You can delete the stock tensioner by using a March Performance Air Conditioning Eliminator Brackets 30080-09 to mount an idler pulley and a March alternator mount #30050-09 351Windsor. The alt mount becomes the belt tensioner. Though the imiage shows mounting the stock tensioner on the A/C eliminator bracket, use an idler pulley there. and DONT route the serpentine as pictured either. Reverse the wrap on crank & WP pulleys so the belt comes down from idler to crank pulley and belt goes over the WP to the Alt pulley, then back to idler.



The largest radiator that will fit between the frame rails is a 26x19 or no more than 27" wide. You are using a drivers side outlet WP, Right ??
The Contour twin fand are 3 1/4 deep, though extra room can be gained by making a custom mount/shroud and setting them diagionally. So that the WP nose fits between the fans.

Tubo

Thanks to everyone for the feed back.  I don't know how to direct replies to each person, so I will list responses to each.
I will try to get some pictures of my delima and try to get them posted.

Tubo--On the March brackets, would I be eliminating the A/C compressor completely?  If so, I don't really want to eliminate the A/C.  I like my A/C, as does my wife.  Also, The radiator I am using bolts up to the original mounting holes so it is approx. 20 inches wide.  I was wondering if the end of the water pump wouldn't fit between the fans.  If I put the fans in front of the radiator and make them a pusher fan, where would I put the condensor for the A/C?  I currently have the battery mounting in the original location.  I may need to relocate it.

Jeff in Ga.--  I have the 90deg. thermo hsg. now. I have only 3/4 inch between the end of the radiator inlet nipple and the face of the tensioner.  I can't move the motor back any since the bellhousing will hit the firewall.  I have the Ron Morris adjustible motor mounts that would allow everything to slide back, but it would mess up alot of other areas ie rear transmission mount and possibly exhaust header rubbing issues.

Yes, I can move the inlet over about 3 inches and get clearance.  I am trying to send some pictures.  I'll see what happens.  Thanks

Last edited by retired 65 (9/05/2013 3:41 PM)

retired 65 wrote:

Tubo--On the March brackets, would I be eliminating the A/C compressor completely?  If so, I don't really want to eliminate the A/C.  I like my A/C, as does my wife.  Also, The radiator I am using bolts up to the original mounting holes so it is approx. 20 inches wide.  I was wondering if the end of the water pump wouldn't fit between the fans.  If I put the fans in front of the radiator and make them a pusher fan, where would I put the condensor for the A/C? 

I've always thought the stock 65-66 radiator was under-sized for a 289, much less a stroked 351. I'd sell the 20" to someone with a stock Mustang and get at least a 24x19 aluminum radiator, 26x19 still better. Yes you'd need to open up your radiator shroud. Which will prolly solve all your cooling problems.
Hehheh, I can see why you might want to keep the A/C. It makes things easier that way too, you could just use the March alternator mount, the A/C pulley would become the idler then.
The nose of the WP will fit between the Contour fans, Plz dont use them as pushers, pullers are much more efficent. You you don't have to move your condensor. Contour fan shroud dimensions are 15 3/8x26 3/8. Which is why I suggest a custom diagional mount shroud. Can be easily built by a local home A/C duct maker. Yup I have a set of Contour fans on the shelf.

Tubo

Thanks everyone for the input.  I am really surprised I got the pictures to go through.  NOW if I can only remember how I did it for the next time.  Anyway, the alum. radiator I have installed from Fluidyne, is special one they say is for a stroked motor and they assured me it would handle the 475 hp this motor is supposed to put out.  It bolts in the original hole in the core support.  The flange that the radiator is bolted to potrudes in toward the motor and thus creates the 1/2 space at the top of the core support per the picture  .I think I can get the problem of the top radiator hose by relocating the inlet over 3 inches, but the main problem now is how do I cool it via fans?  If I stay with this radiator, which I haven't had much luck selling stuff at the swap meet, will the Contour fans, can I get the fans to work in the 20 inch area I have?

You can always cut the core support and fabricate mounts to reinforce and move the radiator forward.  That may affect your AC evaporator

That is a way skinny area to put any sort of fans...even twin offset fans.

 

Okay! I think I know how I messed up on gathering parts for the install.  I found some literature on the overall length of a 302 and a 351.  It puts them both at 27 1/2 inch with a footnote; this is with short  y serpentine water pump from Ford Racing (M-8501-A50).  Otherwise, add approx. 1 1/2 inches.  I checked mine and it is approx. 29 inches from the back of the block where the bellhsg. bolts to the end of the block to the end of the water pump.  27 1/2 plus the 1 1/2 for the regular serpintine pump is 29 inches.  In my effort to get all the pulleys aligned with the stock serpentine acces. drive set-up, I had to use the stock serpentine water pump.  The question now is: is the serpentine set-up from a 5.0 motor going to change anything where I can use the short water pump or do I have to go with a March Performance serpentine set-up?  I don't have any problem buying a short waterpump, but the way it seems, the pulleys won't line up.  If I have to change to the 5.0 serpentine set-up, does anyone have it?  I think I can get fans behind the radiator if I have the additional 1 1/2 inch.
Thanks