My wife Mazda Tribute's headlight kept going out. The clip on one of the wires was lose and was arcing. Had to replace socket due to it was melted and burnt. Hope that helps.

There is no colour remaining. They were cut/removed with just a little frayed copper remaining.

I was hoping someone had a schematic or knowledge on what does what with these Harnesses. 🤷🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️

M1Mustang69 wrote:

There is no colour remaining. They were cut/removed with just a little frayed copper remaining.

I was hoping someone had a schematic or knowledge on what does what with these Harnesses. 🤷🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️

Post a picture of the wiring on the connector in your second picture

Thanks Tim, my bad

Tim, that's what I found as well. It's on the Mustang Instrument cluster circuit page, labelled, 14401 assembly.

So, to the original poster, go online or purchase a wiring diagram and compare it to what's been decsribed. Oh, and help does continue to exist on this forum.

Hey thanks Guys.....this was a tremendous help!!!  I can't figure out why the AMP gauge isn't working (moving at all) when they made 2 new wires plug into the factory harness along the fender, but that's for another day!  I did find an additional cut wire, but thanks to TimC's post with the diagrams I was able to learn it was the lighter!!  (A good source to find constant power from 👍🏻

Thanks again everyone!

Regards,
Jeff
 

HAVING A MELTDOWN.....

I spent a Week taking my time figuring out and custom making A TACH Instrument Cluster with an Original Tach Face.....I finally get around to testing it and I think the only gauge that works (maybe) is the Gasoline.....but not convinced cause the Temp gauge goes to "H" but thats because the engine bay harness isnt installed yet.......

That Being Said, its an after maket 3-WIRE Tach..........the needle bounces when started but thats ALL......I also had the OIL PRESSURE GAUGE hooked up in the center position where the clock would go and the car wouldnt start!........

What I know for certain as discovered with everyones help earlier.........the OIL PRESSURE gauge wires were removed from the harness and re-wired from the fender harness (im assuming thats how it always is????  aside from that, I cant figure out the Tach not working....

IMPORTANT:  Looks like this restoration shop is using the Engine Bay Gauge Harness (wires) to 1 feed the Coil and 2 were combined going to the NEGATIVE SIde of the Coil?????  I can not understand this!?

***on the cluster they had added a small tach to the clock position........Factory Harness White w/Red is going to the Tach GRN wire, Factory Harness RED w/Wht stripe going to Tach RED wire!!!

I CAN NOT figure out what they did and how, all I know Is I cant remove the 2 from the Negative Coil which come from the Gauge Feed.....
 

This is what the resto shop did!



This is what I made and trying to get all factory gauges to work again

I've been trying to follow along on your adventure, time hasn't allowed my to dig very far into what you have going on.
My car has the factory tach cluster and I installed a Painless harness. Painless doesn’t allow for the factory tach cluster!!! I had to do some head scratching myself to make it work, I can relate to what you are going through.
 
You may drive yourself crazy trying to figure out what the last shop or owner did. If you haven’t bought one yet, I would suggest a copy of the electrical diagrams for your car by Jim Osborne. It will be money well spent. If you buy a digital version of the diagrams, they will be printable. You can write, color, modify to your liking for your car.
 
Here are a few things I can help with.  
 

M1Mustang69 wrote:

HAVING A MELTDOWN.....

I spent a Week taking my time figuring out and custom making A TACH Instrument Cluster with an Original Tach Face.....I finally get around to testing it and I think the only gauge that works (maybe) is the Gasoline.....but not convinced cause the Temp gauge goes to "H" but thats because the engine bay harness isnt installed yet.......

 
The wire has to be grounded to make the gauge read. If it moves to H, then something is not right. The hot to your gauges should be 5 VDC fed from the constant volytage unit on the cluster.  

M1Mustang69 wrote:

That Being Said, its an after maket 3-WIRE Tach..........the needle bounces when started but thats ALL......I also had the OIL PRESSURE GAUGE hooked up in the center position where the clock would go and the car wouldnt start!........

 
You should be able to find a wiring diagram to connect your 3 wire tach to whatever your ignition system is.

M1Mustang69 wrote:

What I know for certain as discovered with everyones help earlier.........the OIL PRESSURE gauge wires were removed from the harness and re-wired from the fender harness (im assuming thats how it always is????  aside from that, I cant figure out the Tach not working....

 
Like Tim posted earlier, the yellow with white stripe was the fuel gauge and the red with white stripe was the Temperature gauge.

M1Mustang69 wrote:

IMPORTANT:  Looks like this restoration shop is using the Engine Bay Gauge Harness (wires) to 1 feed the Coil and 2 were combined going to the NEGATIVE SIde of the Coil?????  I can not understand this!?

 
Wire 16, red-green stripe should have went to the coil with the other side going to the distributor. From the drawing supplied by Rocketman’s Classic Cougars, one side of the coil could be doubled up depending on your ignition system.

M1Mustang69 wrote:

***on the cluster they had added a small tach to the clock position........Factory Harness White w/Red is going to the Tach GRN wire, Factory Harness RED w/Wht stripe going to Tach RED wire!!!

I CAN NOT figure out what they did and how, all I know Is I cant remove the 2 from the Negative Coil which come from the Gauge Feed.....
 

M1Mustang69 wrote:

So I figured out What they DID (to a certain extent) but not WHY??

they hacked up the Under Hood Gauge Feed Harness.....cut and combined 2 of the gauge feed wires to make 1 and went to the Positive side of the Coil........the last they attached to the Negative of the Coil!!!!!??????  =======> thats the big mistery, as to why????  the coil gets Ground from the distributor; which is a MSD 8352........

then they butchered the Instrument Harness as Shown to attach the small Clock TACH......WHY?  Tach Green Wire connects right on the Distributor!!!!  Baffling

Question, Can I still use A NEW Hood Gauge Feed Wire to Power the Coil??? 

 

 
You should be able to. You do need to determine what they did with all the rest of the wires. The “C” connector under the hood should have fed the water temp and oil pressure.
 
 
You may want to consider getting your harness back near factory as possible before proceeding with some of the upgrades. A that point, you can document your changes in the book of wiring diagrams you buy. This could save you hours of head scratching in the future. I can say from experience that what is fresh in your mind right now for the wiring will fade in 6 months or less if you have no other issues. Hope it helps.

With you gauge cluster pulled do you have a ground wire from gauge cluster to body ground of the car?

Don't think anything from the new tach or gauge cluster should be going to the positive side of the coil. The Red/green wire is the 9 volt feed to the coil from the pink resister wire. I would thinks a new modern tach would want a full 12 volt feed. Maybe the old tach used this.

From Bolted's drawling, Red from the tach to +12. You mentioned 12 volts to the clock, that would work but is hot all the time. A key switched 12 volts may be better. Tach green wire to coil negative of the coil.

I would really consider what Bolted said and try to get wiring back to original. White/ Red to Oil gauge and RedWhite to Temp gauge. The other end of those wires to their respective sending units.

Any of you guys use Randy from Mid Life Wiring? He refurbed my harness and wired the Autometer gauges. He does outstanding work at reasonable prices.

http://midlifeharness.com/

Brilliant Responses Folks.....this is one of the reasons why I love and recruit so many to this Forum/Website......

I have literally been attempting to restore the cluster and immediately after the HARNESSES to their original condition/state............Hence all this chatter and images and thanks to everyones input i have been quasi successful!........

UPDATE:

I UNDID the 2 gauge wires going to 1, and simply used the Red/Grn wire for the Coil.....Car Runs-----Good Right?  well, after doing this, the TACH stopped???? interesting........So I then checked the "Clock Feed" and it was now Dead!!!???!!!??? 
I cant understand how removing a Gauge Feed (either Sending Unit or Temp Sensor) from being married to the 12v coil feed has somehow disabled the 12v constant to the Clock

So im going to give up on that, maybe someday I will stumble upon it, but till then just find another 12v source for the Tach........Question is, how do I do that under the Dash???  anyone know if 1 available???