A dent in the steering column will provide more switch clearance.  Or, try loosening the four booster studs, pull up on the booster, then retighten.  Position of everything is a compromise to get the best pedal ratio.

If you want to dent the column tube, mark where it needs to be percussion engineered, then rotate the tube 180 degrees and use a ballpeen hammer on it, then rotate it back in place.

Another option is a pressure activated switch like the 65 used, which eliminates the pedal pin switch.

I found that the brake lights wouldn't activate until you really stood on the pedal. With the revised pedal ratio, it wasn't travelling far enough to activate. If yours is workin as it should, its fine.

Last edited by 50vert (3/22/2020 3:27 PM)

I ran thru this too,I found if you don't change the brake switch (manual brakes switch vs power brake switch) you
really have to stand on the brake pedal (manual switch) with a power booster to get the brake lights to come on.
If you press the brakes that hard to light up the bulbs you maybe thru the windshield. It dawned on me that 95%
of my stops I had no brake lights. As MS said, when I swapped out the brake switch, the power switch has a much 
lighter spring.       mustang stu