit, be sure to use some pooky in the gap between the motor and the door frame to keep the motor’s mass from flexing the bracket every time you shut the door. I welded it back together and it seems to be fine. Still need to go back and add the pookey.
I got tired of having to turn the ignition on to operate the windows, so I went back and wired the windows hot all the time, same as the remote locks.
** pookey **. A/C insulating tape, bondo or rtv or some other moldable stuff that will hold the motor from trying to break its bracket from repeated door slamming. A1Electric could not offer a replacement bracket, only a complete new kit. And one more... the power windows worked ALOT better after I switched over to a 3G alternator.
There is an article with pics on MS website.
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Bullet Bob wrote:
I have always felt that bootlegging a factory harness from some other car to be way more trouble than buying good, quality wire and making my own. I have power windows and power (Ford Towncar) locks in the Heap. You probably will be ahead to wire in a separate accessory fuse panel to handle the windows and locks. Use a relay that is triggered from the ACC lug on the ign. switch to supply power directly from the battery (solenoid) to the ACC panel. That way you aren't adding a bunch of load to the Ign, switch. or the stock wiring .
BB
My thoughts exactly BB.
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My door/trunk lock remotes and window switches are 100%, 30/40 amp. relay operated, up and down, lock and unlock. I did not want to stress the switches and wanted large gauge wires for the window motors, front and rear.
The Font and rear window power units are from A-1 Electric
The module, switches and actuators are from Dakota Digital, relays sourced locally. My remote door /trunk locks are on a separate circuit under the dash key fob operated. I opted not to have the remote window operation
All the manual switches are console mounted and hot with ignition off. Like the newer Mustangs the rear windows actuate in unison, up and down.
I'm certainly not an electrical genius so It took a bunch of brain storm sessions and wire route planning to get the system looking halfast decent.
Other than the size of my ham fists working in the inner door confines, the door mechanism mount was quite easy and only needed a small "L" shaped bracke that bolted to the bottom inside of the door
I slotted the back of o/e trunk lock mechanism so that I could get an small generic lock actuator to pull the latch and pop the trunk lid, it's all mounted inside the rear tail light panel brace.
I have a spare new Dakota Digital remote system for sale if anyone is interested.
Last edited by Rudi (3/08/2020 11:09 AM)
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Top shelf work there Rudi!
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Bullet Bob wrote:
I have always felt that bootlegging a factory harness from some other car to be way more trouble than buying good, quality wire and making my own. I have power windows and power (Ford Towncar) locks in the Heap. You probably will be ahead to wire in a separate accessory fuse panel to handle the windows and locks. Use a relay that is triggered from the ACC lug on the ign. switch to supply power directly from the battery (solenoid) to the ACC panel. That way you aren't adding a bunch of load to the Ign, switch. or the stock wiring .
BB
Awesome thank you. I do have a modern homemade wiring harness with empty spots to allow me to wire in power locks and power windows. As for relays for the motors and the locks, the fuse holders I used are a four gang delphi that can inter lock with extra fuse panels or relays. Now i just need to figure out how to wire in the fox body Dr lock and window switch to make them work with the a1 electric motor kit. For the locks i was going to use fox body actuators. I just need to find a actuator pigtail since they still do not reproduce them.
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Bearing Bob wrote:
Top shelf work there Rudi!
X2, that's a slick setup!
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Rudi wrote:
My door/trunk lock remotes and window switches are 100%, 30/40 amp. relay operated, up and down, lock and unlock. I did not want to stress the switches and wanted large gauge wires for the window motors, front and rear.
The Font and rear window power units are from A-1 Electric
The module, switches and actuators are from Dakota Digital, relays sourced locally. My remote door /trunk locks are on a separate circuit under the dash key fob operated. I opted not to have the remote window operation
All the manual switches are console mounted and hot with ignition off. Like the newer Mustangs the rear windows actuate in unison, up and down.
I'm certainly not an electrical genius so It took a bunch of brain storm sessions and wire route planning to get the system looking halfast decent.
Other than the size of my ham fists working in the inner door confines, the door mechanism mount was quite easy and only needed a small "L" shaped bracke that bolted to the bottom inside of the door
I slotted the back of o/e trunk lock mechanism so that I could get an small generic lock actuator to pull the latch and pop the trunk lid, it's all mounted inside the rear tail light panel brace.
I have a spare new Dakota Digital remote system for sale if anyone is interested.
console and everything looks really nice i appreciate the photos. Do you by chance have any other photos of the power trunk actuator that you installed?
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Sorry no picture but here is a link to where I got them. Princess is a Canada wide chain with stores in most big cities. It is my go-to candy store for a lot of neet stuff, lots of automotive overrun stuff. eg, Many years ago I needed some interior lights for a Boonie Bug that built and they had ones that were for the rear Mustang fastback sail panels, cost a couple of bucks. I see them now as repops from NPD for $40.00USD
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Very cool work Rudi thanks again for the photos and the link
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